R50/53 New crank pulley - New noises
New crank pulley - New noises
Just installed a Fluid dampener that I got from WMW. However, upon acceleration, along with the S/C whine, there is another more faint whine that winds up faster the faster I go. It stops when I put the car in neutral so it must be a pulley.
Is it at all possible to over tighten the crank bolt? How much space should there be between pulley and engine?
Also, the car makes a put put type of noise...which started when my first pulley failed on me. I can't explain it.
Thanks for the help,
Tab32
Is it at all possible to over tighten the crank bolt? How much space should there be between pulley and engine?
Also, the car makes a put put type of noise...which started when my first pulley failed on me. I can't explain it.
Thanks for the help,
Tab32
I do not understand why you say that it must be the pulley because when you put it in neutral the noise stops. The pulley still turns when the car is in neutral because the engine is still running.
It could be that the pulley is not on correctly and the belt is not aligned properly causing a noise.
It could be that one of the bearings is going bad on any one of the pulleys/accessories (such as the belt tensioner, alternator or AC). You might be able to see the mis-alignment.
You will need to isolate the noise. Maybe you can get the noise to happen with the car standing still by getting the engine to a certain RPM. Then you can listen to various components to try to determine which one is making noise. I use a stethoscope made for cars but you can also put you ear on a long screwdriver to probe various places (not moving pieces) but be careful.
It could be that the pulley is not on correctly and the belt is not aligned properly causing a noise.
It could be that one of the bearings is going bad on any one of the pulleys/accessories (such as the belt tensioner, alternator or AC). You might be able to see the mis-alignment.
You will need to isolate the noise. Maybe you can get the noise to happen with the car standing still by getting the engine to a certain RPM. Then you can listen to various components to try to determine which one is making noise. I use a stethoscope made for cars but you can also put you ear on a long screwdriver to probe various places (not moving pieces) but be careful.
Yes, i understand the pulley turns when in neutral, but it doesn't turn fast enough for the noise to be heard. It gets louder the higher the rpm's go.
I will check the belt alignment again I suppose.
I will check the belt alignment again I suppose.
Here is a link to the stethoscope I use. Very cheap and I use it all the time.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-41966.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-41966.html
i was having that same problem, but i was having belt slip too, unless you have an adjustable tensioner, you should tighten it.
i was using a belt size 060539, and i needed a 060535, i am currenly running a 17% with a 2% crank pulley, belt swap fixed the slip, but now im hearing the screech and it isnt belt slip, i used a stethoscope and ifgured out my tensioner pulley was going bad
use a stethoscope and put it against the tensioner while running, if its bad, you should be able to hear a clicking noise at idle
be aware that there are two idler pulleys, the one at the tensioner and the one in between the alternator and crank pulley. make sure to check both of them
if you do find that the bearing on the pulley is bad, ecs tuning sells some for about 36 dollars, they are not oem, but you are only looking at a bearing to replace, ecs also sells oem if you dont mind spending the extra
hope you figure it out, ive been having the same problem for 3 weeks, figured it out on monday
i was using a belt size 060539, and i needed a 060535, i am currenly running a 17% with a 2% crank pulley, belt swap fixed the slip, but now im hearing the screech and it isnt belt slip, i used a stethoscope and ifgured out my tensioner pulley was going bad
use a stethoscope and put it against the tensioner while running, if its bad, you should be able to hear a clicking noise at idle
be aware that there are two idler pulleys, the one at the tensioner and the one in between the alternator and crank pulley. make sure to check both of them
if you do find that the bearing on the pulley is bad, ecs tuning sells some for about 36 dollars, they are not oem, but you are only looking at a bearing to replace, ecs also sells oem if you dont mind spending the extra
hope you figure it out, ive been having the same problem for 3 weeks, figured it out on monday
Well the second noise was low compression from cylinder 1, but i tightened up the spark plug and it's all good.
Still don't know about that other whine. it sounds like the belt is rubbing on something? Alignment looks good, but I don't know how to tell other than looking at how it's seated on all the pulley -- and they all look good.
Again, it's like a wind up noise of something rubbing.
Still don't know about that other whine. it sounds like the belt is rubbing on something? Alignment looks good, but I don't know how to tell other than looking at how it's seated on all the pulley -- and they all look good.
Again, it's like a wind up noise of something rubbing.
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