When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First post .... and the normal plea for merciful help ...
1st GearNew members: make an initial post and introduce yourself as you shift from Neutral to First Gear. Current members: meet some of the new members.
First post .... and the normal plea for merciful help ...
Good Afternoon.
Somebody please remind me how I took possession of this automobile ... YIKES!!!
2007 Mini Cooper Base Coupe / R56 / N12
It was my daughter's car, but, due to a crack in the thermostat housing she overheated it around Christmastime last year. I replaced the thermostat housing, but there were obviously some problems created by the mishap.
Took it to a friend who is a service manager at an (American car manufacturer) dealership, but said he was scared of nothing. I like him. I trust him. But this car is crazy!!! (Mini dealerships are 2.5-3 hours away!)
I said I took it to him ..... well, that was at the end of January! .... now, pretty close to nine months ago.
Anyway, a problem with the head. Found a rebuilt one. Replaced it. Wouldn't start. Replaced the solenoid on the front of the engine, as it didn't check out.
(Honestly, this sounds like a project only taking a few days, but has been months!!!!)
Anyway .... somewhere along the line they got it running. I drove it home one evening, back to work the next day .... then it wouldn't start that evening. They had to haul it back over there.
Anyway, we keep getting this code P105C .... Control Motor Tight .... and THAT'S ALL the info we can come up with.
He had the car transported to a Mini dealer at his expense, but they proved to be fools.
Found out that I needed to get the Bentley manual, got it, but still not seeing this exact symptom addressed.
I'm having to suppose that the "Control Motor" .... the Valvetronic Motor .... the Eccentric Shaft Actuator are all the same thing ....
There are instructions in the manual for how to remove the motor, but not as explicit as I would like, considering it won't run.
He finally realized that he could screw the valvetronic motor in all the way (hex, on the back of the motor) and the thing would fire up and purr like a kitten. But kill the engine and it won't start again. What happened? The valvetronic motor can be screwed in again, and if fires right up and purrs like a kitten ....
The only info I can find for a ECU/ECM reset on this model is to put in the key, push the start/stop button without putting my foot on the brake. Hoping that in that process that it will "learn" that position and sweep. So far, I cannot tell if that process is happening or not.
I know that there are ways to check the different components on most engines ... like alternators, battery, etc .... but is there a way to test this valvetronic motor to see if it is functioning properly .... obviously it is doing something. Or, what signals the motor on how to operate?
Anyway, I am sure glad you all are here, and although I've been pouring through this site for info, I'm getting desperate, and he's getting discouraged.
Welcome to NAM. This is the introduction section of the forum so you may not get a very good response to your question. The crack in the thermostat is common unfortunately. Usually it starts as a hairline and pools on top of the transmission. The Bentley Manual will definitely come in use for the future, so it was still a good purchase. Try posting up in this section of the forum here for a better response to your issue. I hope you get it sorted. Good luck.
The thermostat housing was an adventure, and, for the life of me, I have no clue why the engine was designed to make it impossible to see what you're doing when hooking up that pipe across the back of the engine .... : D
The solenoid was replaced early on in this adventure. It needed to be replaced.
The second item is where the symptom is. The code (P105C) only states VVT Control Motor Tight, and at this point I can only discern that the photo above depicts the "control motor".
(Mounted) You can screw it in with a hex wrench and it will fire right up. It may even start several times in a row. But go back to it when you think about it and it will not start. And it still throws up the code. You can screw it back in and it starts right up.
So, not sure, A) what the proper ECM reset is .... read (several times, online) about a reset that starts with pushing on the odometer stem, but I think that is for the R53 engine.
I could not find the proper sequence in the Bentley manual, but thought I'd read that you put the key fob in and push start, without depressing the brake pedal (this is an automatic) and let it go through its sequence to relearn everything. Tried that.
Then I read somewhere else about stomping on the gas pedal 10 times and shaking a rooster's feather at it four and a half times ... (or was it squeeze a newts tail until it screamed?) .... DID NOT try any of this .... yet.
B) Not sure if it's in the control motor or in a signal that it is/is not receiving from somewhere else.
