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-   -   R56 Oil Level and Dipstick (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/r56-hatch-talk-2007/229465-oil-level-and-dipstick.html)

phattyduck 05-17-2012 04:48 PM


Originally Posted by lisajt (Post 3513743)
I have checked it each time warm and will try and remember to check it cold in the am tomorrow. I do feel like this is an accomplishment though. Been struggling with this for a while now. Just hope the level is accurate.

You gotta do the in-out-in-out thing (cleaning each time, never fully inserting the dipstick) until the dipstick is clean, then check it. Otherwise, you are just reading oil in the dipstick tube.

Rolling the stock one on a paper towel will allow you to see the level very clearly. The only hassle is the extra 30 seconds of 'cleaning' the dipstick tube before the real test of the level.

-Charlie

Notawagonwife 05-17-2012 04:57 PM

Thanks so much for your help-appreciate it!

JoanieB 05-17-2012 06:10 PM

phattyduck, may I politely disagree with your post above? From your signature, you have an 08... with the newer MINIs in particular, the problem is that pulling the stick out, wiping it, inserting it again and checking the level, is that when you first pull it out, the bulbous top of the gauge drags oil up the channel.... so if you reinsert it right away, and try to read it, the level is not always clear. SO.. good advice from OceanMINI is to pull the dipstick... wipe it, lay it somewhere safe for twenty minutes to let the oil drain back down the channel, THEN reinsert it and pull out to take your reading. The level is MUCH more accurate and easy to read that way! (and the engine should be warm, it won't cool off that much in 20 minutes) OceanMINI, if I have misinformed please speak up! But this method did work well, based on your advice. :-)

JoanieB 05-17-2012 06:20 PM

Notawagonwife, perhaps what you are confused about is when you should change it, and who would be doing the changing?

You want to check it every week or two... you can catch problems early that way. When you reach 5,000 to 7,500 miles, you will want to pay for an oil change or do it yourself. DON'T take it to some Oil and Lube cheapo place... they won't have the right filter or oil. If you want to do it yourself, there are multiple threads on this forum about how to do that. Otherwise, ask your dealer when they are running a special on oil, and pay them to do it. I have twice paid for those in between oil changes, and it has run about $70 each time. The best thing is that the record of those changes is now on the dealer's record, so I can prove I did it!! :-) If you do it yourself, keep your receipts, buy the correct oil, AND the correct filter. Then, at 10,000 miles, you will have your free oil change at the dealership. At 15,000, pay to do it again or do it at home. In other words, you will pay for every other oil change.

Hope that helps!

drsimmons 05-22-2012 11:55 AM

OK all. I got my Cravenspeed dipstick and changed it out.
Today, after a little drive (90 degrees outside) I got home and let the car set for about 15 min.
Then went back out to check the oil level.
First of all, it fit really tight. Had to grasp with two hands almost.
Didn't need plyers.
Second, that red handle/knob is hotter than hell.
My OEM handle/knob never got that hot.
So, did Craven use metal on these and not bakalite (sp)?????
Not sure if I'm going to keep this thing or not.

Bhavin Userofreality 05-22-2012 12:56 PM

Yeah, the Craven handle is HOTTTT! I have to put my gloves on just to handle it at normal op temp to check the oil. I can live with it tho.

Notawagonwife 05-22-2012 01:18 PM

Thanks Joanie for your message. I was confused by the fact no one had mentioned I needed to constantly check the oil. The salesperson kind of skipped over it-said it was wonderful not to have to change the oil for a year. I did read it in the manual and then the service tech and I had a discussion.I will be using our local mechanic in between the dealer 10,000 miles oil change. The dealer told me it was okay using our normal Mobil 1 and have our local mechanic change it as long as he used the factory oil filter - not one that would fit a Mini. We usually change our oil every 3 to 5,000 miles or seasonally. I will definitely hold on to the receipt.

lisajt 05-22-2012 01:41 PM


Originally Posted by drsimmons (Post 3516386)
OK all. I got my Cravenspeed dipstick and changed it out.
Today, after a little drive (90 degrees outside) I got home and let the car set for about 15 min.
Then went back out to check the oil level.
First of all, it fit really tight. Had to grasp with two hands almost.
Didn't need plyers.
Second, that red handle/knob is hotter than hell.
My OEM handle/knob never got that hot.
So, did Craven use metal on these and not bakalite (sp)?????
Not sure if I'm going to keep this thing or not.

