R50/53 Multi Weight Oil vs Sync $ Oil
Multi Weight Oil vs Sync $ Oil
Has anyone used Multi Weight Oil in their Mini S instead of the expensive
Man Made Stuff ?
Comments on the drawbacks except having to change it more often ??
Thanks
Man Made Stuff ?
Comments on the drawbacks except having to change it more often ??
Thanks
An Important consideration is warranty MINI specifies: MINI oil or:
(You need to sign in to the Owner's Lounge to view this)
https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/Warranty.aspx
Quote:
The oils listed below meet MINI’s Long-life rating and are acceptable for use in MINIs in the US market with gasoline engines.
Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30
(You need to sign in to the Owner's Lounge to view this)
https://ol.miniusa.com/auth/Warranty.aspx
Quote:
The oils listed below meet MINI’s Long-life rating and are acceptable for use in MINIs in the US market with gasoline engines.
Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market
- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30
Other parts of the warranty section also states...
MINI High Performance Synthetic Oil is recommended for scheduled engine oil changes: MINI High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 Oil (MINI part number 07 51 0 143 829)
and...
Only use oils with an API rating of SM or higher. The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic condition in the region in which you normally drive your MINI.
My understanding is:
1. the oil must be API SM or higher
2. the oil viscosity must be appropriate to the climate condition
The reason to go with synthetic oil is to extend the change interval while providing better protection, especially in cold temps below 50*F where synthetic flows better. I've been using Mobil 1 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40 and 15w-50 straight or mixed in my 2001 VW 1.8T New Beetle. Last Spring at 155,000 miles, I replaced a leaky valve cover gasket. With the valve cover off, I couldn't believe how clean the valve-train was; the metal colors have no tinge on them. The only slight bit of honey-colored varnishing was on the inside of the valve cover. The car currently has 167k miles.
If you're concerned about cost and no longer have a warranty, there's nothing wrong with using conventional DINO oil. Just use the correct viscosity and replace the oil more often... ie 5000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first.
MINI High Performance Synthetic Oil is recommended for scheduled engine oil changes: MINI High Performance Synthetic 5W-30 Oil (MINI part number 07 51 0 143 829)
and...
Only use oils with an API rating of SM or higher. The choice of the right SAE grade is based on the climatic condition in the region in which you normally drive your MINI.
My understanding is:
1. the oil must be API SM or higher
2. the oil viscosity must be appropriate to the climate condition
The reason to go with synthetic oil is to extend the change interval while providing better protection, especially in cold temps below 50*F where synthetic flows better. I've been using Mobil 1 5w-30, 10w-30, 0w-40 and 15w-50 straight or mixed in my 2001 VW 1.8T New Beetle. Last Spring at 155,000 miles, I replaced a leaky valve cover gasket. With the valve cover off, I couldn't believe how clean the valve-train was; the metal colors have no tinge on them. The only slight bit of honey-colored varnishing was on the inside of the valve cover. The car currently has 167k miles.
If you're concerned about cost and no longer have a warranty, there's nothing wrong with using conventional DINO oil. Just use the correct viscosity and replace the oil more often... ie 5000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first.
Last edited by Cadenza; Jan 27, 2010 at 07:12 PM.
The cost of synthetic oil is a bit of a shocker....but if you do oil changes at the recommended interval, it is cheaper when you take into account the costs of the filters, the time it takes to change the oil....and the MPG improvement. Honest. In my previous cars I saw about a 1 MPG improvement when i switched. that and a much longer life, and better oxidation resistance....I would think you are nutz to use anything other than synthetic oil. It may cost 3x as much....but it lasts 3x as long....oil analysts prove it...and you motor will last longer, and be cleaner!!
Ever hear the old saying....Penny wise, Pound Foolish, or the saying tripped over a dollar to pick up a penny. If you use regular oil when the manufacturer REQUIRES synthetic oil, you have a false sense of economy. If you are doing that...you might as well run your car on 87 octane...and when you start getting misfire codes, or crack your head, or brake a piston, or set of rings...you will be sorry. it happens...quite a bit. people talk all day about how it is ok to do....but down the road the bill will be paid by somebody......will it be you?!
