R50/53 2005 Mini Cooper Overheating Issues
#26
The serpentine belt has nothing to do with powering the water pump. The water pump is driven from the back of the supercharger. This is a weak part of the MINI as the seals around these gears can leak and cause the gear lube to drain out and cause the gears to eat themselves up. This causes the water pump to stop working.
Last edited by Kahnfucious; 07-31-2014 at 07:55 PM.
#27
My experience at first--overheating, changed the radiator fan due to low speed fan not coming on--solve the problem then A/C not cooling followed by overheating at the mall, no steaming on the reservoir, drove home and further investigate no leak all seem normal then read the forum about water pump gear, put the car on service mode to pull the supercharger and found low oil on the PTO side due to leaking seal. Ordered new S/C with new pulley, new water pump,o-rings, thermostat, belt and belt tensioner and upgraded bushing and stop, new hood latches and cable. Finally all done ran for about a week then here comes again overheating issue this time the reservoir is steaming when the A/C is on, run ok without the A/C, temperature goes up to 230F and the low speed radiator fan not turning, but i hear the power steering fan comes-on, turn the A/C on then fan comes on then stop and never comes on again, im thinking the low speed fan relay or the coolant sensor. I bled the cooling system, ran the heater etc, etc.... hoping to get some directions. BTW: I don't see any coolant leak, after it cools-off the reservoir (tank) still more than half way!!
#28
Hi drea..you changed the radiator fan and it doesn't come on at low speed? Would be really unlucky to get a fan with a resistor that only worked for a week. The fact that the hi-speed doesn't work either is concerning. What year car? Double check the PS fan...all fuses for fan and radiator fan. 233 is when the hi speed comes on or with the AC.
Last edited by drea-min; 07-31-2014 at 10:52 PM.
#29
You are incorrect in those temperatures. Normal operating temp for an MCS is about 203-210 so that's where the low speed fan comes on. Check your fuse you know the PS fan and the radiator fan are likely on the same fuse right? if something jams up the PS fan (stick, rock etc) it will stop turning and blow the fuse. http://www.minitorque.com/forum/f26/...th-points-533/ Gates is a good brand...I wouldn't start there.
#30
Update:This morning weather is good around 84F, hooked ODII scanner to monitor coolant temperature, checked coolant in the reservoir.. Normal.. Open cap and ran the engine monitoring the top radiator hose then started to gets hot so i know the thermostat is working (190F openning) allowing the coolant to circulate,then recapped the tank. Ran the A/C and seconds later the radiator fan kicks-in double checked if actually running and confirmed running without hesitation, no weird noises on any part of the engine or radiator fan and spinning smoothly, the compressor is engage by the evidence of the yellow marking on the clutch i made prior to starting up the engine. Ran the engine for at least an hour by varrying the RPM and watching the coolant temperature, it holds between 192-194 and the radiator fan is still running, drove the car around the block and tried to maintain around 2.5-3k RPM for another half hour. Drove home and the i turned off the A/C rev the engine while watching the coolant temperature.... It reached around 221F and the low speed radiator fan kick-in then it stop around 206F i'm not sure if this is suppose to be set at or maybe my scanner is not calibrated. Turn the A/C again when temp at 221 and the fan continue to run until it reaches 192F. So i don't understand what's wrong
the other day while it overheated.
Note: i look at the belt tensioner hardly see the 1st hole on the stick where to put the pin so i think the belt is too loose, i followed what others saying for the 15% pulley ----35 something NAPA brand belt.
Update: 3:30pm 88F temperature windy and sunny.
Received the new low speed fan relay from mini mania, replaced the old relay fired up (thought the old one is bad) temperature came up to 212F radiator fan came on then turn on the A/C, clutch engage, fan came on then it stop at 198F but the A/C clutch still engage, i let it run for a while then the temperature started to climb past the 212F and the low speed never came on... 248F high speed fan never came on either but i heard the power steering fan came on... Turned off the engine.. Reinstall the old relay, start the engine then the low speed fan came on moment after start. Weird going on ... Confused!!!
the other day while it overheated.
