Suspension Bilstein or Koni opinions
#27
someone help me please! and is it true that there are three settings that you can place the koni yellows? one is high, mid, and low?
#28
I think there's more than 3. Isn't like 6 or 7 if not more? But basically, the higher you go, the stiffer and harder the valving.
#29
I'm sorry i asked the question incorrectly. are there three different perch settings, so that the springs will sit higher or lower on the shocks themselves, therefore giving the car an extra drop or not such an extreme drop?
#31
#32
Revisiting this thread for hopefully some more opinions, specifically comparing Koni Yellow vs Bilstein Sport.
Anyone have experience to share with either or both of these on stock height springs for a R50 or R53?
I actually like the early OEM SS+ struts/shocks on my R50 (same part as the R53 ones), and at 82K, they're still holding
up surprisingly well, but since MINI softened them up in 5/2003, I feel the currently available ones would be a step
away from what I'd prefer.
Anyone have experience to share with either or both of these on stock height springs for a R50 or R53?
I actually like the early OEM SS+ struts/shocks on my R50 (same part as the R53 ones), and at 82K, they're still holding
up surprisingly well, but since MINI softened them up in 5/2003, I feel the currently available ones would be a step
away from what I'd prefer.
#34
#35
Interesting product. Much lower drop than a traditional coilover (15 mm).
Can the preload be adjusted closer to stock height?
Pretty pricey, though ($2324 for the 4). I'm not sure I can afford quite that much.
#36
#37
Found a neat summary page on the Ohlins coilovers:
http://www.improvedracing.com/coilov...0r53-p-45.html
They also have a tab for an instruction pdf.
343 lbs/in front, 286 lbs/in rear
front height -35mm to -5 mm c/w stock
rear height -40 to -10 mm c/w stock
rebound adjustable
and more.
there's also a page for r56 applications,
which is a little less expensive, a bit stiffer, and a little taller.
http://www.improvedracing.com/coilov...r56-p-357.html
http://www.improvedracing.com/coilov...0r53-p-45.html
They also have a tab for an instruction pdf.
343 lbs/in front, 286 lbs/in rear
front height -35mm to -5 mm c/w stock
rear height -40 to -10 mm c/w stock
rebound adjustable
and more.
there's also a page for r56 applications,
which is a little less expensive, a bit stiffer, and a little taller.
http://www.improvedracing.com/coilov...r56-p-357.html
#38
I asked for 70% critically damped in rebound at 2 inches per second. The force needed for that isn't too hard to calculate with the spring rates and the right equation.
For compression I asked for 55% critically damped with an extra digressive curve. I'm using Tein H-tech springs (very mild drop, spring rates are I think 207 lbs/in front and 225 lbs/in rear).
You can also just give them the spring rates and a few words on how you use the car, but I'm pretty into this stuff.
It's approx 110 bucks a corner for the revalve. My shocks were used and needed a rebuild anyway. I just had the rears rebuilt to standard to save some money (rebuild is i think 70 per corner).
I also asked to have the internal bumpstops trimmed for the fronts.
I would have loved Ohlins, but I'm not sure how much longer I'll have this car and it's not in the budget.
- Andy
#40
#41
I sent them to Bilstein USA in CA for the revalve.
I asked for 70% critically damped in rebound at 2 inches per second. The force needed for that isn't too hard to calculate with the spring rates and the right equation.
For compression I asked for 55% critically damped with an extra digressive curve. I'm using Tein H-tech springs (very mild drop, spring rates are I think 207 lbs/in front and 225 lbs/in rear).
You can also just give them the spring rates and a few words on how you use the car, but I'm pretty into this stuff.
It's approx 110 bucks a corner for the revalve. My shocks were used and needed a rebuild anyway. I just had the rears rebuilt to standard to save some money (rebuild is i think 70 per corner).
I also asked to have the internal bumpstops trimmed for the fronts.
I would have loved Ohlins, but I'm not sure how much longer I'll have this car and it's not in the budget.
- Andy
I asked for 70% critically damped in rebound at 2 inches per second. The force needed for that isn't too hard to calculate with the spring rates and the right equation.
For compression I asked for 55% critically damped with an extra digressive curve. I'm using Tein H-tech springs (very mild drop, spring rates are I think 207 lbs/in front and 225 lbs/in rear).
You can also just give them the spring rates and a few words on how you use the car, but I'm pretty into this stuff.
It's approx 110 bucks a corner for the revalve. My shocks were used and needed a rebuild anyway. I just had the rears rebuilt to standard to save some money (rebuild is i think 70 per corner).
