2nd Gear
The first car I've ever done an oil change myself on was the MCS. Granted I had to watch someone do it the first time around but it's not hard/scary. I think that as long as you are calm and do not rush putting the oil filter housing top on, you will be alright. I always worry about cross threading but I just take it nice and slow with consistant pressure on the top angle of the cap. The only real problem I have with oil changes is after the dealership does it and they have a beastly person screw the top back on, as I can't ever seem to find the muscle or leverage to unscrew it by myself.
Quote:
hot pipe nest.
On a related note, one technique I've discovered from working on my cars and bikes is to always break the filter/housing loose while the engine's still cold. That way, if you find out that the filter is stuck on tight for any reason, you can put your hands and arms anywhere you need to get the required leverage without burning yourself on anything.Originally Posted by kenchan
but that takes out all the fun trying to unscrew the filter out of thehot pipe nest.
Once the filter's unstuck, hand-tighten it gently back into place, warm up the engine and drain the oil as normal.
2nd Gear
Ok i am about to do my first oil change on my MINI (first for me not the MINI).
So :
1. Filter + O Ring - Checked.
2. 5 liters of Castrol 5W30 - checked (will use 4.8Liters).
3. Tools - checked.
4. One MINI owner who wants to work on his mini - checked.
Any tips ? Like i saw its better to put some oil in the canister where the filter is so no dry stars ? I will first put the filter and screw by hand and then with the tools. Also will check the level with the dip stick.
Anything secret i should know ?
Thanks, Daniel.
So :
1. Filter + O Ring - Checked.
2. 5 liters of Castrol 5W30 - checked (will use 4.8Liters).
3. Tools - checked.
4. One MINI owner who wants to work on his mini - checked.
Any tips ? Like i saw its better to put some oil in the canister where the filter is so no dry stars ? I will first put the filter and screw by hand and then with the tools. Also will check the level with the dip stick.
Anything secret i should know ?
Thanks, Daniel.
6th Gear
I've changed oil 5 times on my MCS and each time screwing the cap back on the cannister is one big PITA. The last time my wife was watching and listening to my snarling and said let me try. First time and it zipped right on.
When I gather up the tools for the next one, she will be there.
When I gather up the tools for the next one, she will be there.
6th Gear
Hmmm, I must have a different MCS than youse guys. My '06 is possibly the easiest and cleanest oil change I've ever done, and I love the canister filter. I've never had any difficulty reinstalling the canister, and my hands are not petite. The earlier models had a spring in the housing, while the later ('04 and beyond? Late '03 and beyond?) don't, so maybe I'm biased?
Tricks? Canister removal: AFTER draining the oil, untwist the canister until it "breaks free" but isn't completely unthreaded (you'll feel the twisting get very easy). At that point, DO SOMETHING ELSE for 5 minutes. Write the oil change in your logbook, grab a Pepsi, hug your SO, whatever. If you're hugging your SO, though, make sure your hands are clean. Oh - it's a Craftsman low profile 36mm socket for removal -I use my torque wrench to remove, it's a one-click affair but works fine. That's for the canister, what you use on your SO is your business.
OBEY THE TORQUE SPECS ON THE CANISTER AND OIL PLUG WHEN INSTALLING. (caps lock intentional, do not overtighten). You can hand-tight the canister back on, then set torque wrench (26 ft/lb I believe) and snug it right up. That's "not too tight", in layman's terms. Same for pan plug - not too tight. I've actually replaced my plug with a VW plug - same threads, I machined mine to length, and it has a 19MM head (vs Mini 13mm) for easier removal next time. A Futaba drain valve is in my future.
I change the oil when the car is cool. Yeah, it doesn't flow quite as fast, but it certainly flows enough, especially if you let it drain - then remove the filter housing and give it 5 more for that canister oil to "rinse" the pan. At a 5000-8000 mile interval it's far better than the Service Indicator 15k so I firmly believe I'm fine.
I did have a "Son of Kong" moment when the dealer left the oil plug a mite too tight once, but the dealer was kind enough to rectify it for me no charge (love those guys, even their version of Son of Kong). Another reason to do the oil change when the car is cool.
Dispose of the oil properly, PepBoys takes it, as do most WalMarts with auto centers. Used oil is an environmental nasty.
That's about it. I like the Mini oil change - and I'm an otherwise normal person, I think... maybe...
Tricks? Canister removal: AFTER draining the oil, untwist the canister until it "breaks free" but isn't completely unthreaded (you'll feel the twisting get very easy). At that point, DO SOMETHING ELSE for 5 minutes. Write the oil change in your logbook, grab a Pepsi, hug your SO, whatever. If you're hugging your SO, though, make sure your hands are clean. Oh - it's a Craftsman low profile 36mm socket for removal -I use my torque wrench to remove, it's a one-click affair but works fine. That's for the canister, what you use on your SO is your business.
OBEY THE TORQUE SPECS ON THE CANISTER AND OIL PLUG WHEN INSTALLING. (caps lock intentional, do not overtighten). You can hand-tight the canister back on, then set torque wrench (26 ft/lb I believe) and snug it right up. That's "not too tight", in layman's terms. Same for pan plug - not too tight. I've actually replaced my plug with a VW plug - same threads, I machined mine to length, and it has a 19MM head (vs Mini 13mm) for easier removal next time. A Futaba drain valve is in my future.
I change the oil when the car is cool. Yeah, it doesn't flow quite as fast, but it certainly flows enough, especially if you let it drain - then remove the filter housing and give it 5 more for that canister oil to "rinse" the pan. At a 5000-8000 mile interval it's far better than the Service Indicator 15k so I firmly believe I'm fine.
I did have a "Son of Kong" moment when the dealer left the oil plug a mite too tight once, but the dealer was kind enough to rectify it for me no charge (love those guys, even their version of Son of Kong). Another reason to do the oil change when the car is cool.
Dispose of the oil properly, PepBoys takes it, as do most WalMarts with auto centers. Used oil is an environmental nasty.
That's about it. I like the Mini oil change - and I'm an otherwise normal person, I think... maybe...
6th Gear
Daniel, on our MINI's there is no way to prefill the filter. I do it on my Subaru, but not the MINI.
2nd Gear
Quote:
Thanks for the info.Originally Posted by Crashton
Daniel, on our MINI's there is no way to prefill the filter. I do it on my Subaru, but not the MINI.
I don't have a torque wrench...what to do ?


