R50/53 Rear Washer Fluid
Rear Washer Fluid
Hi Folks.
I realize that this must be a ridiculous question, but-where/how do I fill the rear window washer reservoir on my '04 R53?? Or does it share the one with the front?
Thanks!-AJ
I realize that this must be a ridiculous question, but-where/how do I fill the rear window washer reservoir on my '04 R53?? Or does it share the one with the front?
Thanks!-AJ
There are no stupid questions....
Only stupid answer...lol...
Yes...you car does use the front tank (some cars have 2 if xenon lights are installed).
Common issue is if the rear washer is not used...gunk plugs the sprayer... If left, it corrodes the sprayer, blocking forever...requiring a replacement....
Only stupid answer...lol...
Yes...you car does use the front tank (some cars have 2 if xenon lights are installed).
Common issue is if the rear washer is not used...gunk plugs the sprayer... If left, it corrodes the sprayer, blocking forever...requiring a replacement....
It's in your OM. If your MINI was purchased second hand and didn't have one, here it is in PDF file....
Owners Manual 1st Gen
"give a man a fish he eats for a day"....blah blah blah, you know the rest.... Washer info on Page 108.
Owners Manual 1st Gen
"give a man a fish he eats for a day"....blah blah blah, you know the rest.... Washer info on Page 108.
If full...and it does not spray...try a pin to unplug the sprayer...
Also one tip...
This time of year, when folks ask this question...I kinda wonder if the lines are frozen...common if non-freeze resistant fluid is used...leftover from Summer use....
I would drain the tank(s) by running the srayer(s) on a warm day....then refill with winter solution.
A frozen solid tank can rupture...costing $$ to fix.
The front washers work OK?
There's only one tank and one pump - but then some relays controlling a valve. When you activate the washer, do you hear the pump run? Do you find a puddle behind the front pass' wheel? That's where the pump is, behind the wheel well liner on the pass side, behind the wheel . . . one screw for the tank is accessed by removing the side marker light . . .
Also oft reported is the hose to the rear comes off.
If the tank is full and the pump runs and there is no puddle then either the relay/valve is sticking or there is a clogged line. (which depending on where you live could be ice as mentioned ... not a problem for me!)
{Haynes - chapter 12 part 18}
(the headlight washers when fitted are a sep system entirely . . behind the driver side wheel . . .)
There's only one tank and one pump - but then some relays controlling a valve. When you activate the washer, do you hear the pump run? Do you find a puddle behind the front pass' wheel? That's where the pump is, behind the wheel well liner on the pass side, behind the wheel . . . one screw for the tank is accessed by removing the side marker light . . .
Also oft reported is the hose to the rear comes off.
If the tank is full and the pump runs and there is no puddle then either the relay/valve is sticking or there is a clogged line. (which depending on where you live could be ice as mentioned ... not a problem for me!)
{Haynes - chapter 12 part 18}
(the headlight washers when fitted are a sep system entirely . . behind the driver side wheel . . .)
Mine was clogged when I bought it. I removed the nozzle and cleared it out with a pin, but that didn't resolve it. I took the interior panel off to investigate the assembly. It turned out the steel pipe that runs through to the motor was filled with rust. It took a few minutes jamming and twisting some various wires and rods through it to clear it out, but I was able to get it to open back up. If I remember correctly it took about 8 inches of about 1/8" rod to really get in there. A nice long drill bit of the appropriate size would of course be the best solution, but I used what I had lying around.
Mine was clogged when I bought it. I removed the nozzle and cleared it out with a pin, but that didn't resolve it. I took the interior panel off to investigate the assembly. It turned out the steel pipe that runs through to the motor was filled with rust. It took a few minutes jamming and twisting some various wires and rods through it to clear it out, but I was able to get it to open back up. If I remember correctly it took about 8 inches of about 1/8" rod to really get in there. A nice long drill bit of the appropriate size would of course be the best solution, but I used what I had lying around.
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