Clear your PM's I can't message, you are too popular
Do I need a boost tap (like NM) for the HFS-3, or just have it trigger off IDC? How is yours connected? I'm happy to have moved up from my $300 meth kit

mQuebed Manic Tuning Dealer

 

I am awaiting this as well as I think the direct port injection using the spacer would be an ideal balance between lowering temps and lowering carbon build-up.

 

Quick vid. Little blurry. But check it out. Had some traction issues in the beginning. 115mph incase it's not visible.
Make sure you follow Manic Motorsports USA on Facebook.

 

No boost tap needed. It's all electronic, you tap into the DME to get the signals for boost and fuel injectors.

 

Same here,

That port spacer plus a new meth tank, and an upgraded Turbo will be my next and last power plant upgrades...

 

Mario,
Does the ecu need to see the temp drop on the IAT for tunning ? In otherwords , if you use the spacer and direct spray in the head your not going to see the temp drop on the IAT ?
Just a thought.

 

just got a P0597 for thermostat on the way in to work this morning... Wondering if it's related to the thermostat being open earlier or if it has nothing at all to do with the tune.

Already had the thermostat housing done under warranty not that long ago.

I will put it back to stock map on the way home and see what's up. No loss of power or anything funky at all otherwise. Drives fine, been in 2.5 + Map A forever, still haven't moved to B.

 

Cool. Was pretty sure you'd be using the right one. For others that don't know there are two other PID's for MAF in Dashcommand however they are based on speed/density calculations and not as accurate as a direct MAF reading. If for some reason you can't read SAE.MAF I'd try CALC.MAF.B as it compensates for inlet air temp.

 

That fault is for the heating element circuit not the coolant temp. Your heating element has failed. Pretty common failure , If they don't start leaking they typically fail that way.

If replaced less than 2 years ago I would be calling the dealer to see if they will take care of it. They have recently changed their parts warranties but they used to warranty any part replaced under warranty for 2 years so if you had a part replace right before it you went out of warranty they would give you a warranty on that part for 2 years from repair date.

 

Thanks, EuroTech dudes!

Will be checking my records, pretty sure it's under 2 years.

No leaks or anything and the car still runs strong. I guess I should take it in soon than later?

 

Still chasing this 2C57 code!! It is starting to drive me crazy. Sent Nick a catalog as he might need to tweak the tune.

 

installing dp this weekend, so I'll pretty much be ready for stage 2 tune, right? upgrades include FMIC, aem CAI, alta BOV spring upgrade, Invidia q300 dp back exhaust, and CNT catted downpipe.

another question, if I do further upgrades, such as hot side boost tube, would I need the manic tune upgraded to compensate for the change? probably no major changes like meth or anything. maybe just cabin noise delete, that intake cat delete thing next to the turbo, or hot side boost tube.

 

Finally got my MANIC bling

 

I'd imagine that no tune updates are needed for boost tubes, noise maker or intake muffler deletes.

 

I'm getting my tune tomorrow leaving at 4 AM woo hoo lol

 

You won't need to upgrade Manic, if your just changing hot and cold pipes. Let us know how you like the tune, it should put a smile on your face.

mQuebed Manic Tuning Dealer

 

+1,

Had to pull this question to the top due to the fact that I'm looking to run this set up soon as it's available. Im thinking go with a 5 way split: 4-direct port, and 1-to the IC tube. Only issues I would worry about is whether my pump can keep up. And than the obvious fact of needing a larger tank. What do you all think???

 

Is this PID something we have to search and hope is there when dash command is hooked up or can we type in the PID to use it?

I had no MAF reading at all with my last tune. Now that I'm Manic tuned I do get a MAF reading however I haven't looked to see which PID is being used.

 

Got my stage2 tune done just leaving now. The guys at redline speedworx in NJ were awesome very professional. They charge an additional $100 install fee but I was able to drive there and get it done. So far I'm very happy with the tune but I've only driven 5 miles or so.

 

That's crappy they charge an install fee. There install fee is technically part of the price of the tune.

 

I said none of the other dealers charge a fee but they weren't gonna move on it so it is what it is. It was gonna cost more the the fee to ship the ECU and I wouldn't have my car for 3-5 days. It was worth every penny this tune is amazing it completely changed the way the car feels. The throttle is much more precise and power delivery is smoother. It pulls all the way through I had it at 140 tonight and it felt like it had more. The guys were nice at redline and they know they're stuff. There were only performance cars in the lot. A lot of S4s an RSTT a prowler and R32 and more. You could eat off the shop floor and they are very knowledgeable. I definitely recommend these guys

 

When you first connect DashCommand it should run through a quick self test and verify which PID's are compatible and which are not. If not you can tell it to verify PID's. A properly written tune should not alter the location of that data in the ECU tables.

 

Manic meth files do not need to see intake air temp drop for timing control. The Meth tunes can also be used with 100 octane race fuel which would have no affect on intake temps. The timing curve is influenced by the knock sensor.

Using meth to affect intake air temp/timing is more of a trick to get more out of the factory timing maps.

 

Very true as far as it goes. However... Intake air temperature most definitely makes a difference in performance and how hard your turbo has to work. If your going to make 300BHP you need to feed 31 lbs/min of air into the engine. Air density changes with temperature. At 20 psi of boost 120°F air has a density of 0.162 lbs per cubic foot so that 31 lbs of air would occupy 191 cubic feet. If we drop the air temp to 80°F that density increases to 0.174 lb per cubic foot at 20 psi and the 31 lbs of air only occupies 178 cubic feet. That 40° degree split will result in your turbo having to work 13.7% harder to force the same amount of air into the engine and if the turbo can't push more air performance will suffer. In addition higher intake temperature increases flame speed and the tendency for detonation. That is why the factory tune pulls timing when intake temps climb over 110°. With meth or race gas the flame speed is reduced and you can run more aggressive timing but the temperature rule still applies. Cooler IS better.

 

so its been two or three weeks know since i went to eurotechsaz..... first off i would like to say i couldnt be more please with the service that jerry and "the dad" provided.....

second the stage 2+ manic tune and the direct port meth kit goes hard as fukkk

i mostly just drive my car in the b map and still getclose to 30 mpg in los angeles traffic

i also filled my car up 100 octane and my mini got straight ignorant every one turned their head... sport mode on it still back fires and farts like crazy

i also had some kid in daddys new carrera attemot to run me the mini walked it after 65 and had about two lengths on it.... i also got it above 140 on the marina hwy so i must say i enjoy my car alot and dont plan on getting rid of it any time soon ..... next step much needed susspension work and a much needed owens turbo