I'm sorry if this had been discussed before. Some of you have said that they replaced their run flat tires soon after getting their Countrymans. I'm curious to hear from folks who kept their runflats and what their experiences or views are on these tires. I'm reading awful things about these tires, and now I'm worried. I really don't wanna spend the money to replace them right away. My Countryman will be S automatic. Thanks for your opinions.

 

They're perfectly fine for mild driving. But you will notice some 'hop' in your car when you hit bumps at higher speeds due to the stiffer sidewall.

I had runflats for 6 months and then switched them out. There is peace of mind that comes with them, but since switching I enjoy the ride much better.

 

Thanks, Pidge. I guess I shouldn't worry too much. My daily drive to and from work is pretty mild and short, except for a stretch of road that has 5 speed bumps. But it will be at low speed, anyway. I will have to watch the road on weekends because that's when my family drive to my son's sports travel activities. When the time comes to replace, i'll switch to non-runflats.

 

So THAT'S what I've been feeling...dudes y'all just saved me some worrying! There is one left turn on my way home every night, it is a long sweeping left turn at a large 4 way intersection and I feel this. It's not unbearable by any means but it's funky at first.

 

Problem is, how can anyone drive a Mini in a "mild manner"? That's what Camry's and Accord's are for

When we drove a CMS on the demo ride, I was having a great time, "chriping" the tires at every opportunity

Our CMJCW is coming with the 19" "performance" run flats-we'll see just how much "performance" is in those....our idea is to use those wheels/tires from now through this winter, then purchase those outstanding nm engineering 19" gunmetal wheels made for the CM, and put some Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires on, next spring.

The OEM 19" run flats and wheels would then become our winter wheels/tires...that's the plan anyway....actual experience once we get the car could alter that!

Like the OP, we really don't want to have to spring for new rubber as soon as we buy the car....unless we just can't live with the runflats.

As far as confidence riding in a car w/o runflats and no spare is concerned, we are not worried based on our experience. We have been driving for about 30 years or so, and I can count on one hand the number of flat tires we have had in all that time. We are going to get the Slime inflator kit everyone recommends from Amazon and put it in our boot...

 

As far as safety is concerned, I think it is good the have the 'back up' when the tires deflated on highway speed.

 

+2 to what pidge1114 says... I had saved a little extra dough prior to buying my 2013 for a set of non runflats. I was going to replace them right away but was way surprised at the ride when I finally picked up the car. They were not nearly as bad as what I had read about on this forum.
Then one day I was rolling across a curving overpass bridge and hit a raised groove. The car hopped and bounced to the right- thank goodness I had a solid grip on the steering wheel.
So- I still don't mind the ride of these runflats and drive with the knowledge to be mindful of these road bumps and grooves. Some potholes cause minor jolts but others really slam the car....
I plan to weather the storm until these current tires wear out and switch to non runflats.

 

I use non runflats in the winter and use the stock runflats in the summer. Certainly the runflats are a harsher ride and they do hop when I hit a bump. They also bang so loudly when you hit a small pothole you think you have been rear ended. Scared the life out of me the first time, now I am used to it.

I drive a lot, and on crappy Quebec roads. Now into my third year of ownership and the runflats are just a quirk I have become accustomed to.

 

I've always stuck with the runflats, because in past cars I've had bad luck with things happening to my tires. Runflats really work, you can drive a long ways before they give out - which is a way nicer option than having to change a tire on a scorching freeway or in a blizzard (one past incident I had was some idiot leaving a beer bottle on the road side, which got snowed over and then I tried to park there)....

Yes they are harsher, but I never found them unbearable, and I absolutely drive with spirit. Just be prepared for it to hop a little as described for things like expansion joints or large bumps. Since the steering is so direct it doesn't really matter. I also have sport suspension which amplifies the effect. Also as described, potholes can feel like the car might have taken a hit but the tires seem fine.

Something to be aware of is that you may want to consider buying road hazard insurance for the tires, I buy mine at Discount Tire for about $100 for all four tires if I remember right (my dealer does not sell this insurance). The reason is that if you get a screw or anything that actually punctures the tire, shops will not repair any damage to a run-flat tire. That seems crazy to me, but that's how it seems to be. That may also factor in your choosing to buy non-runflats or not. I carry a plug kit which works great if you do get a screw to get you pretty much any distance to get new tires.

 

I have 38k on my OEM runflats it doesn't look like they will wear out anytime soon. Yes the ride can be a bit choppy at times but the piece of mind knowing that I don't have to deal with a flat is worth it too me. (for now at least) I have been researching new tires and choices are limited in this size.

 

I have a 2011 MINI Cooper S with 47,000 miles and I'm purchasing my third set of tires this week. I'm putting around 22,000 miles on a set of tires. This seems low to me. Is this normal?

