Roof problem already!
 

I love my 2010 convertable but only 24 hours old and the convertable latch on the passenger side doesn't unlatch. Reading other posts I see that may be a common problem. Obviously under warranty but the dealer is 50 miles away. Lucky for the good gas milage! My first post. I hope the next is a happy one.:thumbsup:

Followup of faulty roof latch.
 

After two hour in the shop, the service mgr decided that a new roof motor was needed. Seems kind of extreme for a sticky roof latch but it's under warranty (less than 500 mi). Everything else is running like a top. Love it!:nod:

There are multiple motors. I wonder if they replaced the one that pulls the top back in "sunroof mode"? Diagram is at link below.

I have really enjoyed my R57!! Happy Motoring!!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...07&hg=54&fg=10

Holy crap! Not only am I reviving a ~7 year thread, but I need to point something out here.

The below link to www.realoem.. has the R57 Drive Unit F Folding Sliding Roof for $244.33

Mini of Kennesaw has the exact same part for $1274.86 - boasting that their parts are only 10% over invoice.
http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com/show...category=17337

What on earth is that all about?

I've never found RealOEM's prices to have any bearing on reality.

So are you saying they don't actually sell the stuff at the advertised price? $244.33 is ~$30 less than I paid for a used R57 Drive Unit. :eek2:

No, i don't even consider the prices at all. I have no idea where they come from besides maybe out of thin air?
My point is, compare the actual vendors prices and ignore realOEM's fantasy numbers.

I am going to bring our Mini S to work tomorrow, so i can mess with the roof. Have any of you had experience in syncing the locking/folding cables on an R57 roof?

RealOEM does not actually sell parts and the prices there seem to be all over the place. Parts for my 2003 BMW are always found for less that what RealOEM lists. But usually opposite for my 2008 MINI.

I am having little luck. I was able to get the cables synced up so they unlock at the same time when opening the roof, but now the roof is not going back far enough. it is hitting the role bar, instead of going out past it, then tightening up. Then as soon as I start bringing the roof back up, the jaws lock, both of them, and won't unlock until I get it to reset.

Super frustrating!

Found something missing..
 

This dang top is driving me crazy. I have gotten it to lock both sides when the top is open, but the top is not tight against the roll bar so the green light flashing/dinging, lock symbol on the steering wheel remains in effect. If I keep it going til it does go tight up against the roll bar, the passenger side comes unlocked for some stupid reason. I began adjusting the landing/interlock, and found that a piece is missing from that area.

And now the drivers side is locked open and the passenger is not, but the jaw is locked, and the top is stuck open...

Ok, I can get the top to lock on both sides, albeit with the roof not all the way up to the roll bar. I have found that if I do not retract it all the way to the roll bar, I can put the roof up and down just as it should work.
But if I stay on the switch, and pull the roof all the way tight to the roll bar, something is off, and the roof will lock open. It won't release and move back - total PITA.
So what I want to know, is if there is a way to get the audio chime to quit. Is there a fuse that can be pulled?

The prices on jan 1st on this part shot up a bunch as new prodcution landed from the supplier. The prices on realoem are not accurate and up to date. Its just an average price and sometimes only updated one a year if that. The price last year was around $400 and the price the year before that was $280 ish. I have seen this happen before on some parts like the HPFP, where the part cost changes as a new production run lands in the states.

Hope that helps.

Well, after further research, and using this page as a reference:

http://workshop-manuals.com/mini/coo...rams/page_111/

I believe that the missing part, as depicted in the first of the 2 pics I posted, is indeed a Hall sensor - specifically "Hall Sensor - main pillar stored". That makes total sense, actually.
Now, where to find a replacement...