R60 Mud Flaps Installation
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
I gather the plastic "rivets" that came with the front set would be installed where the stainless steel ones were installed? Do the holes that need to be drilled need to go through metal, or just into the plastic around the fender?
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: East Hampton, NY
Brad,
I replaced the plastic rivets that I removed with the plastic rivets supplied with the mud flaps.
On the front mud flaps where I drilled for the stainless screws IIRC it was sheet metal that I drilled through.
Hope that answers your questions.
Best,
--Hobie
I replaced the plastic rivets that I removed with the plastic rivets supplied with the mud flaps.
On the front mud flaps where I drilled for the stainless screws IIRC it was sheet metal that I drilled through.
Hope that answers your questions.
Best,
--Hobie
4th Gear
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 362
Likes: 0
From: Rocky mountains
I did the install of the flaps on my CM and I don't recall hitting any metal. I'm pretty sure I would have remembered that. I also remember thinking that even just using the existing fasteners on the car are more than enough to hold the flaps in place. YMMV. Good luck!
I hate those plastic rivets!! I did mine today and it went pretty fast except for getting those stupid plastic rivets in. I kept bending the insert that expands the rivet. Other than that, it was a cakewalk. I just used the supplied hardware and didn't notice drilling into any metal. I thought there was going to be metal on the uppermost hole on the fronts, but the drill didn't seem to hit anything after the plastic.
Hobie, thanks for the writeup. It ended up being really straightforward, but it's nice to have something to consult when you're unsure.
Hobie, thanks for the writeup. It ended up being really straightforward, but it's nice to have something to consult when you're unsure.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: East Hampton, NY
Chrunck, I'm glad to share some information and help out.
I agree with Rktcyntst that the existing fasteners would probably suffice.
And to Brad in Ontario, I live on the water and between the salt on the road in the winter and the marine environment 24/7/365 it seems everything rusts.
When I drilled the holes in the front wheel well it certainly went through metal. No doubt about it. I shot some clear silicon in the hole and applied some to the threads on the screws and in they went.
Cheers~
--Hobie
I agree with Rktcyntst that the existing fasteners would probably suffice.
And to Brad in Ontario, I live on the water and between the salt on the road in the winter and the marine environment 24/7/365 it seems everything rusts.
When I drilled the holes in the front wheel well it certainly went through metal. No doubt about it. I shot some clear silicon in the hole and applied some to the threads on the screws and in they went.
Cheers~
--Hobie
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: The Kootenays, BC, Canada
Thanks for the writeup! I did mine about a month and a half ago, and gapped on the thank you - your writeup helped me on a few spots.
I ended up doing it without taking any wheels off, just by contorting myself and using the tools I have - took a little longer, but I didn't have a proper spot to jack up the car. I didn't hit any metal either, and used the supplied hardware - solid! The plastic rivets need the layers of materials they are going through to be pulled together in order for the peg to be pushed in properly.
I ended up doing it without taking any wheels off, just by contorting myself and using the tools I have - took a little longer, but I didn't have a proper spot to jack up the car. I didn't hit any metal either, and used the supplied hardware - solid! The plastic rivets need the layers of materials they are going through to be pulled together in order for the peg to be pushed in properly.
2nd Gear
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
what you do is prior to screwing the guard on, pull a wee bit of the red strip protecting the tape down a bit and fold over so you can see it once the guard is placed. Then screw in the flaps, then once you get the flaps screwed in(and you have previously cleaned the area with the plastic softner they provide), simply pull on the red strip and push hard to seal the flap plastic to the wheel arch plastic.
Neutral
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Just finished installing the rear flaps. Found that the biggest problem was loosening the lugs, as they seemed to be very much over-tightened from the factory. Actually had to take it to the local tire dealer to get them loosened. Once the wheels were off, about 20 minutes per side.
I've attached a scan of the Install Instructions from the dealer.
Cheers!
I've attached a scan of the Install Instructions from the dealer.
Cheers!
3rd Gear
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 254
Likes: 0
From: Toronto, ON
I recommend Beau's Lug Tread, but it is a microbrewery near Ottawa, ON. Darn tasty stuff.
