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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
Just throwing this out there... any chance there has been a sunroof leak on the driver side? Or water in the battery well?
While all of your results/codes definitely point to problems... electrical gremlins sure seem to be popping up that I've seen related to water/grounding issues.
Just throwing this out there... any chance there has been a sunroof leak on the driver side? Or water in the battery well?
While all of your results/codes definitely point to problems... electrical gremlins sure seem to be popping up that I've seen related to water/grounding issues.
Also...Think I've checked all the ground spots already...any hidden ones I may have missed?
Brochacho, You are correct... There is not much info that I have found on trouble shooting using INPA for Mini's. There is more on BMW's on the BMW forums but you will have to try and relate that information back to Mini's because the screens and info aren't the same...
looking at the readings in your codes it appears that your TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) may be off. It is showing a value of 20.62deg and KOEO (Key On Engine Off) mine reads around 8deg. A bad TPS might make the car start hard, but I would think it would still start.
I would check that just to be sure. You can use INPA or a volt meter to check the voltage of the TPS at idle and check that it is changing.
To use INPA start by selecting the engine computer and go to (I believe) Status. From there select Analog Values and Manufact Test. The Throttle Position Voltage 1 should be around 1V (KOEO) (mine is .89V). The Accelerator Pedal 1 value should be close to the TPS Value (mine is .7V). When you push the pedal to the floor the Accelerator pedal 1 value should increase to (in theory 5V) (mine is 3.89V).
Not sure why you would be seeing a low voltage code unless one of your relays is not working. (which could cause a no start...) From the Manufact Test screen you should be able to press F2 (Engine) and go to F3 (Engine 3). There you will see "Battery Voltage after Relay" and "Battery Voltage after Key". The "Battery Voltage after Relay" should be 12.5-13 volts(battery voltage). The "Battery Voltage after key" should be 0.00 until you start the car then it should read 14+/-Volts. Also from this screen you can see the value of the TPS degrees and "Driver Demand", "Driver Demand 1" and "Driver Demand 2". The driver demand (all of them) should be 0.00 without your foot on the pedal. With the pedal all the way down they should read 100%.
Hope this helps a little!!!
Originally Posted by Brochacho
Ok...Got time to check it out. One question, where is the TPS sensor? I assume it's in the throttle body. I hope it's not having a problem, I just replaced the throttle body.
Anyway, here are the values w/ Key On Engine Off:
Analog Values
...with pedal to floor
Battery voltages after Relay and Key
'thewizz' indicated above that battery voltage, after the key, w/ engine off, should be 0.00. Mine is showing battery voltage. What could cause this? What needs to be done to troubleshoot it?
I'm guessing you are getting (are) very frustrated!
First off, I updated my INPA and now my Battery Voltage after relay and after key read the same. Not sure if this was due to having a slightly older version of INPA?!? I don't think there is anything wrong with yours however your battery voltage is pretty low probably from trying to start the car a number of times.
Here's a few more things to try...
1. If you are still getting the EWS error you posted the car WILL NOT START. After I fixed mine by resetting the immobilisation seed the car acted up again a few days later and I had to do it a 2nd time. Since then it has been good. Also as a side note... When I reset it the first time, I had to do it twice before it took. BUT if you are still getting that error code you need to do it again! You can check INPA to see if the EWS is seeing anything wrong. Check the Digital values of the EWS. They should all be off or "no".
If any of them are "lit" (black) and say "yes", that means there is still a problem! Here is what mine looked like when I still had the error.
2. Since you have already replaced the Throttle Body and the Throttle Pedal another item that might be causing an issue would be your brake pedal. Your brake pedal also has 2 switches/sensors that will keep the car from starting if they are not reading correctly. You can see if they are sending a signal to the ECM by checking the digital values as well. Look at the "standard digital values". Both Brake switches should be "inactive" until you press the brake. Once you press the brake they should both go to "active" like this...
If one or both do not change, this will keep the car from starting and may mean you need a new switch. This is some sort of fail safe that is built into the system.
3. I do not think you can reset the adaption values from the speedo (I may be wrong). Everything I have read says you have to do that using INPA. To do this go to the engine page and select (mine is F6) "Activate".
Also, please note... Your screens my be slightly different since you have an R56 and I have an R50....
Then select (mine is F4) Clear ECT throttle Adaption
Other posts I have read (mostly on the BMW forums) say that after resetting this you must exit the software and turn off the key, then turn the key on for 10sec and again off for 10sec prior to starting the car. I guess it lets the ECU relearn the starting points or something like that.... I don't think this would cause the car not to start but might give you errors and drivability issues since the ECM is still working on values set using the old Throttle Body.
I'm guessing you are getting (are) very frustrated!
