Mini wont go into first... or second
 

So 2 weeks ago mini quit going into first. Felt like there's a wall there. I called a local mechanic, who said that its the synchro, but that synchros are back ordered, so he cant fix it.
Last week its quit going into second. Sometimes it'll do it if I pull really hard. Sometimes when I downshift it'll grind. Sometimes if I'm doing about 10 miles an hour and rev it a little it slips right in.
Yesterday when I was at a stop light, I had the clutch in, transmission was in 3rd, and the car was creeping forward.
So I dunno?
Maybe it could be the clutch? The synchro? When I checked the reservoir this am it was above "fill"
I don't want to get rid if the car... I'm a fair parts replacer but I suck at troubleshooting, so thanks in advance
C

Does it go into 1st or 2nd gear if the car isn't running?

If it's moving with the clutch in, and not just rolling downhill, your clutch isn't working right for some reason(clutch bad or fluid)

You can see if it's a fluid issue by checking to see if the slave cylinder is moving when you step on the clutch

It goes in fine (usually) when the engine is off.
So to see the slave cylinder, I have to pull the fresh air box, yes?

Mod mini is the best!

sweet thanks!
I'll check tm morning

Its wet!
 

so I checked the slave cylinder. Its wet underneath. gf activated the clutch both while the engine was running and when it wasn't. It looked fine, but she said it felt different.
I used a crowbar when she activated the clutch with the engine off to see if I could push it further. I could, but I'll bet it wasn't even an extra 1/4 inch, and I had to push really hard.
I heard a hum when the engine was running and the clutch was activated. It sounded like the hum in my VW.

So whats the difference between a slave cylinder and a master cylinder?
I'm ordering one from rock auto... I didn't even know there was such a thing as a master cylinder for a clutch.
where is it?

You need something to hold the fluid for the clutch. The slave cylinder just pushes the shift fork.

If you watch the video again, mod mini shows you exactly where the master cylinder is, for the Mini it's part of the brake master cylinder.

On a VW (bug bus ghia type 3) the reservoir is up top (like a small bucket), and its attached to the master cylinder about a foot underneath by two hoses (or one, depending on the year).
So how do I know it isn't the master cylinder?
BTW... thanks a lot guys. Gf said I was gonna have to sell it if I coudnt fix it. It scares her

Did you say the slave cylinder is wet?

If so, that is your problem. The video I linked shows you how to bleed it, so make sure you pay close attention to it because if you don't get all the air out your clutch will not work.

If the slave cylinder is wet, you more than likely have a bad seal in there. The video shows you where it is, be sure to bleed the system well. The other option in terms of the failure is if the bleeder screw is loose or the hose between is leaking, that will make the slave wet as well. I haven't messed with the clutch in mine yet, so am uncertain whether the line to the slave is a hard line or not.
HTH

Over time, there can be a failure or break-down of the system if the slave or master cylinder get old and begin to leak or fail. A spongy feel to the clutch pedal, grinding of gears when shifting, long pedal travel, and hydraulic leaks under the car are all signs that one or more components of the system have failed. Cooper or Cooper S? Replacement of the slave cylinder on the Cooper S is a snap. Its location is easy to get to from underneath the car. Get under your MINI and check for any leaks. We have a DIY that can help you HERE. Have them HERE if needed.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...bed297b799.jpg

So the slave cylinder has a leak at the bottom and he grease / oil you show it the pic is from oiling the pivot point on the top of the transmission correct ?

Slave Cylnder removal - still not sure
 

So the slave cylinder is disconnected from the transmission.
I cleaned underneath, then felt all around. Its not wet.
Dang.
I'm really hoping it was bypassing internally.
How do I get the battery box out? I removed the bolts, but its held in place by two wire bundles fore and aft. I tried disconnecting them from the electronic box inside the battery box; couldn't do it.
Before I install the cylinder, I wanted to ask; whats the vent-looking covered tube thing on top of the transmission? It pulled right out, and I cleaned it, then found there was an arrow. Which way is it supposed to point upon installation? Is there supposed to be an O Ring on it too? Because I found that some of the ick close to the top of it was hard, almost like an old hardened O ring.
Thanks all,
C

why does the slave cylinder affect 1st gear first?
 

On my mustang and my VWs (all old, all manual) when the clutch starts to go it affects ALL the gears.
Why is it that first gear is affected first when the slave cylinder starts to go? I would have thought it would make it hard for ALL gears to shift into?
Thanks!
C

Check your transmission shift cable under the air box. They tend to break

Thats a vent cap for the transmission, just snap it back in. Its just vents , that it.


The battery box have a couple bolts on the bottom that are hard to get out and sometimes rusted. Hit them with PB blaster and watch they don't spin, I had to cut a box out that the bolts seized in.

Check those cables on top of the transmission.

Diagram

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=61_1509

R50 or R53? We have an article specific to the R50 battery box removal on our site if needed. A bad slave can inhibit grinding of gears when shifting, not just in first. On the MINI, the spherical end joints at the transmission end are held by a rubber mount that can wear out and eventually tear away from the shift cable. The one's on our R53, the rubber surrounding the spherical end on the cable had worn away almost to this point. If it had separated, it could have rendered the gearshift useless. We have another DIY under tech info that can help you gain access to them. It may be good to inspect them to make sure there is no damage.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...d0660609b7.jpg

So its a beautiful day, and I'm trying to bleed the clutch.
I bled it (2 weeks ago when it was nice) reinstalled the cylinder on the clutch arm, and pushed on the clutch. Straight to the floor, and it didn't come back up. I removed it from the clutch arm, bled it again, and now its not coming up even when there'e no bubbles.
So now what?
Also... this is the slave cylinder I removed from the car. Kinda nasty.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...1fa8c58651.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...b4080ec67d.jpg

So is the slave cylinder working and pushing on the fork, or is there fork damage in the bell housing, did you look in the bell housing form the slave cylinder hole ?

It pushes on the fork but stays down.
I looked inside the fork hole (heh heh) and it seems fine. The fork is pretty tough to push down, but comes back easy.

Ok, And it pivots and returns very close to the bell housing, just trying to figure out , it maybe the master cylinder or booster. So replaced both master and slave cylinders ?

I've only replaced the slave cylinder. The master cylinder seems ok.
I bled it again today. It seemed fine. Then I installed it on the transmission, pushed down, and it was squishy.
I ordered a new slave cylinder. This one was from rock auto, so they're replacing it for free; I'm also ordering one from Napa. Their's is an altron.
Wish me luck!

Yeah maybe you just got a crappy slave. Good luck

Yea, bad cylinder. Just watch ordering from RA, some of there part cross refs. are wrong and the parts might not be the best quality.

Good luck.