Radiator Fan Won't Turn On
Radiator Fan Won't Turn On
I have a 2009 MINI Cooper Base (R56) manual transmission. For a while now, the radiator fan will not turn on while the car is parked/idling, even with the AC on or the engine gets hot. I understand that the MINI has a single fan with two speeds, but it seems that neither one will turn on.
Symptoms:
Troubleshooting:
What could be causing this to happen? What should I do? The nearest authorized MINI dealer/mechanic is over 300 miles away, so it's not practical for me to take it to a professional. Local shops don't seem confident they can work on it.
Thank you. Let me know if you need more information!
Symptoms:
- Engine overheats when idling with AC
- Engine gets very hot (215+F) when AC is on while driving highway speed
- AC does not blow cold air when idle. Blows very cold air when moving
Troubleshooting:
- I have tested the relays to make sure they work. They do, but I replaced them anyway. This does not solve the issue.
- The radiator fan DOES spin when plugged into power. I disconnected the fan and, using some rigged wiring, wired it directly into a spare car battery. It powered on and worked.
What could be causing this to happen? What should I do? The nearest authorized MINI dealer/mechanic is over 300 miles away, so it's not practical for me to take it to a professional. Local shops don't seem confident they can work on it.
Thank you. Let me know if you need more information!
Only the S-model cars have a two stage fan. The justa (like mine and yours) only has a two wire connector to the fan. The two-stage fan has a four wire connector.
Normal engine operating temperature is 105C or 221F. During hard acceleration, the map controlled thermostat will open and drop engine the engine temp to 85C or 185F.
This is easy! Using a multi-meter, disconnect the electrical connector at the fan motor; start the car and turn on the AC. If you have 12-14 VDC, change your fan motor. The fan motor is a DC motor with brushes. As the motor ages, intermittent electrical connection can occur between the brushes and the commutator.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commutator_(electric).
When you connected the fan motor to a different power source (that may have more electrical power), that increase in power may have given the motor the extra kick it needed to get it going.
Do you see a lot of black dust coming out of the fan motor? The dust is coming from the brushes or the bearings have started to disintegrate. Sure signs it's time to replace the motor.
Normal engine operating temperature is 105C or 221F. During hard acceleration, the map controlled thermostat will open and drop engine the engine temp to 85C or 185F.
This is easy! Using a multi-meter, disconnect the electrical connector at the fan motor; start the car and turn on the AC. If you have 12-14 VDC, change your fan motor. The fan motor is a DC motor with brushes. As the motor ages, intermittent electrical connection can occur between the brushes and the commutator.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commutator_(electric).
When you connected the fan motor to a different power source (that may have more electrical power), that increase in power may have given the motor the extra kick it needed to get it going.
Do you see a lot of black dust coming out of the fan motor? The dust is coming from the brushes or the bearings have started to disintegrate. Sure signs it's time to replace the motor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post







