While I'm at it.........I found the inner CV boot on the passenger side torn and spewing black mung. So, I'm going to replace it......


The others are dry and seem to be in good shape.


If they are dry with no cracks/leakage, does that mean they are ok, or, should I change them as part of preventive maintenance?


Seems like it's a fairly easy/inexpensive job.....

 

Does your boot look like this? This is mine and I'm replacing the entire passenger side axle this week. Yes, this is an inexpensive job, but very messy and time consuming. I'm letting a shop do it.

 

If they look good, I'd leave them alone. Both my inner boots tore last year, and I swapped them out, but the outer boots looked fine, and like they might have even been replaced at some point before I bought the car. I take a peek at them whenever I'm under the car, or changing/rotating tires just to make sure every thing looks good.

Rebooting is a simple job, and not as messy as I thought it would be. I used a big metal drip pan, with an open oil catch pan on top of that, combined with brake cleaner and a bunch of disposable shop rags. For me the hardest part was getting the clips back together so I could crimp them with pliers.

 

Just reboot them. When my crank pulley broke it took the passenger side CV boot with it. I happened to catch it before too much grease was lost. But the reboot kit comes with grease so no biggy. It's messy fun and your CV joints will thank you.

Crimping those clamps is a huge PITA, invest in a set of the side crimping pliers, they help a ton and only cost a few bucks. I was actually able to use hose clamps on the same side (I over crimped (?) it and the SOB snapped in half).

 

I did the boots on a 1/2 shaft and never again----with the low price of new axles I will not do boots----too aggravating and too messy----not worth the time and effort----just replace the axle.

 

$400+ dollar axles.,.. Yea, that's a cheap job. Completely not worth it.

I'm guessing eBay axles for you?

 

You can buy A1 Cardone axles for $65.00 that work and last as goof as oem. I get my from parts geek. You will need to keep your carrier and use it on the new axle.

 

I just looked and found these.

One of them appears to have the carrier bearing as well.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200..._assembly.html

 

Check out part#66-9280---a1 cardone right side at partsgeek. It has the bearing but you will need to transfer your carrier over.

 

Do you have the 1/2 shaft out yet? which side?

 

Nope.


Just found that the right side boot is cracked and leaking too. I'm changing both axle assemblies.

 

I gave you a parts geek part #---A1Cardone right axle so match the left side to it if you are doing Cardone----that is what I use----a suggestion----drop the dog bone (lower motor mount) it will give you more room to work on the right side----that top bolt on the carrier is a ***** to get back in and tight. Let me know how it goes. There is a video on youtube doing the axle change on a Copper that will help you. You need a 32MM socket to break the axle nut at the bearing on the hub. If you do not have someone to hold the brake knok the center piece from the wheel and put it back on the hub----break the wheel nut then remove the wheel and continue. By the way you will need to put 200lb on the wheel nut when you replace it

 

I actually bought both axles from my local OReilly.

They take great care of me.

I have the socket and I believe I'm all set to go.
Thanks.

 

Do you know the manufacturer of the axles? Good luck on the install.

 

They are called Master Pro remanufactured...... Limited lifetime warranty.


Thanks. The axles are tomorrow. The struts killed me.....

 

What was the problem with the struts?

 

Getting them in the steering knuckle........ Until I asked the question here........

 

I've replaced just the boots. It's easy to do, and saves a lot of money over buying new axles for $400+ each.

 

A1 Cardone reman axles aren't as good as OEM supplied axles.

Think about this:
You return a core axle to the company in exchange for the reman you purchased. Most of the time, the axle you turned in isn't in the best condition. But this company requests your old axle, regardless of condition, to continue providing this reman service for those who are looking for a replacement.

You think for $65 this company is going to machine or fit an inboard shaft to perfectly mate with the spider/roller assembly of the axle shaft? Or make sure the axle spins balanced after assembly? What you're getting is a pieced together axle from cores that were turned in with new boots and grease. That's why it's a hit or miss with these lower priced remans. Don't get me wrong, it's entirely possible to get an axle that's remanufactured well enough to get you by without any issues. If you don't, you can always exchange it using the store warranty...after doing the axle swap over again.

There's nothing wrong with this option to servicing an axle... It's Just a risky one.

 

My A1Cardone axle is new and I did not send back a core. I have bought parts with the BMW logo ground off for a 1/4 of the BMW price----you are paying a ton of money more for the name and BMW has done it for years. Take your Chevy in for work at your local Chevy dealer and then take your BMW into the BMW shop for the same work and your Chevy bill will be 3 to 4 times the cost for the same work at your BMW----been there done that----- and if you really want to get slammed go to your Porsche dealer for the same work----it is even higher. I am auto crossing the A1Carbone axle and no problems. The way I see it if they stand up to autox they will last a very long time for DD use. Only my opinion of course. Unless proven otherwise I will be staying with A1Carbone axles.

 

Two things to remember here the stock axles don't seem to let go like aftermarket ones do mine have 107,000 miles on them and I've never clicked once it's worth the investment to pay the $400 for the mini axles the $60 ones you'll get at a part store are going to last about six months to a year and then start making noise not to mention with an axle you want to make sure they are balanced correctly so you don't get any vibrations in the driveline Second you should check the wheelbearings anytime you pull an axle because now you have no pressure on the wheel bearing it all if you're going to replace the wheel bearing I would also recommend going with the mini wheel bearing as like I've said before I have 107,000 miles on my car with the original wheelbearings and they're quiet as mice I have done wheelbearings over and over again on peoples cars I know that insist on getting cheap ones and they last six months to a year just my two cents , you love the quality of these cars don't replace it with cheap parts or you end up in a British Hyundai

 

My response was only regarding A1Cardone and OEM Supplied axles. Anything Outside of that is irrelevant and a different topic to discuss. Everyone is free to maintain their car any way they like. But there's no comparing an A1cardone axle to an OEM Supplied version. That's all.