Oil Filter: What's the trick?
 

My oil change was going just peachy yesterday, all the way up to the point of reinstalling the oil filter. That is when all progress ground to a halt. For five hours yesterday (stop laughing :)), I could not, for the life of me, get the filter casing to thread correctly. Finally giving up, due to lack of light and feeling in my fingers, I now prepare to get my car running today.

Hoping to minimize my time under the bonnet on this lovely 31 degree F day, I am stopping here to ask: What's the trick to getting that $#$@%@#$#$%@$# filter back on?

Disclosure: While not a gearhead, I am not clueless in dealing with cars. Believe me when I say, as a motorist, leaving myself stranded (In my garage anyway.) due to an oil change, and having to post such a basic, simple question is truly a hang my head, die in shame (tm) moment for me.:nod:

This is an issue with the snug-fitting stock OEM filters. Most people will press the filter element into the canister then attempt to screw the canister onto the engine block adaptor. The problem is, at the point of where the threads begin to engage, the standpipe in the adaptor begins to enter the filter, making the lining up of the threads difficult because of the snug fit. I recommend that people first push the filter's small end (with the plastic ring) into the engine block adaptor to 'open up' that end of the filter, then pull the filter element back out and install it normally into the canister before threading the whole assembly in place. This goes a long way in making the critical point of engaging the threads much easier since you are not fighting the filter onto the standpipe at the same time.

An alternative is to use a NAPA filter which comes with solid plastic filter ends with integral rubber o-rings instead of the OEM filter with the foamed plastic ends. THe problem with the OEM style is that you need to force the filter fully onto both standpipes to make the holes in the ends concentric, the filter tends to resist this at first, which makes the canister **** while trying to get it all lined up. 'stretching' the holes in the ends prior to assembling goes a long way towards alleviating this confounding problem.

Note that the filter element fits very snug on the standpipes, and will need to be twisted off the pipes when removing. It will feel 'stuck' at first. Stretching the holes prior to installation does not degrade the fit or seal of the filter on the standpipes.

Thanks for the info. Problem is, I cannot get the canister to thread even without the filter. I am going to try your advice, as starting the filter on the block is the only thing I have not tried.

This is reassuring. I should be able to use the filter I was working with yesterday then.

Thanks again. I going to get cold now. I'll post back later.

Thanks for that tip Greatbear. I'll try that next time. I only struggled for 15 minutes. . . sometimes it goes right on, sometimes it gives me trouble.

You'd think something with the chunkiest threads I have ever seen would go on easy as a jar lid

I know there is a spring loaded (valve?) dohickey in there. Does the cannister thread lightly, or should I apply force toward the block when threading it? Also, when threaded correctly, how much resistance is there when tightening. I don't want to force anything if it is misaligned, but maybe I've had it right but backed off not wanting to "force" anything.

Just stopped back to tape up the thumb. Back to having at it.

It does take a good amount of force to get it back on, since the threads are so large its not that easy to cross thread.

The canister should thread up easily with no filter installed. The problem usually comes from not getting it perfectly square before turning it, and the flatted areas of the thread (which are there because of the diecasting process) tend to make the canister lid 'tip' right before thread engagement making the threads clash instead of lining up. Try to get familiar with the orientation of the lid by installing it without the filter and the o-ring. If it flat out refuses to line up, look for damage on the threads on both the canister lid and the housing on the block (the latter needs a little mirror and flashlight to inspect). If the threads were damaged during a prior oil change, it might be possible to 'tune them up' with a small file. Make sure to clear up any chips after doing so.

Without any filter or o-ring, the canister should spin on as easy as a jar lid.

Still pecking away. I'll try it w/out the O ring. All threads appear undamaged. (Checked the block by feel. No mirror). I'm sure I must be doing something to make this more difficult than it needs to be. I'll post back.


BTW: thx for all the replies. You guys rock. :thumbsup:

I feel your pain..
 

and screwed up worse the first time. I tore a bunch of a tread off, had to file the case, bitching all the time...

Here are some other things to help...

with your finger, feel for where the first thread starts on the filter mount. Mine is at near verticle.

