Anyone know if there is an elevation setting for the DashCommand app? I want to make sure the PSI readouts I'm getting are as accurate as possible.

 

You shouldn't need to enter any elevation settings. The car has a barometric sensor to correct for elevation/weather conditions.

CALC.BOOST_PRESSURE is (SAE.MAP - SAE.BARO)

 

Ok, thanks

 

Well I contacted Palmer and was told to step up my response timeout to 1000ms. I'm still not getting my AFR,gear,boost etc.....
When I get back home they want me to send them a tech log...

 

I decided to go with a permanently installed iPhone 6+ for my DashCommand interface. Since I have never used the CD Player I cut the plastic face off of it so that could flush mount the phone directly to the dash. The actual CD player is still there.

Currently I only have it attached with double-sided tape, but I'll be printing out a better adapter plate on the 3D printer at work. Or maybe something like this (pricey though and good fabrication skills would be needed):

http://www.soundmanca.com/products/p...ide-slider-kit

The LEDs that used to illuminate the CD slot now can be seen backlighting the phone, I might tone this down a little when I make the adapter plate.

Overall I'm happy with how it turned out, had to disassemble most of the center part of the dash and the radio/CD player module itself. Now that I know how, I can do it in 15 minutes.

I also need to modify the DashCommand screen with the MINI matching orange color.

 

Here is what I use for my 6+ works great and able to angle it to see better.

 

cerenkov - very nice touch, I think you nailed it..... I think the kicker would be to make it tilt out so you can still use the CD player....lol
How is the update time with the 6 ? I was thinking about a small pad with usb to keep the smoother trends

well now I know who has a 3D printer.....lolol

 

Thanks. With fabrication skills you could have it tilt down, the CD player is functional (have to figure out the eject button). Hmmm.

One thing is that it's almost an automatic process when I get in the car. I just slide to unlock, tap the app icon if it is not already running and it automatically connects and starts displaying data. Normally every thing is active in 10-15 seconds with very little input from me.

A neat feature is that if you keep it plugged in, which it is since the idea is for it to be permanently installed, Siri will activate by just saying "Hey Siri...ask the question" so I can also use it as a hands free nav system, etc. eventually I also plan on streaming music.

I'll do a log tonight to see how the updates are and post back with the graphs.

 

Here's a log with the DashCommand iPhone 6+ and OBDlink WIFI. It is still drastically stair-stepped. It has to do with how DashCommand logs data (this is more evident when looking at the tabulated data). I'm going to send Palmer Performance an email and ask if there is a way to log more like ScanXL.

BTW, I was NOT logging timing advance or ambient temp during this run.

 

I hope you get a reply faster then I did. I'm still waiting on advice from a file i sent them on why my boost,gear etc isn't working....lol

Sounds like you are going to have a nice setup when you get it all together.

 

Does anyone have a list of the settings to change on initial setup?Do I assume the adapter is needed with the wifi?

 

You can use the PLX kiwi2 or most any ELM327 wifi compliant device (these can be had for well under $50) that plugs into the OBD2 port for DashCommand to work. Yes you do need one or the other.

The DashCommand install manual walks you through the process of getting it to connect.

Does this help? Or can you clarify what you need.

 

Did you hear back from Palmer ??
I sent them another email and still have not.....

 

Sorry, I totally forgot. I just now posted the question on both the Palmer and the Scantool forum. In the past they have been good at responding.

 

Palmer sent links below
Does anyone know vehicle specific details; Brake specific, Volumetric efficiency, Lambda actual commanded, final drive train ratios, Drag coefficients, Frontal area, Max engine speed, Min, shift point, speed correction. In auto specifics?

Hello,
Here is a link to our WiFi setup guide as well as our trouble shooting guide, please follow the steps and enter the parameters exactly as shown.
http://www.palmerperformance.com/dow...etup_Guide.pdf
http://www.palmerperformance.com/dow...ting_Guide.pdf
Have a great day,
Andy

 

Most if not all of this information is listed in this thread.

 

Originally Posted by pepperwhiteknight
Yes definitely. We would also have to agree on a test method too. Ex: flat land, 3rd gear, 3000 rpm to red line, 5 runs take the average. Regardless of the validity of the hp and torque calculations of the app any assistance would be appreciated in picking the best numbers for...
• brake specific fuel consumption (most confusing because it is not really a constant)
• Drag coefficients
• Frontal area
The brake specific fuel consumption setting adjusts the hp and torque calculation up and down. Per this post, "Our horsepower calculation relies on the BSFC setting and the calculated fuel flow (which uses MAF, or MAP and VE is MAF isn't available). Increasing the BSFC setting will lower the calculated HP". If nothing is entered it defaults to 0.44 (I get crazy high numbers. ex: 248 hp and 282 ft-lbs). Palmer recommends 0.50 to 0.60 for turbo charged cars (I have been using 0.50 and the numbers seem plausible. ex: 202 hp and 208 ft-lbs). Only found one article listing the minimum BSFC as, "348g/kWh at 2000rpm/2bar BMEP". I think this converts to 0.57 lb/hph. This page gives general BSFC numbers for different types of engines.