Note: i look at the belt tensioner hardly see the 1st hole on the stick where to put the pin so i think the belt is too loose, i followed what others saying for the 15% pulley ----35 something NAPA brand belt.
Update: 3:30pm 88F temperature windy and sunny.
Received the new low speed fan relay from mini mania, replaced the old relay fired up (thought the old one is bad) temperature came up to 212F radiator fan came on then turn on the A/C, clutch engage, fan came on then it stop at 198F but the A/C clutch still engage, i let it run for a while then the temperature started to climb past the 212F and the low speed never came on... 248F high speed fan never came on either but i heard the power steering fan came on... Turned off the engine.. Reinstall the old relay, start the engine then the low speed fan came on moment after start. Weird going on ... Confused!!!
Last edited by drea-min; 08-01-2014 at 07:00 PM.
#31
Jeese dude how much time you got on your hands to be swapping fans in and out all the time? If the gates one was working why did you take it out and replace with the old one with a resistor kit?
Never let the car hit 248 degrees again that's flirting with blown head gaskets.
All this pulling the fan in and out I can almost guarantee you introduced an air bubble. Did you properly bleed the system after you pulled off the radiator hose? Is the coolant level correct? You lost a few ounces with each time you pulled the hose at least.
Never let the car hit 248 degrees again that's flirting with blown head gaskets.
All this pulling the fan in and out I can almost guarantee you introduced an air bubble. Did you properly bleed the system after you pulled off the radiator hose? Is the coolant level correct? You lost a few ounces with each time you pulled the hose at least.
#32
Jeese dude how much time you got on your hands to be swapping fans in and out all the time? If the gates one was working why did you take it out and replace with the old one with a resistor kit?
Never let the car hit 248 degrees again that's flirting with blown head gaskets.
All this pulling the fan in and out I can almost guarantee you introduced an air bubble. Did you properly bleed the system after you pulled off the radiator hose? Is the coolant level correct? You lost a few ounces with each time you pulled the hose at least.
Never let the car hit 248 degrees again that's flirting with blown head gaskets.
All this pulling the fan in and out I can almost guarantee you introduced an air bubble. Did you properly bleed the system after you pulled off the radiator hose? Is the coolant level correct? You lost a few ounces with each time you pulled the hose at least.
Last edited by drea-min; 08-03-2014 at 04:58 PM.
#33
My particular problem
Hello everyone~
it's great to see the input from everyone on here. I have a `06 Convertible S model & it suddenly started getting hot. I used my pressure tester to load the system to 12psi & it was leaking right there @ seam on the coolant reservoir! After subsequent research, I learned that many other people had problems with the exact same issue. You think those cheap bastards would "weld" the seam instead of gluing it!
A new unit was only $35.96 on ebay, so it's not too bad. I'm just sayin`...
it's great to see the input from everyone on here. I have a `06 Convertible S model & it suddenly started getting hot. I used my pressure tester to load the system to 12psi & it was leaking right there @ seam on the coolant reservoir! After subsequent research, I learned that many other people had problems with the exact same issue. You think those cheap bastards would "weld" the seam instead of gluing it!
A new unit was only $35.96 on ebay, so it's not too bad. I'm just sayin`...
#36
Overheating issue
Your car might be burning the fuel lean. this caan be caused by a defective mass air flow control valve or a defective lambdasonde. making the temparature internal in the engine to rise. without missing water on the system or without that your thermostat or waterpump is defective.........
my 2003 mini had the problem with the mass air flow control valve. and my 2006 mini is actually at the mecanic guy now to get changed the lambdasonde which also gives wrong signal to the computer making it burn lean and overheating
my 2003 mini had the problem with the mass air flow control valve. and my 2006 mini is actually at the mecanic guy now to get changed the lambdasonde which also gives wrong signal to the computer making it burn lean and overheating
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