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-   -   Lowering Sub-frame - not removing (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/300496-lowering-sub-frame-not-removing.html)

BucksCountyR57 03-17-2016 08:31 AM

Lowering Sub-frame - not removing
 
1 Attachment(s)
Hello everyone, I tried researching this on here but came up with nothing. Actually, I'm lying, I did see it posted but someone just said to remove the whole subframe instead of lowering it and that was the end of the thread.
I am looking to replace my front stabilizer bar bushings. I've been noticing a knock when going over small bumps. To confirm this, I have the car up on 4 jack stands and felt that there was some side to side play in the bar that would make the same knock. Therefore, I'll get to know my mini a bit more intimately and bushings are cheap so I will start there before going into more expensive things.

The Bentley manuals recommends to lower it when doing this job, so that is what I am intending to do. 1st off. Has anyone lowered the sub-frame as opposed to removing it? If so, what are some points of advice you can send my way?

Outside of this group, I found the attached PDF. Not mine, I did not create it...I found it on another site (motoring alliance).


But in comparison to what the Bentley manual says, I can't help but think there are some things missing. I know Bentley doesn't separate lowering from removing...they almost expect to you know the differences :confused:

For those of you who have lowered it....do you still need to remove the pinch bolt from the steering column as well as drop the entire exhaust system from the cat on back to the muffler and front bumper?

Anyway, I think this is a good place to start the conversation. As I take this on at my own pace, I plan on adding pics here and there. Given that I am also remodeling a room to a nursery :grin: I plan on taking my sweet as* time with this.

Thanks in advance for the advice and tips!

PelicanParts.com 03-17-2016 08:50 AM

Lots of people attempt to just lower it instead of removing it in order to replace their front sway bar bushings. See if the last 4 posts in this thread HERE may be helpful.

BucksCountyR57 03-17-2016 10:31 AM

Thanks! I wish I could see the pictures tho

OldHoopsJunkie 11-07-2017 04:50 AM


Originally Posted by PelicanParts.com (Post 4187908)
Lots of people attempt to just lower it instead of removing it in order to replace their front sway bar bushings. See if the last 4 posts in this thread HERE may be helpful.

Maybe you didn't read the answers you cited. Every one of them answered a different question than the question about the sway bar bushings. They all talked about the control arm bushings, which is a more complicated job. The original questioner even asked it again, and received very sincere answers to the wrong question.

The question is whether the SWAY BAR (not CONTROL BAR) bushings can be replaced without taking half the car apart. Do you know the answer?

I managed to do another job which required lowering the front subframe some months ago, and I don't recall whether I had to pull off the front bumper stuff before lowering the subframe a few inches. It sure would be helpful to see a procedure.

This is a common maintenance item at 50k miles, and every response I find seems to want to reply about the control arms. Maybe nobody understands the difference. Is that it?

I'm still hoping to receive an answer to that question.

Tigger2011 11-07-2017 10:49 AM

Remove pinch bolt...yes.
Remove bumper... no.
Remove the bolts that attach the subframe extension to the bumper on the back side of the bumper. Remove the four bolts you would normally remove from the subframe to put it in service mode but slide the forward extensions backward about 1/2 an inch.

dnsherrill 02-28-2018 12:56 PM


Originally Posted by Tigger2011 (Post 4342766)
Remove pinch bolt...yes.
Remove bumper... no.
Remove the bolts that attach the subframe extension to the bumper on the back side of the bumper. Remove the four bolts you would normally remove from the subframe to put it in service mode but slide the forward extensions backward about 1/2 an inch.

-----
Noob- old thread resurrect:
.......
the 'pinch bolt' is at the steering column/rag joint, above the rack? is it necessary to secure the steering wheel with seat belt so as to preserve functionality of the clock spring?
...
the 'subframe extension'...aka crash tubes?

Tigger2011 02-28-2018 01:35 PM


Originally Posted by dnsherrill
-----
Noob- old thread resurrect:
.......
the 'pinch bolt' is at the steering column/rag joint, above the rack? is it necessary to secure the steering wheel with seat belt so as to preserve functionality of the clock spring?
...
the 'subframe extension'...aka crash tubes?

Correct. A little C clamp with a bolt through it right above the floor behind the brake pedal. Make sure the wheels are straight before starting. You can secure the wheel, mark the column with tape or just make sure you dont move the wheel. You can even secure the rack and pinion from moving by inserting a bolt and safety wiring it so it cant move after its down. Entirely up to you on how far you secure things.

Crash tubes are on the forward side of the radiator bulkhead and connect to the frame box. Pop the hood and you can see them. These are lower down between the radiator bulkhead and sub-frame. Cant miss them as they have two vertical bolts per side securing them to the subframe and if i remember correctly three bolts each securing them on the front end.

squawSkiBum 02-28-2018 10:45 PM

see this thread: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...trol-arms.html

I went through this last weekend. Your sig says you have a Gen1 so your experience may be different. My advice: make sure you have all the necessary tools and then drop the entire subframe. Sometimes shortcuts work. In my experience, not for this job.

gumbedamit 03-01-2018 07:21 AM

I lowered my GEN1 sub-frame to replace the LCA bushings and to replace the inner ball joints. I started out thinking that I was going to just drop the whole thing, but the steering knuckle bolt was proving to be a PITA, so I just lowered it, worked out well for what I needed to get done.


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