Ever hear the old saying....Penny wise, Pound Foolish, or the saying tripped over a dollar to pick up a penny. If you use regular oil when the manufacturer REQUIRES synthetic oil, you have a false sense of economy. If you are doing that...you might as well run your car on 87 octane...and when you start getting misfire codes, or crack your head, or brake a piston, or set of rings...you will be sorry. it happens...quite a bit. people talk all day about how it is ok to do....but down the road the bill will be paid by somebody......will it be you?!
The cost of synthetic oil is a bit of a shocker....but if you do oil changes at the recommended interval, it is cheaper when you take into account the costs of the filters, the time it takes to change the oil....and the MPG improvement. Honest. In my previous cars I saw about a 1 MPG improvement when i switched. that and a much longer life, and better oxidation resistance....I would think you are nutz to use anything other than synthetic oil. It may cost 3x as much....but it lasts 3x as long....oil analysts prove it...and you motor will last longer, and be cleaner!!
Ever hear the old saying....Penny wise, Pound Foolish, or the saying tripped over a dollar to pick up a penny. If you use regular oil when the manufacturer REQUIRES synthetic oil, you have a false sense of economy. If you are doing that...you might as well run your car on 87 octane...and when you start getting misfire codes, or crack your head, or brake a piston, or set of rings...you will be sorry. it happens...quite a bit. people talk all day about how it is ok to do....but down the road the bill will be paid by somebody......will it be you?!
Ever hear the old saying....Penny wise, Pound Foolish, or the saying tripped over a dollar to pick up a penny. If you use regular oil when the manufacturer REQUIRES synthetic oil, you have a false sense of economy. If you are doing that...you might as well run your car on 87 octane...and when you start getting misfire codes, or crack your head, or brake a piston, or set of rings...you will be sorry. it happens...quite a bit. people talk all day about how it is ok to do....but down the road the bill will be paid by somebody......will it be you?!
In all seriousness, the truth has been spoken!!!
The cost of synthetic oil is a bit of a shocker....but if you do oil changes at the recommended interval, it is cheaper when you take into account the costs of the filters, the time it takes to change the oil....and the MPG improvement. Honest. In my previous cars I saw about a 1 MPG improvement when i switched. that and a much longer life, and better oxidation resistance....I would think you are nutz to use anything other than synthetic oil. It may cost 3x as much....but it lasts 3x as long....oil analysts prove it...and you motor will last longer, and be cleaner!!
Ever hear the old saying....Penny wise, Pound Foolish, or the saying tripped over a dollar to pick up a penny. If you use regular oil when the manufacturer REQUIRES synthetic oil, you have a false sense of economy. If you are doing that...you might as well run your car on 87 octane...and when you start getting misfire codes, or crack your head, or brake a piston, or set of rings...you will be sorry. it happens...quite a bit. people talk all day about how it is ok to do....but down the road the bill will be paid by somebody......will it be you?!
Ever hear the old saying....Penny wise, Pound Foolish, or the saying tripped over a dollar to pick up a penny. If you use regular oil when the manufacturer REQUIRES synthetic oil, you have a false sense of economy. If you are doing that...you might as well run your car on 87 octane...and when you start getting misfire codes, or crack your head, or brake a piston, or set of rings...you will be sorry. it happens...quite a bit. people talk all day about how it is ok to do....but down the road the bill will be paid by somebody......will it be you?!
I will stress that the OIL choice is even MORE important in the GEN2 turbo cars than on our GEN1 Supercharged cars. But still, the OIL must meet BMW/MINI specs, AND be API SM rated or higher....the important word here is AND. If the oil is just API SM rated....it is not supposed to be used, UNLESS it also meets BMW specs. For this to happen, it basically must be a syentic, as all the "approved oils" that meet these specs are syenthics.
It is your car, and do what you want, but I just want you to understand that you may be doing damage to your baby, in hopes of saving a couple of dollars. IMO you would be better off doing ONE synthetic oil change every 15,000 miles, than 5 standard oil changes every 3000 miles. Period. Doing that math....$5-8 a filter, it is MUCH cheaper to do the ONE filter and oil change.
Like I said welcome to NAM.....have fun!!
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