R50/53 Lower control arm bushing tool
#26
10-27-2014, 07:10 AM
Regarding the "bolts for the brackets" - are you talking about the control arm bracket #7 on this image?
Did you drop the subframe to take off (and reinstall) the brackets?
If you did - DAYMN! That sucks.
If you did not - how did you properly torque the bolts? There's like zero room to swing a torque wrench.
I'm assuming by the way you worded your post that you didn't drop the subframe. Others have mentioned to just "suck it up" and take the hour + to drop the subframe and I think your experience may have proven that it takes less time to drop it than to fiddle/deal with the problems of a confined area.
It also goes to show that using the BMW tools (while freaking expensive) can save a lot of time and headache. I guess it comes down to how much you value your time and suffering.
Did you drop the subframe to take off (and reinstall) the brackets?
If you did - DAYMN! That sucks.
If you did not - how did you properly torque the bolts? There's like zero room to swing a torque wrench.
I'm assuming by the way you worded your post that you didn't drop the subframe. Others have mentioned to just "suck it up" and take the hour + to drop the subframe and I think your experience may have proven that it takes less time to drop it than to fiddle/deal with the problems of a confined area.
It also goes to show that using the BMW tools (while freaking expensive) can save a lot of time and headache. I guess it comes down to how much you value your time and suffering.
Well actually I did drop the sub frame but not completely. I was taking bolts out one by one until the frame was hung by 1 bolt to where I had enough space to take out the bolt since there is no other way to take out the bracket because of the bracket for the sway bar that is on top of it.
I don't think any BMW tool would have helped in this situation and would not have saved me time. All the bolts were seized into their respective threads and that took up most of the time.
All you need is a press to put them back on. I was opposed to the powerflex bushings because they are a lot harder and would carry the road noise into the cabin.
#27
10-27-2014, 07:22 AM
Wow - that's rough.
Perhaps the only last advantage of complete subframe removal is the ability to get an air gun square on top of the bracket to help with the seized bolts.
The advantage of the BMW tool combination is that you can remove the bushings without dropping the subframe or removing the bracket.
Perhaps the only last advantage of complete subframe removal is the ability to get an air gun square on top of the bracket to help with the seized bolts.
The advantage of the BMW tool combination is that you can remove the bushings without dropping the subframe or removing the bracket.
#28
10-27-2014, 07:37 AM
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#29
10-27-2014, 07:47 AM
What is getting me is I changed both bushings and ball joints. All of the engine and tranny mounts and I still have the engine rocking back and forth on a slow go . Anyone have any ideas on what else to change ? Maybe the strut mounts ? Would that make the car rock ?
Explain what you are doing when this rocking is taking place? Are you just dropping the clutch the engine is sputtering back and forth? As long as there is no banging of parts being heard, then that is what it is supposed to be.
#30
10-27-2014, 07:49 AM
Wow - that's rough.
Perhaps the only last advantage of complete subframe removal is the ability to get an air gun square on top of the bracket to help with the seized bolts.
The advantage of the BMW tool combination is that you can remove the bushings without dropping the subframe or removing the bracket.
Perhaps the only last advantage of complete subframe removal is the ability to get an air gun square on top of the bracket to help with the seized bolts.
The advantage of the BMW tool combination is that you can remove the bushings without dropping the subframe or removing the bracket.
Does the tool help press the bushing onto the control arm afterwards? Cause if that is the case, then I agree that it would have saved time. Otherwise you still need to take off the whole assembly, bracket and control arm and have it pressed together.
#31
10-27-2014, 08:53 AM
As I understand it (I haven't bought them yet) both tools can pull the pieces back together. The one the OP started with:
and the one people tend to make (the 'press'):
If anyone who has used them can clarify and verify that would be helpful.
#32
10-27-2014, 09:26 AM
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#33
10-27-2014, 09:33 AM
I didn't drop the sub frame or remove the bushing brackets. The old bushings were totally shot and the control arms just pulled out leaving some rubber and the outer steel sleeve. I cut it out carefully with a sawzall and then pressed in the Powerflex outer bushing with large heavy duty washers and a threaded rod cut to size. Difficult? Yes!
#34
10-28-2014, 06:21 AM
I didn't drop the sub frame or remove the bushing brackets. The old bushings were totally shot and the control arms just pulled out leaving some rubber and the outer steel sleeve. I cut it out carefully with a sawzall and then pressed in the Powerflex outer bushing with large heavy duty washers and a threaded rod cut to size. Difficult? Yes!
x2 on this solution. I killed myself trying to use an air chisel, but couldn't really get the proper angle on it. In the end it was the sawzall that saved me. (car on jack stands, lying on the floor - no lift needed).
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