My Dashcommand iOS vehicle settings:
Engine displacement: 1598cc (owner manual)
Fuel type: Gasoline
Fuel tank capacity: 13.2 gal (owner manual)
Brake specific fuel consumption: .50
Tire size specification: 205/45R17
Final drive ratios: (NAM VIN Decoder)
• Axle ratio: 3.65
• 1st gear: 3.31
• 2nd gear: 2.13
• 3rd gear: 1.48
• 4th gear: 1.14
• 5th gear: 0.95
• 6th gear: 0.82
• 7th gear: nothing entered
Curb weight: 2668 lb (owner manual)
Additional weight: 150 lb (my weight)
Drag coefficients: 0.36 (here)
Frontal area: 1.99 square meters (here)
Maximum engine speed: 6500 rpm
Minimum engine speed: 700 rpm

 

Thnx, is there a way around havin to get iPhone to recognize the ODB wifi?
I do have auto connect switched, it will ask if I want to connect since the ODB is not connected to the Internet. If left in the car the connection is fine but once the phone goes into the house, coffee shop it picks up other wifi. Ocassionally it will pick up the ODB right away but not normally.
Eventually I will get a newer phone & use the 4s for the car only.
& is there a way for Apple users to view the data, not having a PC to use the other software.

 

I'm not sure if you can set network priorities. I have an iPhone dedicated to the car and it does work how you want, but it is the only network that is "known".

To view the data on my MacBook I use:

1. VMWare Fusion

2. Bootcamp to Windows 7

You'll need a copy of windows. First setup bootcamp, then install fusion and it will use your existing bootcamp installation.

 

MAP ? is can be changed to calculation for Boost?
Is this the calc.boost_pressure
Short Trim fuel trim?
Engine Power?

Should above be changed to more usable data?
Thnx.

 

calc.boost_pressure is sae.MAP-sae.Baro. It accounts for atmospheric pressure. I prefer to use calc.boost_pressure.

Not sure what you your question is with regard to STFT or engine power? I do find that the engine power calc does not seem very accurate.

 

If you dyno the car so you know the output you can alter BSFC till the numbers are more accurate.

 

Thought I would keep this valuable thread alive since more people are logging these days especially when running various stage tunes. Today (stock tune) it was 100F+ and 20% humidity and thought I would log a run today once fully warmed up, I knew to expect trouble so I started logging. I ran the Dash Command log file on my computer running Scan-XL Pro because I had pinging event (fully expected!) during WOT which as you can see is a steep slope reaching 13.1 psi boost pressure, during this steep boost climb you'll see the AFR's stay pretty much flat at 14.5 during WOT.

This pinging happens whether it's cooler at night (75F and high humidity) or hot and dry like it was today. It starts out showing the point where I go into WOT and immediately my AFR shoots to 12.7 at -0.3 psi (frame 687) for a very, very short microsecond, then while still the steep slope continues to climb all the way to 13.1 psi, the AFR stays at 14.5 all the way from 2 psi to 13.1 psi!? This is when the pinging starts happening obviously because my AFR leans out when I need it to stay at 12.7 (rich), correct?

The log file even shows (last pictured graph) at one point my AFR at 12.7 with a negative boost pressure of -8.6 psi right after my WOT run, why would my AFR be so low (rich) when demand for power is at it's lowest? If anyone would like my log file sent to them for viewing please PM me with your email address unless I already have it.

Any help much appreciated!

Systemlord.

 

Hey SL,

Be glad to give you a hand. E-mail me your .lgf files and I'll take a look. Before you do I'd only ask that you make a few changes to your logging procedures that might help. I'd get rid of outside air temp. For logging purposes it's only useful for evaluating FMIC efficiency. Same goes for EGT, it's really only necessary when evaluating a new tune to ensure you don't overtemp the valves. After that's done as long as AFR is good then EGT should be within limits. Than I'd suggest adding FRP and Absolute Load. Load will give you an idea of what the ECU is asking for and monitoring FRP is always a good idea when evaluation AFR issues. I normally only log 7 or 8 PIDS at once to help keep the capture rate high. I've noted that with the iPhone 6 I can change the interval to 200ms or less and get a pretty decent capture rate about the same as ScanXL Pro. I think I need a new cable for my ScanXL as I'm not getting MAF on it at all.

 

when I was on dyno a few weeks back my actual AFR was pretty constant at 14.7 till the rpm went up as well as load and I was about 11.7-11.9 at wot in all 3 maps.

My reported AFR or demanded from ECU via the logs seems spot on with what actual wideband said.

I don't believe -6 PSI , maybe -6inches but -6 pounds would have collapsed your hoses.