I commute 40 miles a day and I don't drive aggressively too often. I purchased the same Continental runflats that came with the car for my second set. Would a different brand of runflat make a difference? The shop that I may purchase my new tires at recommended a Bridgestone runflat.

Thanks.

 

Sad, but 22k miles seems pretty normal on those tires. I'm at 20k on my Conti ProContacts and I doubt they'll last much past 23k.

I'll be replacing them with Conti Extreme Contact DWS by the end of the summer.

 

I have a suggestion to (somewhat) improve the run-flats' ride and drivability if you want to keep them for a while. It doesn't cost anything but a bit of dedicated time, the creation of a "log sheet", and a borrowed pyrometer.

Those who have had track racing experience know how to adjust tire pressure to maximize tire performance. Usually, this is done in concert with suspension adjustments for maximum effect, but we'll go the low-cost route and stick with a tire pressure only approach. Our goal is to adjust tire pressure until each tire's tread temperature is as uniform as possible across the width of the tread. Please note that this *may* mean that each tire's optimum temperature is different from the other three.

First, we need to get the tires to their normal operating temperature. This is easily done on a track as there is usually a mix of turns that will do a nice job of heating-up the full width of the tire's tread. However, on the street there is a concern for public safety and, more technically, the need to find the route that will be a balance of lefts and rights, braking and acceleration. Officially, I would recommend an event like a local autocross instead of the public byways. Also, at an autocross you will have the high probability of borrowing a pyrometer.

Ok, so you've found the environment that allows your tires to heat up across the tread width. Remember, it must be a fairly even mix of lefts and rights, of trail braking and turning, of turn exiting and acceleration. Now design a page of paper that show symbols of all four tires with their positions marked. Next to each tire, make a place to record the tire's temperature across the tread. Specifically, the temperature just inside (on the tread) the point where the tread meets the inside sidewall, the temperature at the center of the tread, and the temperature just inside the point where the tread meets the outer sidewall. You probably want to record 5 or 10 tread width temperature sample sets for each tire.

The goal of this exercise is to make repeated "laps" on the course checking all four tires' tread width temperatures after each lap. Then, the data should be reviewed and each tire's pressure should be adjusted (in small increments) until a uniform tire temperature is achieved after each "run" on the course. When this is achieved, it means that you have maximized the overall contact patch of your tire with the pavement. Maximizing your contact patch is the most basic element of suspension tuning. A typical contact patch will look like a flattened oval across its horizontal or vertical axis.



Note in the "static" (tire standing still) image above; it's flattened across its vertical axis since it has a fairly low section height to tread width difference. Things change a bit with a wider tire and, more generally, when the tire is rolling at speed; but accounting for those dynamics is beyond the scope of this effort. The image above is not a passenger tire, but it's a terrifically informative image. Look where the highest contact patch pressures (in red) are located and where the lowest contact patch pressures (in black) are. The vague yellowish-green semi-circular area is the area we want to maximize within the contact patch.

If, after measuring your temperatures, your tire is under-inflated, the tire temperatures near the tread shoulder will be much higher than the center tread temperature. Thus, the vague yellowish-green area will have more of a "dumbell" shape across the tread width; wider at the shoulders and narrower in the center. This means your contact patch has actually seen a reduction in its area and you are reducing the tire performance related to the contact patch area (BAD!).

If, after measuring your temperatures, your tire is over-inflated, the center temperature will be much higher than the shoulder temperatures. This results in the yellowish-green area shrinking away from the tread shoulders toward the center tread. Again, this means your contact patch has actually seen a reduction in its area and you are reducing the tire performance related to the contact patch area (also BAD!). Incidentally, many folks try to over-inflate run-flats to lessen the harshness of the ride. This only compromises the tire's contact patch related performance (regardless of "feel") and, in the worst cases, is a safety concern.

When you can achieve a consistent temperature across the tread, you know that the tire's contact patch has been maximized and you are getting as much performance as you can through adjusting pressure.

So much for the theory; now the reality:

1. It is very unlikely that you will be able to get consistent temperatures across the tread through pressure adjustments alone. However, it is the first, basic step and *should* be done by everyone. We are looking for a pressure at which the temperatures across the tread are closest to each other; that is why we record multiple pressure reading for each tire. Choose the pressure setting that minimizes these differences in temperatures across the tread.

EXAMPLE: Look at the image above. Notice how the yellowish-green area is closer to the edge of the tread at the top than the edge at the bottom? If we assume that the outside sidewall of the tire is at the top of the image, we can see that there is no amount of pressure adjustment that will shift the yellowish-green area "down" so that it is centered across the tread width (a very much desired result). The way to accomplish that would be to reduce the suspension camber so the tire is more "square" to the pavement.

