North American Motoring - Early '07 R56 Needs Front Pads & Rotors

North American Motoring (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/)

- Tires, Wheels, & Brakes (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/tires-wheels-and-brakes-36/)

- - Early '07 R56 Needs Front Pads & Rotors (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/tires-wheels-and-brakes/196735-early-07-r56-needs-front-pads-and-rotors.html)

Early '07 R56 Needs Front Pads & Rotors

I put Powerslot rotors & EBC Greenstuff pads all 'round on my 2002 Cooper S & they lasted nearly 90,000 miles. Now it's time - so the dealer tells me - for new rotors and pads on the front of my 2007 S.

I don't do track stuff, this is strictly a daily transport vehicle albeit one that gives me more driving pleasure than every car I've owned since I parted with my 1965 Austin Cooper 1275 S back in 1969.

1.) If the pad wear warning light hasn't come on yet, do I need to replace the sensors?

2.) Is the rotor swap & pad fitting similar to what the earlier R53 required, save for the wear sensors? Same tools, same basic operations?

3.) The pistons can be retracted by pressure & don't require a "special tool" to rotate them to effect retraction?

I'd welcome links to "how to" posts or videos, as well as user experiences about different brands of rotors & pads to upgrade from OEM parts.

Dealer quoted $500+ to do this today & as I'm unemployed I have time to do it myself and am motivated to mitigate outgoing cash flow... :thumbsup:

No idea on your questions as I haven't done any brake work yet on my 07 but these threads may help you.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d-install.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...placement.html

Quote:

Originally Posted by sp_clark (Post 3130275)

1) Check the sensors to see if the circuit has been bridged. It is not expensive if you mail order them, around $19 each If you want to reuse them, be careful not to crack them.

2) Steps are similar.

3) I use a 6" C clamp and a small piece of 1/2" plywood to retract the front pistons and a tool from Harbor Freight to turn and retract the back ones.

I do not like the stock Mini pad feel. You can buy rotors/pads from almost anyone but I look at this website: www.autoxcooper.com. He carries carbotechs which are a little expensive but I like the modulation on them.

Thanx Minidrivr, I'll be looking at those in a moment....

Slinger688, so a "special tool" is needed for the rear pistons but NOT the front? That's reassuring. I have time before I'll need to do the rears, they were done not that many miles ago. I've used Powerslot rotors & EBC Greenstuff pads with great experience in the past, but I'm aware there are more options now. Pad sensors are new to me.

AND, thanks for the link to autocooper.com! Turns out their Euro Shop is about 45 minutes from where I live! I just got off the phone with Dustin & learned a lot about what I may need to pay attention to about how these cars change with age & mileage.

I changed my 07-S to EBC pads as soon as they came available, reply based on that experience - but that was also 3 years ago . . .

1.) If the pad wear warning light hasn't come on yet, do I need to replace the sensors?

as you know our 02's didn't have the sensors. The sensor is a consumable but if the sensor did not activate it has not been consumed and may be re-used. Carefully pull it out of the slot on the inner left front and right rear pad and slide into slot on the new pads.

2.) Is the rotor swap & pad fitting similar to what the earlier R53 required, save for the wear sensors? Same tools, same basic operations?

Yes - the new one doesn't need the allen socket - uses straight hex bolts and the pads don't have as many clips/clamps and wiz bangs. All in all easier IMHO. To move a sensor to a new pad requires no tools.

3.) The pistons can be retracted by pressure & don't require a "special tool" to rotate them to effect retraction?

Fronts straight press but so far as I know the rears still use the same e-brake technology and would require a turning press. I replaced when brand new so need no more press back than I could do with my fingers was needed. If you see holes for a tool to drop into on the piston that would be a clue . . . I'm 90% sure you still need to turn the rears

BUT BUT BUT - do NOT be surprised to find that the dealer is telling you this based on miles with absolutely NO visual check to verify. My dealer told me I absolutely needed new pads when I'd changed them myself within the past 6 months. He'd looked at my miles, saw I was out of pre-pay maint' then the computer, saw no pad change and told me WARNING WARNING :eek2: .

Most of us bend quickly to a tale of bad brakes. Comparing notes with fellow owners I found several who'd had the same experience. Fortunately I no longer have that dealer as my close by guy.

It is very very easy to do a quick visual on your pads - with many MINI wheels you can look thru the wheel without pulling it.

I've many posts with pictures of what you need to look for . . .

p.s.2 - seeing your financial situation: altho MINI says replace the pads every pad change; I have found that driving as you describe you can usually get two sets of pads to a set of rotors with no problems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sp_clark (Post 3130417)

No special tool for the fronts.

I have not used either Powerslot or EBC greens to be able to comment on those. While I am not suggesing this as an alternative, I just zipped tied the brake sensors to the shocks so I don't have to change it with every pad change. Keep in mind I change brake pads maybe 20 + times a year depending what I am doing with the car. I just check the pads often.