I had a GM before so I got used to the amber running lights. It'll probably look a bit odd but the only way to know for sure is to give it a try. But I'll post pics.

 

Got my amber led's today:

Before:


After:


Headlamps on:


With Fogs:


Just Fogs:


Just Eyelids:

 

That works really well with that color combo. No bulbout right?

Hey how did you get your fogs on with no headlight?

 

Thanks!

No bulb out, although the driver side light wiggles loose occasionally. Any thoughts on keeping it in there?

 

a dab a silcone from home depot should work

 

Cool I'll give that a try then! I'm seriously considering updating all my bulbs to LEDs but I haven't quite decided yet.

 

I did everything except the brake lights and the map lights (and of course the headlights and fogs). All other lights in the car are LED. If I were going to do it again I would skip the turnsignals. I love the stealth look when off, the instant on, the brightness and the coloring is really nice too but finding a resistor combo that will give you a regular flash rate and eliminate the bulbout is just too hard to find. The answer may actually be some kind of RC network which I do not have the patience to figure out. All the interior lights are easy to do and look good and no worries about bulbouts.

 

So I ordered these with the promise from the ebay guy they would work or money back...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_3678wt_1014

hopefully it's good to go. do the lenses on the plate lamps just pop off with a flat head screw driver to pry them gently?

 

Let us know how it goes. After a year of doing this I have changed my tune. Avoid the cheaper ebay LED's I had great luck up front but after a while they go out or cause a bulbout as they slowly die and get dimmer. The higher end LED's (from LED Automotive) work like I just installed them yesterday in my JCW. But the Clubman seems to be more sensitive. The eyelids throw bulbouts and the plate lights seem to burn out regularly. It seems like a heat problem so i tried using smaller SMD element LED's but I had the same problem. Looks like it simply boils down to quality. On my Clubman I cant find a cheap T10 that will work in the license plate that will last more than a week. Anyone else had this problem? I am using error free LED's and yes there is no error but there is no light either! I cant get anything to work in the eyelid without a bulbout either. The answer is use a resistor up there, may be the same story in the rear. I am inclined to keep the clubman stock after all these problems (or just go to LED automotive and bite the bullet).


UPDATE: LED Automotive doesn't have a T10 solution. I burned out two more this week so that's it. I had some extra standard ebay 9 SMDs laying around. They look and work fantastic except for the bulbout waring. I'm going to try the resistor trick and report back. 36 ohm 2 watt should do the trick. I will install it in the wiring away from plastic. Should work great.

 

i hope they work...
did you try that type i posted?
i got some others for inside that were cheap but not worried too much about those as they were really cheap and no bulb out drama.

for eyelids i got these...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT


you think i'm wasting my time?

 

Sorry for the huge delay. My money is on those 8 SMD's first of all not fitting and somehow if you get them in blowing out, sorry to say. A 26 SMD wont fit and that looks wider than a 26. On your first post those festoon bulbs have resistors. Those are going to overheat the LED's and make them turn yellow / green color. The Clubman uses a T-10 for the plate, which I explained those challenges above in my update.

The LED Automotive is cost competitive with that ebay error free festoon for the cooper. They simply have enough LEDs to pull just the right current to avoid a bulbout. The color does not change and they last.

It has been a while so let us know how it went.

 

Got those and at about 5-6 weeks. No errors and looking good. Same with the plate bulbs.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrcsh6
zeus_group
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT


I ordered a set for my R53 license plate lights (and some extras ) from this outfit, we'll see how it goes.

 

Deleted... sorry I realized this link was for up to 08

 

Any updates on these?

I bought this before - http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-CANBUS-T...item3a6b76f1a4 - and it's COMPLETE garbage. I guess $1 doesn't get you very much so not much to complain about, but the lights flicker and throw bulb out warnings all the time.

I'm not concerned with bulb out warnings, as they can easily be coded away with INPA/NCS, but I _do_ want something that doesn't flicker and go crazy.

Any thoughts on the links above, or any other suggestions?

 

My friend told me MINI R56 License plate lamps are exactly the same as any BMW 07+ 3 Series lights (E90 E91 and E92).

Maybe you can try looking ones for BMW.

 

Ch28Kid,
You are absolutely right! The festoons for the R56 are the same as the festoons for BMW. The ones I am using actually are for BMW.

You guys with R53's don't waste money on error free LED's! The R53 does not monitor bulbouts. The .99 cent ones work just as good in that application. No matter which ones you get on the R53, be prepared for a flashing light show and they will stay on after you turn the car off for a while. The computer is sending really low voltage pulses to them. The LEDs are so efficient they can light up almost to full brightness. No need to worry about consuming current because your incandescent bulbs were actually drawing more current while this was going on.

Now my next mod. I already have LED back up lights. They are 68 SMD 1156 LED's, cost me like $5.00 if that much. They need resistors installed in parallel or the computer will not even send voltage to them. Well they are bright when viewing them (brighter than stock for sure), but while in the car trying to back up they do not illuminate very well. Neither do the stock lights so nothing lost. The newest buzz are these 7Watt Cree LED's that have a projector lens built in. These are supposed to be bright enough to illuminate and also give you some prismatic effects. It should look good while off too with the anodized heat sink. plan on using resistors (6 ohm 50 watt in parallel). http://www.ebay.com/itm/260909843430?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1423.l2649

 

We sell HID and exterior & interior LEDs

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...esign-com.html

The one you found is the replica it will not last long. The CREE LED ONLY comes with 5W for now. Those might be the HI-POWER LED and not real CREE. The original CREE LED projector bulbs was designed by JLC as you see in the picture below, there is "JLC" engrave on the bulb and they ONLY comes with metal color. no red, black or blue

<<Real JLC CREE LED bulbs unlike CHEAP CHINA HIGH POWER LED knock off!!!>>