2. This process takes time and is a bit frustrating -- but you will probably feel the improvement, especially when "pushing" the tires. Even if you don't feel the difference, you will be confident that you have maximized your contact patch (for free).

3. Sometimes this process feels like you are trying to level a table by sawing bits of the legs off! Make very small changes over many "runs" through your course. Things can be done quicker if you have a friend taking the temps and calling them out to you to record on the log sheet. Take the temps right away; as the tire cools, your readings will change and will disrupt the process.

4. Don't expect the optimum pressure to be the same for each tire when you are done! Many things influence a tire's contact patch: suspension setup, front/rear weight balance, driver weight and location, etc. And never rely on someone else's pressure settings; they may be a good starting value but your optimum will vary from other's settings.

5. This process isn't just for run-flats. I *strongly* suggest performing this process for anyone who is contemplating what suspension changes to make AFTER switching out their run-flats. Maximize your contact patch with pressures BEFORE adding parts (swaybars, camber plate, coil-overs, LCAs, etc.). Further, change one thing at a time. Get your baseline contact patch then make a single component change. Now, see how the change affected your contact patch and readjust pressures (if necessary). You are always trying to get the temperatures even across the tread and the yellowish-green area to be centered across the width of the tread.

6. Finally, don't expect grand miracles with tire pressure changes alone! Those who are sensitive to the tire induced dynamics of their car will feel a difference. However, we ARE talking about a tire that has used the goal of "compromise" in its design!

FWIW

 

RUNFLATS SUCK! Just last week I got a flat.... Yes a flat runflat..... Drove less than 10 miles on it and took it off thinking that I can go plug it but to my surprise the tire was ruined beyond fixing.... Called 2 dozen tire suppliers and several dealerships( not mini) and NOONE had the tire, all said it was a special order item.... So had to call roadside assistance since I was 75 miles away from home or nearest mini dealer and had to tow car back to dealer.... And had my wife come pick me up..... MY FIX? I got a sports rack on my CMSALL4 and I'm gonna mount a spare on it!!!

 

I do most of my driving in NYC = potholes. Last two time my run flats hit potholes the front pass side blew a chunk from the side wall. Could not be fixed had to tow car and replace it.
Now I have reg tires, and a spare in the car.

Hit a massive pothole again with reg tires NO issues .

 

I drove on my run flats for several months before I could not stand them any longer. You could certainly do the same if you like. Once I ditched them (back in 07), I never looked back.

 

That's happens with pothole :-( . I domt know what result with no runflats... may be the wheel was broken? ...

 

Imagine what an 18" rim (w/45s) would look like after hitting that pothole

 

I imagine.. my last car has 225/35/17 .. is for that I choose 17' rims, even I like much more 18 aesthetics...

 

I guess nothing bad would happen with normal tires - they have softer sidewall.

 

With a normal tire probably the wheel would have been seriously bent. The runflat took most of the force of the impact rather than of the wheel.

 

I think so ! was really big impact.. And I drove 80 kms without problems.. mIn prole, was replace also the other front tyre.. 400 euros... (but may be cheaper than replacing bended wheel)

 

I'm now on my third MINI (a 2012 Countryman with runflats). My first, a 2006 R50 Checkmate had runflats, and my '10 R56 did not.

I have never had any issues with runflat tires and the ones on my first MINI were an earlier generation (and not nearly as good as the ones on my CM). The newer ones are definitely improved. Yes, they give a much harsher ride, especially with the sport suspension. They can also lead to a bit of "bump steer" (but so can non-RF low profile tires). Stiffer sidewalls are needed to carry the weight of the car if the air goes out of the tire. For me, peace of mind is worth the tradeoff.

 

I'm the OP of this thread. I've had my CMS for a week now and I thought I'd give a review of the runflat tires that I was so worried about prior to delivery. Well, I'm quite pleasantly surprised that the runflats are actually alright. Let me say, though, that my daily drive is light and the roads are in good shape. And I tend to be careful when there is a bump. But I had my hubby drive it on the second day and upon going over a speed bump, he wasn't as careful and we heard sort of a "crash/clank" sound but all was ok. Also, while driving on the highway this weekend, I noticed it was loud when going at a higher speed.
I do plan to stick with these tires until they wear out, then I'll get non-runflats.

 

I have the all season runflats on 17s with a sport suspension.

I have no issues with them at all. They don't run hard for me.

I was actually a little surprised to see that they could handle my shenanegans on my commute. I find them very forgiving on rough pavement (DC pot holes) as well as easily controlled on corners when I really push the car. I often take it to the point of letting the rear of the car squirm and it does very well.