Hey all! With finals season wrapping up on Thursday morning of this week, it looks like I'll finally have the time to swap the motor in my poor R53 that has been sitting since October. That being said, I should have a spare, blown WE11 sitting in my living room in two weeks or so.

I refuse to simply scrap it, and I know that these motors often get some good internals thrown at 'em (especially for turbo builds). I'd like to turn my trash into treasure. Do you guys have any resources, or advice, or tips for building these motors for boost resiliency?

Without having it apart, I know that at a minimum, I'll need to pick up a set of new conrods and rocker tappets to make the motor run again. However, if I want a robust, boost-friendly motor, I should probably get better valves, valve springs, and port/polish the intake manifold.

I'm starting a YouTube channel about my automotive misadventures this winter, and I want to make sure that the parts I get and the work I do is generally "car-guy" approved. Any and all tips are welcome!

Especially resources on where to get good parts, what areas of the motor fail under high boost, and what not to do. Expect to see delicious blown motor pics in the coming weeks!!

 

Sneed 4 Speed does a bunch of engine builds, he has a lot of high horsepower knowledge. Might want to give him a call. And supertech/shrick cams/Carrillo are good options for the Gen 1 MINIs.

 

Okay, I'll do so, but I definitely can't afford for someone else to build my motor. Meanwhile, I thought this could more of a space for the discussion of methodology—specifically, what internal parts of the motor should be improved when going turbo?

 

I don't understand why you would want to convert a supercharged engine to a turbo charged engine???
These cars are built for handling. Superchargers(r53) come on to power more evenly, than turbochargers. Good handling in twistie roads, requires smooth acceleration, Turbos usually have a power jump at some point. This is not conducive to handling in tight turns.
Am I missing something here?

 

Unless you are trying to build big power, I agree. Superchargers also come on sooner because they are positive displacement, while turbos need some rpms to get the exhaust gas flowing. They really help smaller motors with low torque feel like a bigger motor.

I did have an R56 in the family some years ago (automatic MCS with the lovely Rosewood leather interior). It was quicker than I thought. But I now have two Gen 1's. Guess I have voted with my wallet!

Regards,
Jerry

 

Some things to know about an R53 turbo conversion...
There are 2 basic scenarios to achieve:
1. Same power, better efficiency.
2. Big power.

For either scenario, tuning is a big issue without going to a stand alone ECU, so this should be your first consideration.

Then, scenario 1 ranges from time consuming and slightly expensive, if you do your own fab work, to time consuming and fairly expensive if you don't. But engine internals can stay basically the same. (As long as you cool it properly, boost is boost, when it comes to stress, and factory internals can handle 20 psi at the manifold, with no issues)

For scenario 2, you have the same issues as scenario 1, but "considerably" more expense. Internal upgrades range from a minimum of, oil pump, bearings and rods, to all of those things + Pistons, Machine work and balancing. And that won't even get you the power, for that you need a BVH (you can try and force more boost, but without addressing the bottle neck of the head, it's just an exercise in futility). Plus close to, or more than $1k for a clutch and then there's the issue of an LSD, if you don't have one.

But if you want to give it a try, or possibly prep for the future, then oil pump, rods and bearings, minimum.

Oh...
If we misunderstood your first post and you only mentioned turbo conversions as a reference, or decide it's going to be too much, the same basics apply for upgrades to an S/C motor, while not needed with 20 psi or less, the first steps for upgraded parts would be Rods & ARP fasteners, Main & Rod bearings, Oil Pump and ARP Head Studs. Valve Springs if you're planning on bumping your red line, and Valves if you're not going to do any other heat deterrent like better I/C or W/M.

 

I will just add my 2 shillings. On all automotive forums the baddest and most outrageous engine builds get the most of eyeballs and cheers. It typically goes on for a year or so, but the OPs go noticeably quiet and never to be heard of again. One can only infer he/she is living with the great mods happily after or just too embarrassed to admit it was just a exercise of folly. Physics and material science are jerks.