First off, I updated my INPA and now my Battery Voltage after relay and after key read the same. Not sure if this was due to having a slightly older version of INPA?!? I don't think there is anything wrong with yours however your battery voltage is pretty low probably from trying to start the car a number of times.
Here's a few more things to try...
1. If you are still getting the EWS error you posted the car WILL NOT START. After I fixed mine by resetting the immobilisation seed the car acted up again a few days later and I had to do it a 2nd time. Since then it has been good. Also as a side note... When I reset it the first time, I had to do it twice before it took. BUT if you are still getting that error code you need to do it again! You can check INPA to see if the EWS is seeing anything wrong. Check the Digital values of the EWS. They should all be off or "no".
Clipped images to save the environment and starving bunnies in far off places
If any of them are "lit" (black) and say "yes", that means there is still a problem! Here is what mine looked like when I still had the error.
2. Since you have already replaced the Throttle Body and the Throttle Pedal another item that might be causing an issue would be your brake pedal. Your brake pedal also has 2 switches/sensors that will keep the car from starting if they are not reading correctly. You can see if they are sending a signal to the ECM by checking the digital values as well. Look at the "standard digital values". Both Brake switches should be "inactive" until you press the brake. Once you press the brake they should both go to "active" like this...
If one or both do not change, this will keep the car from starting and may mean you need a new switch. This is some sort of fail safe that is built into the system.
3. I do not think you can reset the adaption values from the speedo (I may be wrong). Everything I have read says you have to do that using INPA. To do this go to the engine page and select (mine is F6) "Activate".
Also, please note... Your screens my be slightly different since you have an R56 and I have an R50....
Then select (mine is F4) Clear ECT throttle Adaption
Other posts I have read (mostly on the BMW forums) say that after resetting this you must exit the software and turn off the key, then turn the key on for 10sec and again off for 10sec prior to starting the car. I guess it lets the ECU relearn the starting points or something like that.... I don't think this would cause the car not to start but might give you errors and drivability issues since the ECM is still working on values set using the old Throttle Body.
Hope some of this helps!
Thanks a ton! Yes, it's pretty frustrating, but I'm doing what I can when I can. Petty much just saving up to put it in the shop, if I can't figure it out at this point. Hoping I can get it figured out with some forum guidance . I will check and try these this morning after work. Curious if the adaptations are out of wack enough to cause no start because of replacing both the pedal and throttle body and not resetting the adaptations for each.
I have seen that error before. Don't know what causes it.
I would try and reboot the computer and try again to see if it works. The times I have seen that, it has seemed almost random... Like it will happen doing the same thing that has worked in the past and then will work again later but usually after I have left and come back and the computer has been turned off and back on. I have never tried to restart the computer to see if it goes away.
I have seen that error before. Don't know what causes it.
I would try and reboot the computer and try again to see if it works. The times I have seen that, it has seemed almost random... Like it will happen doing the same thing that has worked in the past and then will work again later but usually after I have left and come back and the computer has been turned off and back on. I have never tried to restart the computer to see if it goes away.
Can you post any codes you have right now?
Thanks!
I did reboot and try again before giving up and post the error message here. Wonder if all my files for the software are in correct place.
The errors are still the original 2 that have hung around all along...5778 and 5779 Electronic Throttle Control......
Ugh...I tried looking into it again this morning. Codes all cleared. Checked with generic scanner also. Now, I only get a bump to starter turning the engine over maybe a couple inches...
Noticed the Clutch Switch shows active all the time, whether I'm pressing clutch in or not. Key on or not. Is that correct? Below is a piece of what you posted when you were pointing out the brake switches.
I did notice that no matter what position my clutch was in the indicator always showed on.
What's your battery voltage? You may not have enough battery to turn over the engine...
So.... everything I have read about those codes does not keep the engine from starting. This has me a little puzzled.....
I'm guessing that ECSTuning may have been correct about a wiring issue. I suppose that if the computer has lost all signal with the Throttle Body it may not let the car start. I did find the attached service bulletin while searching this issue. It lists 2 possible causes for these codes (P1692 & P1693 same as 5778 & 5779).
1. Throttle body failure
and
2. Bad harness.
Not sure how you are with wiring but from what I have found the connectors on Mini Coopers are fairly easy to take apart. If I were you I would pull the connector at the throttle body apart (that is the connector X6390 the service bulletin is talking about). I would inspect each pin very closely (use a magnifying glass if you have one) and test continuity between each pin and the ECU. Here are the pin #'s in the ECU and Throttle Body:
I will list them in this order...
