R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 drivers side inner cv boot replacement probs...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 01:56 PM
  #1  
one73ronin's Avatar
one73ronin
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 282
Likes: 5
drivers side inner cv boot replacement probs...

I can seem to get the axle out of the rotor. the nut came of ok, but when I try to tap the axle out its not moving....any suggestions?
 
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 03:29 PM
  #2  
one73ronin's Avatar
one73ronin
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 282
Likes: 5
IF I can get it out, and the decide to replace the whole axle, do I need to drain the trans
 
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 03:33 PM
  #3  
jwh's Avatar
jwh
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by one73ronin
IF I can get it out, and the decide to replace the whole axle, do I need to drain the trans
Two things:

1) You don't have to drain the transmission but it will drain itself once you remove the half-shaft from the transmission. So it's best to drain it before taking out the shaft.

2) There is nothing but the axle nut holding the wheel bearing onto the end of the axle shaft. So it's probably just rusted. The problem is when you pound on it the whole assembly gives a bit. Try resting a sledge hammer on the end of the shaft and tap it from behind with a dead-blow hammer. That should break it loose.
 
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 03:36 PM
  #4  
minibx's Avatar
minibx
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 3
From: Bronx,NY
Did you disconnect the ball joints? The hub assembly needs to be able to move just enough that the axle will pop out of the way. And some people say that you will loose a bit of tranny oil so if you do I'm guessing that you will need to add more right? If it was me I would just put fresh oil it's easy.
 
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 03:39 PM
  #5  
minibx's Avatar
minibx
5th Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 3
From: Bronx,NY
Try JWH method first when I did mine I had to take the ball joints anyways to do other work
 
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2014 | 03:42 PM
  #6  
jwh's Avatar
jwh
2nd Gear
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 3
Originally Posted by minibx
Try JWH method first when I did mine I had to take the ball joints anyways to do other work
I guess I assumed the ball joints were removed before unbolting the axle. But I don't believe you can get the bearing past the end of the axle without removing the joints.

By the way, you really will need a ball joint removal tool. These things are incredibly tight!
 
Reply
Old Jun 22, 2014 | 11:15 AM
  #7  
one73ronin's Avatar
one73ronin
Thread Starter
|
3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 282
Likes: 5
thanks for the help! i did disconnect the ball joint and the lower control arm, then once i had some friends and a sledgehammer all went well!

i had blown the boot out after my first attempt at a autocross, alot of fun, but when i was done, i had 7 codes, a quart low on oil, and a blown boot. i am fortunate to say that after i replaced a crankshaft sensor o-ring, a purge valve, and a cv boot, i am code free and running great.

i couldn't have done it, or have spent alot more money, had it not been for this forum. it truly makes owning an older mini possible.

now on to the radiator fan and power steering fan not working! easy peasy.
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
maestro39
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
3
Oct 27, 2015 02:38 PM
one73ronin
Stock Problems/Issues
8
Aug 19, 2015 12:36 PM
Redhotz
R55 :: Clubman Talk (2008+)
0
Aug 14, 2015 05:29 AM
messyjesse96
MINI Parts for Sale
3
Aug 12, 2015 05:51 AM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:14 PM.