Good to know. Is it much easier to read? I think I have gotten the hang of reading the stock 2007 dipstick.

drsimmons 05-22-2012 02:03 PM


Originally Posted by lisajt (Post 3516446)
Good to know. Is it much easier to read? I think I have gotten the hang of reading the stock 2007 dipstick.

I'm with you on reading the 07 stock one. I put mine back in. Can't deal with the heat on the handle nor the tightness in fit.
I've got a NM turbo heat shield and the round red knob on the Craven is a little bigger than the yellow OEM so it's also harder to grasp.
It's easy to read but my OEM one isn't bad either.
For those with the red tipped OEM sticks, I can see that the Craven would be easier to read.
Guess I'll see if one of my club members with a 2010+ want the Craven.

Michael Hayes 05-22-2012 05:05 PM

I received my replacement Craven dip stick, and it fits in fine. Because the red top is metal it conducts heat and gets hot. But, it's 1/4 inch too long in the long spring. I measured it directly against my original yellow handled one. When the original shows oil at the top of the acceptable range the Craven one shows the oil about a quarter of an inch up the spring. I've gone back to the original hard to read one.

drsimmons 05-22-2012 05:37 PM

^^The one I got did the same thing. Oil up in the spring but on OEM level was at top bulge.
The 07 MCS stick isn't too hard to read IMO but again, the newer ones seem to suck pretty much.
Biggest issue with the Craven is fit and hot top. :confused:

phattyduck 05-25-2012 03:01 PM


Originally Posted by JoanieB (Post 3513801)
phattyduck, may I politely disagree with your post above? From your signature, you have an 08... with the newer MINIs in particular, the problem is that pulling the stick out, wiping it, inserting it again and checking the level, is that when you first pull it out, the bulbous top of the gauge drags oil up the channel.... so if you reinsert it right away, and try to read it, the level is not always clear. SO.. good advice from OceanMINI is to pull the dipstick... wipe it, lay it somewhere safe for twenty minutes to let the oil drain back down the channel, THEN reinsert it and pull out to take your reading. The level is MUCH more accurate and easy to read that way! (and the engine should be warm, it won't cool off that much in 20 minutes) OceanMINI, if I have misinformed please speak up! But this method did work well, based on your advice. :-)

You can disagree, but I don't think you understood my post. Insert the dipstick far enough to clean the tube, but not far enough to get to the oil in the pan - a few times (wiping each time) - until the end of the dipstick comes out clean. I have the 'newer' orange bulbous plastic dipstick. If you do it this way, you don't have to wait the extra time, you just get your paper towel/rag a bit more oily.

I used to hate it, but now that I have figured out the process, it isn't so bad... (just like the oil changes!)

Now to get my wife to start checking her own oil! :o

-Charlie

drsimmons 05-25-2012 03:58 PM

I forgot to mention the stick I received is shy on going all the way into the tube by about a quarter of an inch. I don't want to force it because it was hard enough to get out the way it is. I've shelved mine for now.

Notawagonwife 05-25-2012 04:35 PM


Originally Posted by drsimmons (Post 3518828)
I forgot to mention the stick I received is shy on going all the way into the tube by about a quarter of an inch. I don't want to force it because it was hard enough to get out the way it is. I've shelved mine for now.

Good to know. I was able to check the oil with the factory dipstick okay with the suggestions, so I will just continue instead of ordering the new one.

Thanks for the help

lisajt 05-25-2012 04:47 PM


Originally Posted by drsimmons (Post 3516461)
I'm with you on reading the 07 stock one. I put mine back in. Can't deal with the heat on the handle nor the tightness in fit.
I've got a NM turbo heat shield and the round red knob on the Craven is a little bigger than the yellow OEM so it's also harder to grasp.
It's easy to read but my OEM one isn't bad either.
For those with the red tipped OEM sticks, I can see that the Craven would be easier to read.
Guess I'll see if one of my club members with a 2010+ want the Craven.