TB Pin # - Wire Color - ECU Pin #
#1 - RED - #10
#2 - RED/Violet - #13
#3 - Yellow/White - #65 & #66 (I am pretty sure it is Yellow there is an issue in the Bentley manual with this color)
#4 - BLUE - #11
#5 - ORANGE - #63 & #64 (The Bentley manual doesn't list this color at all)
#6 - BROWN/White - #12
If you don't want to go all the way to the ECU (although I would) you can stick a pin into each wire several inches back from the connector and check there.
If all this checks out, what's the possibility you got a bad throttle body??
BTW I have found a couple of other things that could cause these codes as well, but neither of them would cause the car not to start. Here's what I have found while searching...
Blown Head Gasket
Bad Crank Pulley
It would be really good to know what fuel pressure you are getting as well. That may be nothing but its worth ruling out!
I did notice that no matter what position my clutch was in the indicator always showed on.
What's your battery voltage? You may not have enough battery to turn over the engine...
So.... everything I have read about those codes does not keep the engine from starting. This has me a little puzzled.....
I'm guessing that ECSTuning may have been correct about a wiring issue. I suppose that if the computer has lost all signal with the Throttle Body it may not let the car start. I did find the attached service bulletin while searching this issue. It lists 2 possible causes for these codes (P1692 & P1693 same as 5778 & 5779).
1. Throttle body failure
and
2. Bad harness.
Not sure how you are with wiring but from what I have found the connectors on Mini Coopers are fairly easy to take apart. If I were you I would pull the connector at the throttle body apart (that is the connector X6390 the service bulletin is talking about). I would inspect each pin very closely (use a magnifying glass if you have one) and test continuity between each pin and the ECU. Here are the pin #'s in the ECU and Throttle Body:
I will list them in this order...
TB Pin # - Wire Color - ECU Pin #
#1 - RED - #10
#2 - RED/Violet - #13
#3 - Yellow/White - #65 & #66 (I am pretty sure it is Yellow there is an issue in the Bentley manual with this color)
#4 - BLUE - #11
#5 - ORANGE - #63 & #64 (The Bentley manual doesn't list this color at all)
#6 - BROWN/White - #12
If you don't want to go all the way to the ECU (although I would) you can stick a pin into each wire several inches back from the connector and check there.
If all this checks out, what's the possibility you got a bad throttle body??
BTW I have found a couple of other things that could cause these codes as well, but neither of them would cause the car not to start. Here's what I have found while searching...
Blown Head Gasket
Bad Crank Pulley
It would be really good to know what fuel pressure you are getting as well. That may be nothing but its worth ruling out!
Sure hope this helps...
I figured the clutch switch was supposed to act that way...just small hopes I guess...
I had a running car jumpered to mine for the 1/2 hour plus I was fooling around with the car. Voltage reading on the speedo test thingy/routine read 12.9. The not turning over the engine is odd...It's like I'm 'barely bumping the key to line up timing mark' type of bump. Tried learning and resetting immobilizer too...Hope that doesn't cause anything.
I saw a couple threads somewhere (lol...I've been all over reading) mentioning the blown head gasket/bad crank pulley. I see there is already a mark on the pulley and it looks to still be lined up. I didn't see any indication of head gasket leaking in oil/coolant/exhaust.
Wonder if/where if so, the ECU reads fuel pressure...I'm sure it should show on the scanner/INPA...I'll check. If not, I'll figure out how to get a gauge on it.
I have no problem checking ECU to throttle body harness. Guess that's on the agenda tomorrow morning...Thanks!
Not yet...Been busy with life...Brother-in-law gets to spend time in Sheriff Joe's tent-city for DUI, so I'm using his (used to be mine) '12 VW Jetta. I pick him up daily to take him to work, so I use his car/gas. By the time I'm finished with that, it's too warm to sit in or around the car to work on it. Working on a deal to get a cooler that will help keep me cool to work on it.
Forgive me for not reading the whole thread again, but have you checked your starter on a bench tester. Many auto parts stores will test them for free, out of hopes you'll prove to yourself that you need a new one and will order from them.
Forgive me for not reading the whole thread again, but have you checked your starter on a bench tester. Many auto parts stores will test them for free, out of hopes you'll prove to yourself that you need a new one and will order from them.
Scott
Thx! I'm in the process of removing it right now. Its no easy feat...lol
Doh!...Got the starter reinstalled and buttoned up. Look inside and see what I'm pretty sure is the clutch safety switch. Searching for a diagram to show where it goes and how it mounts.
Been a few days running it to be sure. Once I found the diagram and reinstalled the clutch safety switch, it fired right up, no codes. The switch had to have been loose and still near enough to intermittently work If not, I don't know what was going on...
Thanks everyone for you help!
If searching leads you here to my post...Check your Clutch Safety Switch!
04-19-2016, 09:53 AM
I don't think there is anything wrong with yours however your battery voltage is pretty low probably from trying to start the car a number of times. 
)
Its no easy feat...lol
