Torch/Cut out Method on Control Arm Bushings
Torch/Cut out Method on Control Arm Bushings
Is it possible to cutout the front lower control arm bushings on an R56 and perform the replacement that way? Rather than dropping subframe.
https://youtu.be/-yEfrPpQBdk?si=YOHcPncHwMGDSM2E
https://youtu.be/B7kQn82QB7U?si=WVIr8_ZBUK8Ybm_I
The only videos on YouTube are of R53’s
Thanks!
https://youtu.be/-yEfrPpQBdk?si=YOHcPncHwMGDSM2E
https://youtu.be/B7kQn82QB7U?si=WVIr8_ZBUK8Ybm_I
The only videos on YouTube are of R53’s
Thanks!
Why go through all the hassle. It will take less time and risk by dropping the sub-frame and remove the bushing with this tool. Bushing Tool
Or you can just buy the assembly and swap them. Here
Or you can just buy the assembly and swap them. Here
Update:
I ended up dropping the subframe as much as possible without removing the front end and I left the steering rack bolt inside the car in place. Wasn’t too bad with access to a lift. Did not need to drop exhaust. A ratcheting wrench is absolutely necessary for the sway bar bolts that are on extremely tight.
I used a big ball joint press tool to remove and replace the control arm bushings and their metal sleeve. Used the same tool to remove and replace the inner ball joint. Used a jaw puller to remove the control arm bracket from the control arm. No need to use a hydraulic press, the handheld ball joint press did it all for me with the right combination of press tools.
It would have saved me a lot of time if I had a core control arm set and could press everything on before I started on the lift. That took up half of the actual time to complete the job for me.
Gone on a couple drives now and could feel the difference immediately. Steering is stiffer and more direct. It felt like it amplified the sport mode button tightening up the steering x2 and is so nice to drive. No compromise at all when out of sport mode or any noise at idle etc. Got rid of my clunking control arm bushings and overall car is much better.
I used a big ball joint press tool to remove and replace the control arm bushings and their metal sleeve. Used the same tool to remove and replace the inner ball joint. Used a jaw puller to remove the control arm bracket from the control arm. No need to use a hydraulic press, the handheld ball joint press did it all for me with the right combination of press tools.
It would have saved me a lot of time if I had a core control arm set and could press everything on before I started on the lift. That took up half of the actual time to complete the job for me.
Gone on a couple drives now and could feel the difference immediately. Steering is stiffer and more direct. It felt like it amplified the sport mode button tightening up the steering x2 and is so nice to drive. No compromise at all when out of sport mode or any noise at idle etc. Got rid of my clunking control arm bushings and overall car is much better.
I am making an adapter for my C-clamp similar to this tool. Fortunately, where I work, I have access to different sizes of DOM pipe (thick wall), and a lathe to turn it to the proper diameter.
Does anyone know if the front control arm bushing and the rear trailing arm bushing are the same diameter? If not, I will be making an adapter for it as well.
Does anyone know if the front control arm bushing and the rear trailing arm bushing are the same diameter? If not, I will be making an adapter for it as well.
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