Whats not too tight ?

6th Gear
I have a torque wrench, but don't use it for oil changes. 36 years of twisting wrenches & breaking bolts has given me a feel for what is tight enough. It might be a good idea for you to pick up a torque wrench to be on the safe side.
1st Gear
Quote:


Whats not too tight ?
If I recall correctly the oil filter housing torque spec is 25+5nm. This is basically snug with a quick extra "check" tightening. In this case tight is tight. Tightening it extra will only make it a big pain the next time you take it off. As long as the o-ring is seated properly you won't have any trouble with leaks.Originally Posted by darksun
I don't have a torque wrench...what to do ? 

Whats not too tight ?
6th Gear
"not too tight" on the canister is hand tight with a little snugging - or if you're pretty strong, hand super tight but not wrench tight.
For the oil plug, the torque spec is quite low, AND that rubber gasket swells when warm and oily (making it tightER), so tighten "snug" with a SHORT wrench, or choke up on your 6" wrench so it's working like a shorty.
It's very difficult to put into words what only muscles (or a calibrated wrench) can tell you, unfortunately. Thankfully, a small torque wrench isn't too expensive - especially compared to a dealer visit or a stripped/cracked oil pan. Please get one!
For the oil plug, the torque spec is quite low, AND that rubber gasket swells when warm and oily (making it tightER), so tighten "snug" with a SHORT wrench, or choke up on your 6" wrench so it's working like a shorty.
It's very difficult to put into words what only muscles (or a calibrated wrench) can tell you, unfortunately. Thankfully, a small torque wrench isn't too expensive - especially compared to a dealer visit or a stripped/cracked oil pan. Please get one!