You can try the battery terminal and leave it off for a while. Most values are stored by the ECU and trans computer. A local MINI dealership can do the reset, you need to call around to another one and let them know it needs reset.
What do you have to have to scan (INPA/DIS/ISTA) or program this Mini ... ? I mean is it affordable? or just something that a BMW/Mini shop can afford?
Going to search thread (should have done this before posting question)
Last edited by tnoiset; 10-29-2015 at 02:25 PM.
Reason: Going to post it as a new thread (or search other threads before posting.
Anytime you use the software, you'll need a subscription to BMWTIS.com. The hardware you'd need to purchase directly from BMW. There are various scan tools out there that will read faults. Autologic is by far the best, aftermarket tool, which will do programming without a BMW subscription, but they do have a small yearly subscription fee $1000 or so. If that tool at $6000 is too expensive, there are various bootleg ISTA laptop based tools that will read faults. To program (ISTA-P) you will need a pass through tool such as the I-COM or similar hooked up to a laptop which will program your car albeit very slowly over the internet. It may be a better investment for you to utilize a MINI indy shop that has this software already.
Thank You for the info .... Kinda scary, and sounds like a road trip (on the back of a flatbed) may be in order .... no Mini dealers within 2+ hours, and seems none of the locals care to make the investment or care to fool with them ... I guess I'm finding out why.
P code = P1025 / MINI FC = 0x285E - VVT-Self-Learning Function No Positions Stored (Bank 1)
Don't see much out there on the internet about this code for MINI unfortunately. Did you try to clear it and see if it comes back?
Yes, although we do not have the BMW tools to "do it right".
The motor is in there, and we've disconnected the battery for an attempted reset; we've put the key fob in and pushed start without pressing the brake pedal. You can hear things going on, but no "learning" is either happening, or is not being stored anyway.
The deal is over two hours away, and is probably scratching his head every day, wondering why we haven't shown up with it yet ... : D but I'm not the one making the decision on that yet.
You can rotate the hex screw all the way, do the dry run with the key fob, it starts right up. Kill the engine, and it won't start, or even hit, at all. Same code. Then you go back and turn the screw again and it fires up.
I'm just trying to eliminate/discern whether it is a part problem or a programming problem .... and if a "programming problem", if it is something that can be done here.
Please, just say, "Take it to the dealer!!! We'll pay for your gas!!!"
This might be a dealer case and rescan. I would talk to several MINI dealerships if you have one or buy another new part and toss it in. Personally I would get the part and try it. Then go to the dealer, they can do a full scan to see if its a malfunction in the wire or part of a bigger problem.
Yes, although we do not have the BMW tools to "do it right".
The motor is in there, and we've disconnected the battery for an attempted reset; we've put the key fob in and pushed start without pressing the brake pedal. You can hear things going on, but no "learning" is either happening, or is not being stored anyway.
The deal is over two hours away, and is probably scratching his head every day, wondering why we haven't shown up with it yet ... : D but I'm not the one making the decision on that yet.
You can rotate the hex screw all the way, do the dry run with the key fob, it starts right up. Kill the engine, and it won't start, or even hit, at all. Same code. Then you go back and turn the screw again and it fires up.
I'm just trying to eliminate/discern whether it is a part problem or a programming problem .... and if a "programming problem", if it is something that can be done here.
Please, just say, "Take it to the dealer!!! We'll pay for your gas!!!"
: D
Well, it seems you're still in good spirits through all of this, which is good. Not having everything needed, it may be time to throw the white flag. Let me know what you dig up if you decide to keep digging a bit further and I'll try my best hand at helping. Maybe try updating your other thread too and see if one of these great NAM MINI maniacs might have an idea for you.
10-26-2015, 02:03 PM
Well, it seems you're still in good spirits through all of this, which is good. Not having everything needed, it may be time to throw the white flag. Let me know what you dig up if you decide to keep digging a bit further and I'll try my best hand at helping. Maybe try updating your other thread too and see if one of these great NAM MINI maniacs might have an idea for you.
