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i bought the m7 OCC and it came with pretty detailed informative instructions. Anyone ordering aftermaket parts need to to talk to Peter(the owner) he really knows his stuff. Just a little info.
Definately #3. Think about how MINI designed the system. By using #3 you are not changing the routing of the system. You are just inserting the OCC inline where most of the oil is coming from. If you use the routing from #1 or #2 you are tying the two vent systems together. Using either one of those methods and you end up getting more water than oil and the OCC fills up fairly quickly. Let the OCC get too full and what do you think happens next? Now you have an over flow of contaminates into the system and limited or no breathing for the system. These two methods have lead to failures of the crank case ventilation and serious failures. Just my two cents, the only safe way is #3 and only a single OCC is really needed.
Steve
Method three is simply putting the OCC in between the hose going from the valve cover on the left and the grey hose leading into the supercharger. Thats it? One splice and we're done?
Sorry, but the writeups actually made it sound a lot harder than it was.
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Charlie Arrived 6/16/04 - MINI Cooper S - CooperFlags Silver\Black Maple Leaf. Alta Intake. Invidia Exhaust. Megan coilovers. M7 Pulley, Craven short shifter. H-Sport Rear Swaybar. M7 Strut Bar.
I just bought a m7 oil catch can and I've been researching the different routing options. As mention above, #3 is the best route (PCV to supercharger) I was shocked when I opened the OCC and found it was empty. I thought "what would stop the oil vapors and what not to be sucked back up?" Then I was reading about putting something in to catch the oil (example: stainless steel brillo pad) Then someone mentioned about possibility of ss pad pieces getting in the system.
So I planned on doing this with a little twist. I plan on putting a tube from the OCC intake and run it thru the brillo pad to the bottom. Then on top of the brillo pad make a round metal disc with holes drilled through. That way air can pass thru but nothing else.
What do you think? Am I just being too cautious??
__________________ 2005 MCS Electric///Blue White Top & Bonnet Stripes/Alta V2 15% pulley/ Alta V2 CAI/Alta Air Diverter/Stratmosphere cat-back/ Detroit Tuned BV/M7 OCC/ Marshall Boost gauge/17x7.5 Rota Rb White w/ polished lip/Hankook Ventus 215/45-17/Screaming Demon coil/cabrio braces/brisk plugs/skid plate
I realize this thread is pretty old. But the diagram for solution #3 is not showing.
Can someone re-upload a diagram for solution #3, since it seems to be the agreed-upon-best solution?
Thanks!
P.S. Is there anything wrong with the generic ebay oil catch cans? Why pay $100+ for a brand name when you can get the generic for $20?
__________________ 2005 Purple Haze MINI Cooper S
Alta Classic 15% Pulley and Cold Air Intake - Mynes 550cc Injectors and 1 Step Colder NGK Plugs - Revolution Mini Works Tune - Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop - Helix Short Throw Shifter 197 whp / 195 wtq
Solution 3 is the same as 2 but instead of connecting both hoses to the can, you leave the passenger side one alone and only connect the drivers side hose as indicated in the drawing.
I am a little confused, though. I haven't removed my intercooler to look yet, but what does the stock setup look like?
The reason I ask is because most of the above implies that the grey vacuum line is connected directly to the PCV outlet on the crank case. But it is not the correct diameter to connect right up to the crank case. What all is being removed?
Lastly, is there an easy way to remove the devil horns so that they can be cleaned, or is that a major mechanical endeavor?
__________________ 2005 Purple Haze MINI Cooper S
Alta Classic 15% Pulley and Cold Air Intake - Mynes 550cc Injectors and 1 Step Colder NGK Plugs - Revolution Mini Works Tune - Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop - Helix Short Throw Shifter 197 whp / 195 wtq