Tires, Wheels, & Brakes Discussion about wheels, tires, and brakes for the new MINI.
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 11:18 AM
  #1  
biggripper's Avatar
biggripper
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Help Me Choose Pads

My searching has led me only to old threads and a lack of concensus as to which aftermarket brake pads are the best for low dust.

I want pads that perform as well as stock (or better) but cut brake dust dramatically. I just ordered some white Team dynamics wheels so I need better pads. With my stock pads I can never keep my white S-Lites clean.

It sounds like the best options are EBC Green Stuff's or Hawk HPS pads

Anyone have experience with one or both of these products? Please help me decide.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 11:30 AM
  #2  
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I use Green Stuff pads on my Cooper S. Brake dust hasn't been completely eliminated, but it's definitely a huge improvement over stock.

More importantly, I can stop on a dime!

I'm thinking about trying out the Hawks just to compare, but after 13k miles (including 2 auto-x events and 1 auto-x school) I'd definitely recommend the Green Stuffs.

- c
 
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 11:32 AM
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My first choice is the FERODO DS2500.
Same compound as the Ferrari F40/F50 brake pads,


Victor
 
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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Well I've had experiance with a completely different pad, I went to my local Advance auto and picked up a set of cermaics two weeks berofe going to Sebring, far more bite than stock, extremely little dust (I haven't needed to wash the wheels with anything o more than a gentle spray of the hose since the track day. And at a course that I was told not to show up with anything close to half pad life and expect them to be gone by the end of the day I had less than 10% wear. I have heard the EBC green stuff is the fastest wearing pad out there if you do an autocross or DE, but I cannot speak from experiance on this but may be worth doing more reasearch on. The pads needed no anti squeal, the break-in is such that you have an almost immediate set-in. Advance overnighted the pads to me, I placed the order at 2030 and had my pads at 1100 the next morning. the feel is different, you have to press harder to feel the car brake, but by the time you feel the braking you have the ABS kicking in (on hot dry roads) there is so much stopping power, but that only took about a week to get used to (Please note this may also be due to I need to upgrade from an exceeds DOT4 fluid to a DOT 5.1 fluid because of my track time). I'll check the manufacturer info for you when I get home if you'd like. $50 for the set for the fronts two year warranty, but these are claimed to be vehicle lifetime pads, I'd expect a heavy braker without trackdays or autox to see these last well over 100k miles.
 
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Old Apr 24, 2006 | 12:14 PM
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Brake Pads

Brakes are always a compromise. If you want to have a high performance pad, you have to live with some dust and noise. If you want minimal dust you have to give up some performance.

DS2500, I have used them, pretty good track pad. Not the best street pad, goes through rotors and has a crummy cold stop.

For more info on pads, find it here:
http://www.stoptech.com/products/hig...nce_pads.shtml

No mind you, not all these pads are available in the MINI caliper shape, in fact very few are in that shape The Axxis pads and the DS2500, Hawk Ceramic and Hawk HT-10 all come in the stock front caliper.

And I would NEVER recommend using a street pad on the track. Yes for Auto-X, but NEVER on track days.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 09:25 AM
  #6  
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Thanks for the responses, guys.

Anyone else care to add their $.02

EBC or Hawk HPS or Others...see first post for my criteria.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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I think hawk ceramics are lower dusting than hawk hps. I've been using Hawk HPS and they still produce enough dust that I need to clean my white wheels weekly. But I chose them for a combo street / autocross / HPDE pad, not a low dust pad, so I'm happy.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:01 PM
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In trying to decide on pads I went back and forth between EBC, Hawk Ceramic, and Hawk HPS before finally choosing HPS. I've only put about 1000 mi. on them so far, but I think I made the right choice. They stop great, I've had no squealing, and there is very little dust noticeable on my new silver Minilites. As I recall from other research, the ceramics are better suited as a street only pad. I must also confess that I like the black backing plate on the HPS better than the bright green of the EBC. Good luck in the decision making.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:04 PM
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remember anything is less dust than stock calk
 
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Old Apr 26, 2006 | 12:05 PM
  #10  
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One other thing- check out Raceshopper.com for pads; I found their prices to better than most of the places I've searched on the Web.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 03:44 PM
  #11  
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Thanks all for the feedback. I settled on the Hawk ceramics as they sounded like a good fit for my needs.

A quick question. Aside from the pads and necessary tools, are there any other supplies that I need. I saw in Octane Guy's How-to that he recommends the anti-squeel lube but his write up is the only write up that recommends it. I won't need to mess with sensors as my car is an 02...so that is covered.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 03:59 PM
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good choice. I have always been a fan of cermic. I had PBR ceramics on my allroad, they really did an amazing job, and dust was minimal...even with tracking that 4400lb beast.

Currently I have Ferodo 2500s on my mini. Had EBC Greens, I like the Ferodo much better. I will try the Hawk Ceramics for my next round...