I also asked to have the internal bumpstops trimmed for the fronts.
I would have loved Ohlins, but I'm not sure how much longer I'll have this car and it's not in the budget.
- Andy
does the extra digressive valving make it stiffer for low velocity inputs and less harsh for sharper faster bumps,
kind of like the idea behind the Koni FSD shocks?
Let me know how they compare to the Koni Yellows when you get them on!
Last edited by cristo; 12-02-2014 at 12:34 PM.
#42
#43
I sent them to Bilstein USA in CA for the revalve.
I asked for 70% critically damped in rebound at 2 inches per second. The force needed for that isn't too hard to calculate with the spring rates and the right equation.
For compression I asked for 55% critically damped with an extra digressive curve. I'm using Tein H-tech springs (very mild drop, spring rates are I think 207 lbs/in front and 225 lbs/in rear).
You can also just give them the spring rates and a few words on how you use the car, but I'm pretty into this stuff.
It's approx 110 bucks a corner for the revalve. My shocks were used and needed a rebuild anyway. I just had the rears rebuilt to standard to save some money (rebuild is i think 70 per corner).
I also asked to have the internal bumpstops trimmed for the fronts.
I would have loved Ohlins, but I'm not sure how much longer I'll have this car and it's not in the budget.
- Andy
I asked for 70% critically damped in rebound at 2 inches per second. The force needed for that isn't too hard to calculate with the spring rates and the right equation.
For compression I asked for 55% critically damped with an extra digressive curve. I'm using Tein H-tech springs (very mild drop, spring rates are I think 207 lbs/in front and 225 lbs/in rear).
You can also just give them the spring rates and a few words on how you use the car, but I'm pretty into this stuff.
It's approx 110 bucks a corner for the revalve. My shocks were used and needed a rebuild anyway. I just had the rears rebuilt to standard to save some money (rebuild is i think 70 per corner).
I also asked to have the internal bumpstops trimmed for the fronts.
I would have loved Ohlins, but I'm not sure how much longer I'll have this car and it's not in the budget.
- Andy
I prefer Bilstein dampers but to get adjustability for a reasonable price there really are only the Konis.
The only way to get adjustable Bilsteins are the PSS9/10 coilovers and those are a bit too pricey for me at the moment.
But i just have to get rid of the H-sport spring and stock shock combo...it's driving me batty!
#44
Had one other thought:
What about Bilstein Sport Shocks paired with the JCW red springs.
The high pressure gas shocks would bring them just about back to stock height.
Anyone try this? Anyone know what the spring rates are on the JCW springs?
Could possibly consider TSW springs with the Bilsteins since they only lower the
R50/R53 by 3/4 inch, or slightly less than that with Bilsteins.
Edit - I believe stock springs are about 165-170 #/in, JCW are about the same,
and TSW are 200 #/in linear springs.
What about Bilstein Sport Shocks paired with the JCW red springs.
The high pressure gas shocks would bring them just about back to stock height.
Anyone try this? Anyone know what the spring rates are on the JCW springs?
Could possibly consider TSW springs with the Bilsteins since they only lower the
R50/R53 by 3/4 inch, or slightly less than that with Bilsteins.
Edit - I believe stock springs are about 165-170 #/in, JCW are about the same,
and TSW are 200 #/in linear springs.
Last edited by cristo; 12-21-2014 at 01:33 PM. Reason: expounding
#45
Had one other thought:
What about Bilstein Sport Shocks paired with the JCW red springs.
The high pressure gas shocks would bring them just about back to stock height.
Anyone try this? Anyone know what the spring rates are on the JCW springs?
Could possibly consider TSW springs with the Bilsteins since they only lower the
R50/R53 by 3/4 inch, or slightly less than that with Bilsteins.
Edit - I believe stock springs are about 165-170 #/in, JCW are about the same,
and TSW are 200 #/in linear springs.
What about Bilstein Sport Shocks paired with the JCW red springs.
The high pressure gas shocks would bring them just about back to stock height.
Anyone try this? Anyone know what the spring rates are on the JCW springs?
Could possibly consider TSW springs with the Bilsteins since they only lower the
R50/R53 by 3/4 inch, or slightly less than that with Bilsteins.
Edit - I believe stock springs are about 165-170 #/in, JCW are about the same,
and TSW are 200 #/in linear springs.
I know that k-huevo has a good write-up on here of Bilstein + JCW springs.
I still haven't put my Bilsteins on...I'm slacking. Next week for sure though.
- Andrew
#47
turn up on my recent searches.