Neutral
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Looks like a must taste brew, I sent them a email to see if they will ship me a case, otherwise a really good excuse for a road trip!
Also advice to anyone installing the rear mud flaps, attach the bottom most screw (the vertical one) second, otherwise it is a real pain to line up after you button up the others.
Lovin' this car!
Peace
Also advice to anyone installing the rear mud flaps, attach the bottom most screw (the vertical one) second, otherwise it is a real pain to line up after you button up the others.
Lovin' this car!
Peace
2nd Gear
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
do most put on both front and rear?
one MA told me that I should just order the front to portect the side and the back doesnt matter.
As I read this and instructions I feel like it was just away to charge me labor for something that is easy (front flaps) while avoiding the more difficult rear flaps. I feel I could do the front myself, but would need to have a shop to do the rear as it involves the tire removal.
one MA told me that I should just order the front to portect the side and the back doesnt matter.
As I read this and instructions I feel like it was just away to charge me labor for something that is easy (front flaps) while avoiding the more difficult rear flaps. I feel I could do the front myself, but would need to have a shop to do the rear as it involves the tire removal.
Neutral
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
The car does look fine with only front mud flaps and in my opinion the rear flaps are very good looking and balance the overall look of the car. If your looking to keep the car clean in the rain the front flaps are very effective while the rear flaps seem to just keep the spray down from the rear wheels which is somewhat considerate.
2. Car starts itself
3. Car decides to go for a drive; doesn't realize you're underneath
4. Trouble!
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA
Thanks for such an informative post - I just bought the front mud flaps for my CMS4 and this will help a LOT!
I purchased a set of front and rear mud flaps for $95 delivered on e-bay from a Mini dealer in NJ. Had them in a few days.
The front pair were a breeze to install since you can turn the wheels right or left to get to the 8MM mounting screws.
There is a 1/4" strip of high adhesive attached to the mud flaps so I wiped down the area with a clean rag soaked with acetone. I held the mud flaps in place by hand first and used a sharp pencil to lightly mark the outline of where the mudflaps would sit so I knew where to wipe the area with acetone.
On the front mud flaps there are also (3) extra screws that need to be installed beyond the (2) factory 8MM 6 point screws that need to be removed and reinstalled.
I pre-drilled the holes for the new screws. The second one down from the top seemed to go through metal so I also put a dab of silicon on the threads to prevent corrosion. I used #10 x 1/2" stainless screws and washers. I didn't use any of the hardware that came with the mud flaps except for (2) of the plastic rivets for the rear mud flaps.
The rear mud flaps were a bit more of a PIA since there are 2 plastic rivets on each side that need to be pulled out and thrown in the trash.
One is all the way at the top of the rear mud flap and the other is all the way at the bottom under the vehicle.
I replaced the top plastic rivet with one that came with the mud flaps but on the bottom one I decided to drill out the hole on the mounting bracket to 1/4" and use a 1/4 x 1 1/4" stainless bolt with stainless washers and a stainless nylon lock nut.
I had to pull the rear wheels off to get at all the mounting screws. You could probably get away without having to pull the rear wheels off to install the 2 extra screws and it would be ok. But I have the tools and the time and my nature is to just do everything right.
If you decide to pull the rear wheels off you'll need to torque them down to 140 Nm (103.3 Ft/Lb) in a star pattern with a 1/2" torque wrench and a 17MM socket and extension. I started by blocking the wheel and then applying 40 Nm to each nut then increased it in 40Mn increments to 120Nm then the final 20Nm more to 140Nn before I lowered the vehicle.
I'd say it took about 2 hours to complete the installation at my own pace nursing a couple of broken ribs and a few of beers along the way.
Comments below each photo
Loosen and remove the 2 black 8MM screws from the front wheel well
Front Mud Flap installed with factory black 8MM screws and (2) #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws and Stainless washers with a dab of clear silicon to the threads.
There is also a screw up underneath the front mud flap that needs to be pre-drilled and installed.
Next the rear Mud Flap installation below.
