Best brakes for 16"
Best brakes for 16"
After some engine modes, my brakes are getting really hot.
I think it is time to invest in brakes.
I would like a kit that allows OEM 16" wheels, although I'll be moving to 17's someday. Just want to keeps changing between wheels.
I like Wilwood. (They say: 15" wheel will fit without spacers)
Please, help!! What you have used before with good results?
What are your recommendations?
I think it is time to invest in brakes.
I would like a kit that allows OEM 16" wheels, although I'll be moving to 17's someday. Just want to keeps changing between wheels.
I like Wilwood. (They say: 15" wheel will fit without spacers)
Please, help!! What you have used before with good results?
What are your recommendations?
I like my Wilwoods, too, but that 15" claim probably doesn't pertain to any stock wheels. I know they won't fit under the 16" R83's without spacers, but they fit under my 16" SSR Comp's just fine.
The spokes aren't so much "fatter" as "flatter" on the back-side.
Take your wheel, lay it on the ground (face-down - and protected, so as not to scratch it), and lay a 12" ruler inside across the hub, so that 6" lies in the center of the hub. You'll want a metal ruler for this one, and one that's true.
Then, take another ruler and measure how much space is between the bottom of the ruler and the back-side of the spoke. The more space, the better for brake clearance.
This is not the whole story, either. Some of the spokes have plenty of clearance at 6", but dive sharply at 7" or 8". This becomes more important for different brake kits, but the brake kit's fitment chart should be your starting point.
Another way to measure is to take the fitment chart, print it, paste it onto a cardboard backing, and then cut it out. If it will fit inside your wheel, the brake will most likely fit.
Remember, though, that printers in the USA do not print 100% x 100%. There is always a minor deviation (to prevent exact duplication of money), so if you wind up with less than 2mm, don't trust the fitment from the cut-out. If you have a plotter or a duplicator available, use it for an exact-dimension print.
Take your wheel, lay it on the ground (face-down - and protected, so as not to scratch it), and lay a 12" ruler inside across the hub, so that 6" lies in the center of the hub. You'll want a metal ruler for this one, and one that's true.
Then, take another ruler and measure how much space is between the bottom of the ruler and the back-side of the spoke. The more space, the better for brake clearance.
This is not the whole story, either. Some of the spokes have plenty of clearance at 6", but dive sharply at 7" or 8". This becomes more important for different brake kits, but the brake kit's fitment chart should be your starting point.
Another way to measure is to take the fitment chart, print it, paste it onto a cardboard backing, and then cut it out. If it will fit inside your wheel, the brake will most likely fit.
Remember, though, that printers in the USA do not print 100% x 100%. There is always a minor deviation (to prevent exact duplication of money), so if you wind up with less than 2mm, don't trust the fitment from the cut-out. If you have a plotter or a duplicator available, use it for an exact-dimension print.
visual aide:
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/wheel_fit.html
Yes the 11.75 will clear the DIA of the 15" wheel but spoke issues may still be there regardless.
I was actually surprised that the stock WW kits are not inset a bit more. Had I followed through with my 12.2 kit from long ago I'd have put a deeper hat on the kit for this very reason. The DP is a much smaller bodied caliper yet the clearance is nearly the same as the Street Sport 13 with the FSL caliper! Meaning they use a shallow hat. Don't know of any alternatives to this however unless I were to make my own DP caliper kit. Way more cost than what you have now...
http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/wheel_fit.html
Yes the 11.75 will clear the DIA of the 15" wheel but spoke issues may still be there regardless.
I was actually surprised that the stock WW kits are not inset a bit more. Had I followed through with my 12.2 kit from long ago I'd have put a deeper hat on the kit for this very reason. The DP is a much smaller bodied caliper yet the clearance is nearly the same as the Street Sport 13 with the FSL caliper! Meaning they use a shallow hat. Don't know of any alternatives to this however unless I were to make my own DP caliper kit. Way more cost than what you have now...
Last edited by toddtce; May 23, 2005 at 02:11 PM.
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