2012 R60 N18 oil filter housing.

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Aug 13, 2022 | 09:59 AM
  #1  
Purchased the car used, 76,000 with the oil leak.
And now am tackling the leak. As I am reassembling the engine I noticed a small crack on the original housing. So ordered a replacement. Which brings me to my problem. The new housing is not fitted with a pressure switch.
is this normal? Should I just order another new one from a different vendor? Or should i just install it? If i do would that leave me in Limp Mide? Which then brings me to, how am I to know the pressure without the switch? Is there a MOD...




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Aug 13, 2022 | 11:39 AM
  #2  
Oil filter housing
Also, I forgot to mention, on the new housing without the pressure switch the port although was molded on and shies signs of being removed and ground down. It was not fully ported into the housing.

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Aug 13, 2022 | 05:28 PM
  #3  
Update
Did the install, obviously being there's no pressure switch, I don't get a oil pressure LED or code.

Originally i had received P0524 Low Oil Pressure, and since it had a oil leak that was obvious. And also P0014 VVT retarded (A). Replacing the Oil Filter Housing repaired the oil leak and I no longer have (A) retarded Mini.

But now I get I get P0597 "Thermostat Heater Control Circuit/Open". Followed with, stalled cold start, rough idle, hesitation at acceleration almost like it's misfiring. No other MIL or DTC appear.

I had already replaced the plugs and coil packs. Maybe the Mini is retarded.....
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Aug 14, 2022 | 04:46 AM
  #4  
Where did you get the replacement housing? The earlier N14 engines did not use an oil pressure sensor/switch on the housing, the later N18 engines do. Looks like the one that was sent to you is the earlier version. You’re going to want to get the proper housing and refit the sensor.
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Aug 14, 2022 | 03:42 PM
  #5  
Re
Yeah got the housing off Amazon, obviously the fitment guide has some flaws....

And replacing this one is definitely on the to do list. But being this is my daily driver and i was in a pinch to get the job done before work monday i have to make due.

But as for the stall and hesitations i was getting, turned out to be the HPFP... odd there is no DTC for it...

And being i now have the P0597 thermostat code, the plan is to tackle the correct housing at the same time I replace the thermostat housing... next weekend.

But for a quick repair, as far as it goes with the firing everything is smooth again, minus not having the pressure switch. But it does seem to lack the take off acceleration.
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Feb 27, 2023 | 08:08 PM
  #6  
If you don’t mind me asking, where on the filter housing did you find the slight crack? I have a 2013 CM All4S (Dec 2012 build ) and I’m dealing with a leak. Thought it was the oil filter housing seals/cooler seals, but I could not find a smoking gun when I removed it from the car. Base on the pattern, it looked like the return oil turbo line had failed, but it was not the case. The feed line did not look like it was leaking and was not loose, however the dark grime was heavy in the area of the feed lined and return like at the block/housing end.

did you end up putting the bay in service mode to do the work? Any pictures/pointers you could share re: service mode?

I appreciate your response.


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Mar 3, 2023 | 01:25 PM
  #7  
Here are the correct parts:

N14 Engines:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/11428643749/



N18 engines.


https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...r/11428643745/





I have never seen one crack on the metal, its most of the time a the plastic cap cracks or there is a leak in the oil cooler or oil cooler to housing connection.



Oil filter housing DIY

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...et-repair.html




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