Jack up your CM from the jacking point and remove the rear wheels one at a time
At the top is a plastic rivet that needs to be pried out with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. Replace it with one that comes with the mud flaps.
There are also (2) black 8MM 6 point screws that need to be removed and reinstalled. Plus (2) new #10 x 1/2" S/S screws and washers. You can use the hardware supplied if you wish. I always opt to go with stainless since I live in a marine environment.
Under the rear mud flap is another connection point. This comes from the factory with a nylon rivet that also needs to be pried out with a screwdriver and pair of pliers.
I opted to drill it out to 1/4" and install a 1 1/14" stainless through bolt, stainless washers and a stainless nylon lock nut instead of re-installing a nylon rivet that came with the rear mud flaps.
Rear through bolt looking upwards.
Front mud flaps installed
Rear mud flaps installed.
I'll be more than happy to answer any installation questions you may have via PM.
All the best to my fellow CM owners
.
The front pair were a breeze to install since you can turn the wheels right or left to get to the 8MM mounting screws.
There is a 1/4" strip of high adhesive attached to the mud flaps so I wiped down the area with a clean rag soaked with acetone. I held the mud flaps in place by hand first and used a sharp pencil to lightly mark the outline of where the mudflaps would sit so I knew where to wipe the area with acetone.
On the front mud flaps there are also (3) extra screws that need to be installed beyond the (2) factory 8MM 6 point screws that need to be removed and reinstalled.
I pre-drilled the holes for the new screws. The second one down from the top seemed to go through metal so I also put a dab of silicon on the threads to prevent corrosion. I used #10 x 1/2" stainless screws and washers. I didn't use any of the hardware that came with the mud flaps except for (2) of the plastic rivets for the rear mud flaps.
The rear mud flaps were a bit more of a PIA since there are 2 plastic rivets on each side that need to be pulled out and thrown in the trash.
One is all the way at the top of the rear mud flap and the other is all the way at the bottom under the vehicle.
I replaced the top plastic rivet with one that came with the mud flaps but on the bottom one I decided to drill out the hole on the mounting bracket to 1/4" and use a 1/4 x 1 1/4" stainless bolt with stainless washers and a stainless nylon lock nut.
I had to pull the rear wheels off to get at all the mounting screws. You could probably get away without having to pull the rear wheels off to install the 2 extra screws and it would be ok. But I have the tools and the time and my nature is to just do everything right.
If you decide to pull the rear wheels off you'll need to torque them down to 140 Nm (103.3 Ft/Lb) in a star pattern with a 1/2" torque wrench and a 17MM socket and extension. I started by blocking the wheel and then applying 40 Nm to each nut then increased it in 40Mn increments to 120Nm then the final 20Nm more to 140Nn before I lowered the vehicle.
I'd say it took about 2 hours to complete the installation at my own pace nursing a couple of broken ribs and a few of beers along the way.
Comments below each photo
Loosen and remove the 2 black 8MM screws from the front wheel well
Front Mud Flap installed with factory black 8MM screws and (2) #10 stainless steel sheet metal screws and Stainless washers with a dab of clear silicon to the threads.
There is also a screw up underneath the front mud flap that needs to be pre-drilled and installed.
Next the rear Mud Flap installation below.
Jack up your CM from the jacking point and remove the rear wheels one at a time
At the top is a plastic rivet that needs to be pried out with a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. Replace it with one that comes with the mud flaps.
There are also (2) black 8MM 6 point screws that need to be removed and reinstalled. Plus (2) new #10 x 1/2" S/S screws and washers. You can use the hardware supplied if you wish. I always opt to go with stainless since I live in a marine environment.
Under the rear mud flap is another connection point. This comes from the factory with a nylon rivet that also needs to be pried out with a screwdriver and pair of pliers.
I opted to drill it out to 1/4" and install a 1 1/14" stainless through bolt, stainless washers and a stainless nylon lock nut instead of re-installing a nylon rivet that came with the rear mud flaps.
Rear through bolt looking upwards.
Front mud flaps installed
Rear mud flaps installed.
I'll be more than happy to answer any installation questions you may have via PM.