First time, take off the o-ring, and with no filter, get a feel for where the threads just engage. I found that by turning backwards, I could feel the "clunk" an it ligned up. With no filter, and no o-ring, things should turn pretty easily.

Next, repeat with just the o-ring. This is where you need to take your time, as for me, the o-ring needs some force right as the threads engage. As you do this, make mental images of the rotation of the houseing. I could use one of the lines where the casting moulds separated to see the rotational angle where engagement really happens. I could also use a finger nail to feel the 0-ring grouve to feel if it was really cocked.

Then, put the filter on the housing, and press that sucker on hard. I didn't try the trick with doing the same thing on the filter mount, sounds like a good plan.

Now you're ready to do it for real. Go slow. What sucks is the o-ring getting properly seated and the thread starting to tear feels awful similar (don't as me how I know). If you're worried, back it off, and check the thread on the houseing. If it's starting to go, you'll see that as a crack at the base of the thread. IF that does happen, get a file, and clean it up, and make sure to get all the metal filings out (don't ask me how I know this either!).

Yesterday I did an oil change again. Thread started to tear, caught it much earlier this time. Only took as long to get the frigging housing on as it did to do the rest of the oil change! Crappy part in my book.

And you're not alone on this one....

Matt

Next, when you're happy with that

You might try this;
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=58600

It hasn't been mentioned in this thread, but you should lube both ends of the filter and the o-ring with a little oil. Jjust dip your finger in the bottle of oil and spread on a thin layer at all contact points, especially the o-ring. This is important and makes the job easier. Take your time and get it right. Everybodies first oil change on a MINI is definetly a learning experience.

Good Luck.

BTW-When reinstalling the drain plug, DON'T over tighten it. The pan is aluminum and the threads could strip out the next time you change the oil.

Ok
 

First off, let me thank everyone for taking the time. Your posts got me through this.

Second: Driving a car with fresh oil feels so nice.

Third: Here's what I did. Taking Greatbear's advice, I tried the bare canister. No Oring, no filter. As promised, it spun home on the first shot like the lid to a mayonaise jar. I took it off and put it on several times this way to get the feel for how the canister sits in relation to the block when correctly threaded.

Next I tried the canister with the filter. (No O-ring) This was to get a feel for how much resistance there was when tightening the filter. Rinse. Repeat a couple of time to get the feel for that.

Finally, with all the pieces in place, I get the canister on. It feels like it is threaded correctly, but it stops after a half turn. This is where I was making my error. I was expecting to hand tighten the canister until the last quarter turn or so, but that is not the case. Quick trip to the hardware store for a half inch ratchet later and I learn that it required just a bit more force than what I could apply by hand to tighten the canister all the way down. Fill with oil, run up to temp, check for leaks, and I am good to go.


Having neither the tools or knowhow to recover from a mishap, I did not want to end up in a predicament like that detailed by Dr Obnxs. However, I am now intimately acquianted with my oil filter canister. :eek:

I realize this is a bit late to help you but I put a light coat of
grease on the O-ring and the housing threads when I do mine.
It does make it go on a bit easier, especially at the point where
it feels like it is in a bind or cross-threaded.

Glad you got it sorted out.

I even torqued it to 31 Nm. The canister seemed to but up against the block and go no further. Torque wrench won't fit in there so I snugged it up and will watch for any drips/leaks. 25 Nm isn't very tight.

Don't worry too much about the torque. It's the O-ring that
seals it.

^^^ +1 we already went over this many times. :)

I've noticed that the Hengst filters I have been buying from my local supplier don't require the same shenanigans as the OEM filters...

true
 

I was wondering it the aftermarket filterhousing are any easier.

I am going to have to check out the "NAPA" filters.
They just sound to be better enginered.

Following kenchan's advice of lining up the flat area of the threads on the canister and the flat area of the threads on the block has made this job easy! :thumbsup:

Au contraire. I have found the filter insert of the MINI to be easier
and less messy than the cannister type filters I have been changing
on my cars for over 35 years. I just changed my oil last week and
it was a breeze; not a drop spilled anywhere and the filter housing
threaded back on with no problem whatsoever.