As far as tools, I have not read Octane's write up, but the rear caliper tool, or a home made version of one, the anti-squeal adhesive, and you should be set. You may also want to consider a brake bleed as well, make the system all new and happy.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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what exactly is anti squeal adhesive...the name makes it sound obvious, but assumptions aside, what is it.

Where do I get it???
 
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #14  
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this is the stuff I use, have used it on all my cars, and my friends cars. Love the stuff, and it helps out considerable. Although, with higher temperature pads like the DS2500, you can still expect a bit of squeal at low speed, that is the nature of higher performance pads. I got my stuff at the local AutoZone, but I am sure Napa or Pep Boys has it as well. I use the bottle on the right, not the spray. it comes out like a thick paste through the tip, don't touch it, it sticks to everything, and does not come off clothing.

 
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 09:28 PM
  #15  
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Here is a how to for an 05 with what we found as the project went on.
Anti-squeal shouldn't be needed with ceramics just dooa few hard braking runs (you'll smell em) then they're set in and no noises. Be sure to rub off all the old dust while the caliper is off.

Originally Posted by minvader
Roldero wrote:Can someone give some advice as to what is involved in doing this ourselves? I understand two people will be needed, but what tools are required and how long should it take to do? I am more than willing to volunteer helping others, even if it just pumping the pedal.


Mike
I tried to rally everyone a couple weeks ago so we could get together and learn to and/or teach each other how to do this, but it seemed like I was the only one here who cared to do so. Last weekend Drew ('Motor On') and I did our own brakes at my house, neither of us had ever done this on a Mini before, and it was really easy. If you can turn a wrench, you can do this, and you don't need to pay any more than the cost of fluid and pads ever again.

We did my car first, so it was a bit more time-consuming while we figured it all out (and we did some other work as well.) Drew's Mini went up on jackstands, fluid changed, pads swapped, and back on the ground in one hour... not too bad for a couple hacks like us.

Tools:
* floor jack
* 4 jackstands
* lug wrench
* oil drain pan
* typical metric socket set (sorry, can't recall which sockets you need)
* typical metric open-end wrench (again, forgot the size, maybe 10mm)
* flat tip screwdriver
* something resembling a large C-clamp, I used my vice that isn't bolted to a table
* short length of clear aquarium airline tubing ~12"
* rags & gloves (it's very dirty work!)
* Gatorade or beer

Basically all you need to do is lift the car up, remove all the wheels, take off one caliper assembly by removing 2 bolts, pop off a retaining clip, pull it apart (only a couple parts & 2 pads,) compress the piston with a clamp/vice, stick 2 new pads on, re-assemble the parts, bolt it back on, replace the retaining clip. There's a sensor wire on the left front, be careful with removing that from the old pad, you will put it back on the new pad.

Next you will sit one person in the car while the other fits the clear tube onto the bleeder valve on the right-rear caliper (tip - use the clear tubing for aquarium air pumps, heat the end with a lighter and stick a phillips screwdriver into it to make the opening large enough to fit the bleeder valve.) Loosen the valve about a quarter turn and tell the other person to start pumping the brake pedal. You will see the old fluid flowing through the tube into the drain pan (don't forget the drain pan!) Go up front and pour some new fluid into the reservior. Go back and check the color of the fluid coming out, go back and pour some more fluid in... keep doing this until the new clean fluid comes out, and be sure the reservior never empties - it must have new fluid in it at all times or else you will get air into the system. Once you are happy with the state of the fluid, stop pumping the brakes and tighten the bleeder valve. Move to the left-rear and repeat, then the right-front, and finally the left-front. Each of the following 3 brakes will take progressively less fluid to flush out the old stuff, so you will have to be quick to check the reservoir and keep it topped off while watching the stuff flowing out.

Those are my "in a nutshell" directions, based solely on a couple inexperienced guys figuring it out on our own. We read a few DIY's posted online, and they were somewhat helpful, but just getting in there and doing it was a great learning experience. I wouldn't say that my instructions here are anywhere near complete, I didn't intend to write a DIY in this response... I just wanted to let you know basically what you are in for if you decide to try this on your own. I encourage everyone that thinks they might want to learn more about their car to do this, it's very easy and you'll save a few bucks too.

Please be careful, your brakes will kill you (and/or maybe others) if you don't do it right (so will the car if you aren't careful while it's on jackstands)... so work smart and take your time. Read up on it if you don't feel 100% confident.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2006 | 09:37 PM
  #16  
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I used the anti-spueal for my ceramics...can't hurt. I have heard others that used ceramics squeal, so I just took the preventive approach....did not want to have to do them twice.

There are many different ways to do the process, each person needs to make their own decision, and go with what their own experience shows them.

decent write up though, thanks for sharing. Stuff like that can be generalized to just about any brake job.
 
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