All the best to my fellow CM owners
.
3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 291
Likes: 2
From: San Diego Vegas Kihei
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA
I thought the same thing about only doing the fronts and not the backs and only bought the front set and installed. After the easy installation and the nice custom fit I decided to order the backs - had them sitting on the ffront porch when I got home today - Thanks FED-EX
Now to get them installed tomorrow before we head out for a 3000 mile road trip through Yellowstone and Mt. Rushmore.
Side note - Question? What is the posted speed limit in Montana??
5th Gear
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,033
Likes: 1
From: SF Bay Area
The fun part was entering the state on two-lane headed toward interstate...the posted limits kept going up..and up...and up...
"The speed limit is in fact 75 on the interstate and 70 on local highways (two lane) one lane in each direction. Trucks are supposed to go slower but don't."
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, WA
Fantastic driving around Yellowstone and in Montana.
The fun part was entering the state on two-lane headed toward interstate...the posted limits kept going up..and up...and up...
"The speed limit is in fact 75 on the interstate and 70 on local highways (two lane) one lane in each direction. Trucks are supposed to go slower but don't."
The fun part was entering the state on two-lane headed toward interstate...the posted limits kept going up..and up...and up...
"The speed limit is in fact 75 on the interstate and 70 on local highways (two lane) one lane in each direction. Trucks are supposed to go slower but don't."
I think we will have to see how the "sport" button works on the CMS4.
We can't wait to spend two weeks on the road with our MINI!!!!!
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Just finished installing...
Thanks Hobie for the original post over a year ago. It was very helpful and gave me confidence to do this simple DIY project. I also printed out the pdf that talisanman provided and followed it step by step. For those thinking of doing this project, Go For It. I was quoted over $150 from the dealer and it is definitely something everyone can do. Here are a couple of notes.
There are plastic "rivets" that you need to push through then hammer the thin plastic insert that expands the rivet and locks it in. The plastic insert will most likely get bent out of shape. (Although for me it was only the front flaps that did so.)
Here's a tip: Mine came with the inserts halfway out. Put the insert as far into the rivet that will still allow you to push the rivet into the hole. That way when you hammer them, the insert will be more sturdy and less likely to get bent out of shape. If they do get bent out of shape, pull the whole rivet out, take the insert out, flip it so the "out of shape" section is inside the rivet and you now get a second chance to cleanly hammer the insert into the rivet. I think it still expands the rivet and does it's job.
Second note: the pdf shows a rear mudflap that only has five holes. Mine came with six. The one it does not show is the top one where the plastic rivet goes. I'm sure you'll figure it out but it took me a while to line up the mudflap thinking the first hole was lower.
Third note: I did remove the rear tire for the install. Initially, I was thinking this would be good for me to experience changing the tire under a controlled environment in case I get a flat and need to change it myself. Then it dawned on me that if I got a flat, I have no spare and would have to call roadside assistance.
Good luck to any future DIY mudflappers.
There are plastic "rivets" that you need to push through then hammer the thin plastic insert that expands the rivet and locks it in. The plastic insert will most likely get bent out of shape. (Although for me it was only the front flaps that did so.)
Here's a tip: Mine came with the inserts halfway out. Put the insert as far into the rivet that will still allow you to push the rivet into the hole. That way when you hammer them, the insert will be more sturdy and less likely to get bent out of shape. If they do get bent out of shape, pull the whole rivet out, take the insert out, flip it so the "out of shape" section is inside the rivet and you now get a second chance to cleanly hammer the insert into the rivet. I think it still expands the rivet and does it's job.
Second note: the pdf shows a rear mudflap that only has five holes. Mine came with six. The one it does not show is the top one where the plastic rivet goes. I'm sure you'll figure it out but it took me a while to line up the mudflap thinking the first hole was lower.
Third note: I did remove the rear tire for the install. Initially, I was thinking this would be good for me to experience changing the tire under a controlled environment in case I get a flat and need to change it myself. Then it dawned on me that if I got a flat, I have no spare and would have to call roadside assistance.
Good luck to any future DIY mudflappers.