Thanks for this. It saved me from spending money unnecessarily.:thumbsup:

JoanieB 05-25-2012 05:53 PM


Originally Posted by phattyduck (Post 3518798)
You can disagree, but I don't think you understood my post. Insert the dipstick far enough to clean the tube, but not far enough to get to the oil in the pan - a few times (wiping each time) - until the end of the dipstick comes out clean. I have the 'newer' orange bulbous plastic dipstick. If you do it this way, you don't have to wait the extra time, you just get your paper towel/rag a bit more oily.

I used to hate it, but now that I have figured out the process, it isn't so bad... (just like the oil changes!)

Now to get my wife to start checking her own oil! :o

-Charlie

Indeed, I did misunderstand, and reading it again, it makes perfect sense. Which is why I do try to be polite, because reading the form in between long work sessions can cause the brain to stall and the mouth to engage instead. :lol:
Thank you!

byron h 05-31-2012 10:15 AM

Seeing the oil on the new dipstick is not the real problem. I have tried the following method and it works well for me.

Originally Posted by AAONMS https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...s/viewpost.gif
I posted this in another thread, but here goes too...

Sorry that this is long, but...
I have a slightly anal-retentive method for checking the oil level.
I remove the dipstick, wipe down, re-insert it most, but not all of the way, remove, wipe, re-insert, and do this a few times.
In effect, what is being done is getting out the oil that was deposited in the tube when you first removed the dipstick.
After this process results in a clean/dry dipstick, only then do I fully insert the dipstick and remove it to check the oil level.
I understand that this seems excessive, but it does work.
First time I tried this, I checked the oil level in my usual manner of removing the dipstick, wiping, reinserting, pulling out and checking the level.
Oil level was all of the way to the top of the measurement area on the dipstick.
Next, went through the process I described above and found the level to be in the middle of the measurement area.


This method appears to work if you do it long enough. If you want to check a second time you have to start over and repeat the process.

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...08080561_n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...65631416_n.jpg
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...98789521_n.jpg
http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...01514188_n.jpg

2011 MC PW/B

ASC 05-31-2012 12:04 PM

Possibly a ridiculous question, but if it's the little top "nub" that's causing the oil to be dragged up the tube, would there be a problem carefully grinding it down the same diameter as the rest of the orange plastic? I don't think it's sealing anything (maybe it is?) since the rubber o-ring is on the handle.

byron h 05-31-2012 02:52 PM

Modifying Dipstick
 
The round bulges on the plastic part of the dipstick are problably to help guide the dipstick through the tube. The plastic part is attached to the metal rod with a pin through the lower bulge. I wouldn't recommend removing any plastic since it might weaken it enough to break off or make it even harder to push the dipstick into the tube.

2011 MC PW/B

OceanMini2 05-31-2012 11:01 PM


Originally Posted by byron h (Post 3521991)
the round bulges on the plastic part of the dipstick are problably to help guide the dipstick through the tube. The plastic part is attached to the metal rod with a pin through the lower bulge. I wouldn't recommend removing any plastic since it might weaken it enough to break off or make it even harder to push the dipstick into the tube.

2011 mc pw/b

+1

OceanMini2 05-31-2012 11:06 PM


Originally Posted by JoanieB (Post 3513801)
......with the newer MINIs in particular, the problem is that pulling the stick out, wiping it, inserting it again and checking the level, is that when you first pull it out, the bulbous top of the gauge drags oil up the channel.... so if you reinsert it right away, and try to read it, the level is not always clear. SO.. good advice from OceanMINI is to pull the dipstick... wipe it, lay it somewhere safe for twenty minutes to let the oil drain back down the channel, THEN reinsert it and pull out to take your reading. The level is MUCH more accurate and easy to read that way! (and the engine should be warm, it won't cool off that much in 20 minutes) OceanMINI, if I have misinformed please speak up! But this method did work well, based on your advice. :-)

JoanieB,
That is one of the best ways to check your oil if you have the time. I have tested many ways and I like that way the best. It works very well if you are adding oil and you want to know when to stop adding. The worst part about the Mini dipstick is you can't tell if you have overfilled your oil unless the tube is clean. Always make sure the car is level.

