Cooper (non S) Modifications specific to the MINI Cooper (R50).

Anyone changed the drive belt???

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Old Dec 10, 2006 | 07:45 PM
  #1  
R50 Paul's Avatar
R50 Paul
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From: Covina,CA
Anyone changed the drive belt???

.....like the title says.....has anybody changed the belt on a Cooper themselves before??? I read the how too and what not, but wanted to know of any first hand experiance out there. Thanks!!!
 
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Old Dec 11, 2006 | 07:32 AM
  #2  
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ProfessorDave
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From: Clarks Summit, PA
I'm interested in this issue, too Bruiser, and hope you get some traffic on this thread!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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Grassroots Garage's Avatar
Grassroots Garage
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From: Piedmont Triad, NC
MINI has "special tool" to work the tensioner, but they also conveniently put a 3/8 square hole, perfect for a low profile ratchet or breaker bar. I like to jack the pass. side (always use a jack stand), turn the wheels to the right, full lock and take the key out to hold them there. Then remove the screws holding just the front of the wheel arch (including 1 at the top) and peel it out of the way, you can catch it on the bumper so it stays. This gives you access to the crank pulley. You can also remove the front lower splash shield (3 bolts on the lower edge of the bumper and two 1/4 turn fasteners) to gain additional room for your hands. When you take the tension off the belt, there is a spot on the tensioner to put a pin (to hold tension against the spring) a 1/8" drill bit or put a 90* bend in a pocket screwdriver with the tip cut off. Then you can remove the belt without fighting the tensioner.
Cheers,
--Dan
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 08:11 AM
  #4  
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R50 Paul
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Wow.........doesn't seem too bad..........thanks Dan!!!!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 10:46 AM
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ProfessorDave
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Yeah, great tips Dan!
 
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Old Apr 11, 2009 | 09:21 AM
  #6  
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Fastlane
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From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Originally Posted by Grassroots Garage
MINI has "special tool" to work the tensioner, but they also conveniently put a 3/8 square hole, perfect for a low profile ratchet or breaker bar. I like to jack the pass. side (always use a jack stand), turn the wheels to the right, full lock and take the key out to hold them there. Then remove the screws holding just the front of the wheel arch (including 1 at the top) and peel it out of the way, you can catch it on the bumper so it stays. This gives you access to the crank pulley. You can also remove the front lower splash shield (3 bolts on the lower edge of the bumper and two 1/4 turn fasteners) to gain additional room for your hands. When you take the tension off the belt, there is a spot on the tensioner to put a pin (to hold tension against the spring) a 1/8" drill bit or put a 90* bend in a pocket screwdriver with the tip cut off. Then you can remove the belt without fighting the tensioner.
Cheers,
--Dan
I know that this is a REALLY old thread....but I used these tips to do my own belt change today and it was super easy! If NAPA hadn't given me the totally wrong belt, I would have been done it 15 minutes. I had to drive up to the BMW dealer to get the right one since they are special order at NAPA. The dealer price is rediculous....$45...for a belt! But, I had to have it, so I bought it. Oh well.

Thanks for the great tips Grassroots Garage!
 
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