Here it is:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...from-hell.html
I see that he notes the Bilstein Sports have spring perches that are
7 mm lower in the front and 5 mm lower in the rear, and he had the fronts
sent back to be revalved because they were just too harsh in original form.
Looks like Koni Sports + stock springs is staying at the top of the list for now,
followed by revalved Bilsteins and stock springs a distant second.
... Or Ohlins if a sack of money falls on me.
Last edited by cristo; 12-22-2014 at 10:41 AM. Reason: look (out), it's a bird, it's a plane, it's a sack with 1300 pounds of pennies!
#48
Got my custom Bilsteins on and they are effing awesome. It's only been 2 days and they have a small "break-in" period where they soften up a bit but they are already fantastic. Better than my Konis for sure overall. I did trim the front internal bumpstops that they came with and it has helped the balance of the car a bit (more front grip).
The Konis rode better on smaller bumps, the Bilsteins not far behind but the Bilsteins are much better over big bumps. It's a much more solid experience and there is far less cringing taking place. I had to run the Konis near full soft (and that adjuster is mostly rebound) to be able to take the big bumps and that meant they were a little soft for handling. My custom Bilsteins do not have an excessive amount of rebound but do give me some decent digressive compression damping to make them so responsive. Good stuff.
It's still a MINI so the ride isn't "great" because there isn't a ton of travel. It is better than stock though. For me, this is pretty much the compromise I was looking for. The Konis are still good, and with the revalve on used Bilsteins I paid about as much as new Konis would have been. Starting from new it would have been more money.
They definitely lowered the front slightly. I should get an alignment now because of that.
I also hate doing strut installs on MINIs...this is definitely the last one.
- Andrew
The Konis rode better on smaller bumps, the Bilsteins not far behind but the Bilsteins are much better over big bumps. It's a much more solid experience and there is far less cringing taking place. I had to run the Konis near full soft (and that adjuster is mostly rebound) to be able to take the big bumps and that meant they were a little soft for handling. My custom Bilsteins do not have an excessive amount of rebound but do give me some decent digressive compression damping to make them so responsive. Good stuff.
It's still a MINI so the ride isn't "great" because there isn't a ton of travel. It is better than stock though. For me, this is pretty much the compromise I was looking for. The Konis are still good, and with the revalve on used Bilsteins I paid about as much as new Konis would have been. Starting from new it would have been more money.
They definitely lowered the front slightly. I should get an alignment now because of that.
I also hate doing strut installs on MINIs...this is definitely the last one.
- Andrew
#49
Thanks for the update. Good to hear it worked out splendidly.
I got Koni Sports and am keeping the oem SS+ springs, plus got an H-sport 19mm rear bar.
Just waiting for a warm-ish weekend to do the rear shocks and bar, and will probably
let the shop do the fronts in March, because
1 - I anticipate the fronts will be a pain to do at curbside in the cold.
2 - Annual inspection due then and it needs a driver strut mount to pass that
3 - Will probably not get enough pleasant weekend time to do both the rear and the front at home.
I got Koni Sports and am keeping the oem SS+ springs, plus got an H-sport 19mm rear bar.
Just waiting for a warm-ish weekend to do the rear shocks and bar, and will probably
let the shop do the fronts in March, because
1 - I anticipate the fronts will be a pain to do at curbside in the cold.
2 - Annual inspection due then and it needs a driver strut mount to pass that
3 - Will probably not get enough pleasant weekend time to do both the rear and the front at home.
#50
Thanks for the update. Good to hear it worked out splendidly.
I got Koni Sports and am keeping the oem SS+ springs, plus got an H-sport 19mm rear bar.
Just waiting for a warm-ish weekend to do the rear shocks and bar, and will probably
let the shop do the fronts in March, because
1 - I anticipate the fronts will be a pain to do at curbside in the cold.
2 - Annual inspection due then and it needs a driver strut mount to pass that
3 - Will probably not get enough pleasant weekend time to do both the rear and the front at home.
I got Koni Sports and am keeping the oem SS+ springs, plus got an H-sport 19mm rear bar.
Just waiting for a warm-ish weekend to do the rear shocks and bar, and will probably
let the shop do the fronts in March, because
1 - I anticipate the fronts will be a pain to do at curbside in the cold.
2 - Annual inspection due then and it needs a driver strut mount to pass that
3 - Will probably not get enough pleasant weekend time to do both the rear and the front at home.
I have an extra pair of OEM front strut mounts...look like they're in decent condition. 15 + shipping?
- Andy