1) Remove the dipstick and clean it. Do not put the dipstick back in the tube.
2) Let the car sit so the oil can drain out of the tube. ( 20 min)
3) Insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
4) Inspect the oil on the stick.

This is why you have to clean the tube (I know you all know this but for the few that do not).
http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...92793474_n.jpg
http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...75281033_n.jpg

Notawagonwife 06-01-2012 04:02 AM

Thanks for the illustrations. I was able to read the factory dip stick using the written instructions from a previous post, but this sure clarifies it for everyone. Can you make the post a sticky? I think it would be helpful for new members.

muzak 06-01-2012 06:49 AM

I, too, sadly report that I went back to the stock dip stick. It was getting more and more difficult to pull out the aftermarket dipstick, not to mention, scalding hot. I'll use it in my driveway on the most uncertain times of reading the stocker, so it may still come in handy.

OceanMini2 06-01-2012 08:28 AM


Originally Posted by Notawagonwife (Post 3522281)
Thanks for the illustrations. I was able to read the factory dip stick using the written instructions from a previous post, but this sure clarifies it for everyone. Can you make the post a sticky? I think it would be helpful for new members.

I don't know how to make a sticky. This topic comes up all the time.

One other problem with checking your R56's oil is, when the motor runs oil gets pushed up the tube and oil gets into the dipstick tube through a hole in the chain guide so you have to clean the tube out to get a good reading. In my illustration it looks like you could get a good read on the first pull but you can't. The illustration above just illustrates the transfer processes and how the reading is compromised.

The other illustration that shows the stick partway out (in and out cleaning) works in a filling station. That method works well if your oil level is good and you just want to make sure you are not using up your oil. When topping off you should take your time and be very careful.

The most difficult readings are when your oil is 1 quart low or 1/2 quart too high. In both cases you can be tricked into thinking your oil level is fine. In the case of a quart low the oil transfer to the tube covers the upper part of the dipstick making it look like you have more oil. In the case of 1/2 over filled the stick reading looks the same as if the level was just full (if you don't clear the tube) because the thin rod above the upper ball has oil on it all the time (due to transfer) and an extra 1/2 does not look different.

I believe most Mini drivers don't take the proper time to check the oil level and as a result they have problems later down the road. Mini does not do a good job of teaching customers how to clearly use the dipstick and it is far more difficult to use than any other car that I have ever owned other than a van. If you look at the online video that Mini puts out on checking your oil they make it look like it is no big deal and you can just put a quart in the motor if you want more confidence. In the video the oil looks like it is overfilled. Most likely it is just oil transfer but Mini is setting you to fail if you check your oil as shown in the video. You can see oil on the upper rod part of the dipstick as they tell you where the oil should be on the stick (between the ball and the cone). Dealers tend to over fill and Mini does not tell you how much oil to put in the motor. If you call Mini USA (I called Mini USA 3 times) they most likely will not tell you anything and refer you to a dealer or a tow service. My dealer could not tell me more about the topic and when I asked how much oil the motor takes they provided an incorrect answer. I have to say that the dealer and Mini USA were both friendly and appeared to take interest in my questions but could not provide any facts.

Take a look-->
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CFswP-bWFH8

You should check your oil every time you fill up with fuel or every other time you fill up with fuel. Some Mini's use 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles. Some use 1 quart every 3,000 miles. If you wait for your 15,000 mile oil change to check your oil you could have as few as 1-2 quarts of oil in the motor.

davidtobin 06-27-2012 09:26 AM

What is "full" with Craven Speed dipstick?
 
Just got the Craven Speed dipstick for my 2009 Clubman S. Basic question: How does it show "full"? All divets with oil in them? Mine reads all but top two divets with oil. Thanks.


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