Suspension New TSW LCA, New F1-GS D3's, New Alignment ?'s on Results
New TSW LCA, New F1-GS D3's, New Alignment ?'s on Results
Ok, I had aftermarket LCA's that were not adjustable, which caused my KDW's to wear out crazy bad on the inside. The tire was also scaloped very very badly. All of the suspension items, (H&R Springs, LCA's, cabrio bars, Adjustable sway bar) and the KDW's were on the car when I bought it. I purchased TSW LCA's and F1 GS D3's and had the car aligned:
Before Alignment:
Front Left Camber: -1.0 Degree
Front Left Toe: .29 Degree (which is toe in right?)
Front Right Camber: -.9 Degree
Front Right Toe: -.33 Degree (which is toe out right?)
Rear Left Camber: -.9 Degrees
Rear Left Toe: -.15 Degrees (which is toe out right?)
Rear Right Camber: -.6 Degrees
Rear Right Toe: .03 Degrees (which is toe in right?)
AFTER ALIGNMENT:
Front Left Camber: -1.0 Degree
Front Left Toe: .15 Degree (the computer said that was neutral)
Front Right Camber: -.8 Degree
Front Right Toe: -.16 Degree (the computer said that was almost neutral)
Rear Left Camber: -1.3 Degrees
Rear Left Toe: .26 Degrees (the tech said that was 1/16 toe in)
Rear Right Camber: -1.3 Degrees
Rear Right Toe: .25 Degrees (the tech said that was near 1/16 toe in)
Total Toe Front: .31 degrees
Total toe Rear: .52 degrees
Impressions:
Way more stable at high speed, does not tramline or hunt, does not feel as twitchy at high speed, not as snappy high speed or low speed. When driving around in a parking lot it does not feel as "go-cart" like. Side walls definatey have more "give"
The questions that I have are:
1. The rear camber was not as "off" as I had anticipated. The inside of my tires were almost smooth and they had been rotated.
2. The right front tire toe was extremely toe out and the right left was toe in?
3. Did the tech convert inches to degrees correctly? I asked for -1.3 camber rear with 1/16" toe in. And as close to neutral toe in the front. The computer screen had an illustration of where the tire is and according to the screen for the fronts .15 degrees was dead center and in the back I think .20 degrees was center therefore .26 degrees was 1/16 of an inch toe in?
Is this wrong...I am going to be keeping an eye on my tires real close to see any abnormal wear patterns.
Here is a scan of the spec sheet:
Before Alignment:
Front Left Camber: -1.0 Degree
Front Left Toe: .29 Degree (which is toe in right?)
Front Right Camber: -.9 Degree
Front Right Toe: -.33 Degree (which is toe out right?)
Rear Left Camber: -.9 Degrees
Rear Left Toe: -.15 Degrees (which is toe out right?)
Rear Right Camber: -.6 Degrees
Rear Right Toe: .03 Degrees (which is toe in right?)
AFTER ALIGNMENT:
Front Left Camber: -1.0 Degree
Front Left Toe: .15 Degree (the computer said that was neutral)
Front Right Camber: -.8 Degree
Front Right Toe: -.16 Degree (the computer said that was almost neutral)
Rear Left Camber: -1.3 Degrees
Rear Left Toe: .26 Degrees (the tech said that was 1/16 toe in)
Rear Right Camber: -1.3 Degrees
Rear Right Toe: .25 Degrees (the tech said that was near 1/16 toe in)
Total Toe Front: .31 degrees
Total toe Rear: .52 degrees
Impressions:
Way more stable at high speed, does not tramline or hunt, does not feel as twitchy at high speed, not as snappy high speed or low speed. When driving around in a parking lot it does not feel as "go-cart" like. Side walls definatey have more "give"
The questions that I have are:
1. The rear camber was not as "off" as I had anticipated. The inside of my tires were almost smooth and they had been rotated.
2. The right front tire toe was extremely toe out and the right left was toe in?
3. Did the tech convert inches to degrees correctly? I asked for -1.3 camber rear with 1/16" toe in. And as close to neutral toe in the front. The computer screen had an illustration of where the tire is and according to the screen for the fronts .15 degrees was dead center and in the back I think .20 degrees was center therefore .26 degrees was 1/16 of an inch toe in?
Is this wrong...I am going to be keeping an eye on my tires real close to see any abnormal wear patterns.
Here is a scan of the spec sheet:
Last edited by jtack; Oct 13, 2008 at 08:00 AM.
how could it have been better before the alignment when my front right tire was toed way out and my front left tire was toed in...and my rear tires were opposite of that with the right tire toed in and my left tire toed out.
Kind of like this:
/ / Front
\ \ Rear
Yep, that looks pretty good alright
Kind of like this:
/ / Front
\ \ Rear
Yep, that looks pretty good alright
This should help...
http://www.smartracingproducts.com/p...e_settings.pdf (to read the chart, use the overall diameter of the wheel/tire at the bottom and line it up with the curves to convert to degrees)
If you're running 16's (according to your car specs you are), you need to figure in the overall diameter of the wheel and tire combination (according to Tire Rack's website, the 205/50R16 GS-D3 is 24.1"). It appears it's closer to 1/16" in for both of the fronts according to your scan? (left and right). Aren't both toe measurements positive? It appears he just put you back within spec for the fronts, rather than neutral (or 0 total toe). The rear looks like it's closer to 3/32" toe in, which is closer to 3/16" total toe in (3/32 on each side) instead of 1/8". They should have been able to nail the front and the rear better than that, IMHO. Is it a beating to chase 1/16"? Yes. Big deal, you're paying for it. I've chased it for 2 hours before... hah! Most techs get lazy - good techs will do exactly what you ask them to (e.g. Autoscope Motorsports here in Dallas).
Before, yes, the toe was out on one side and in on the other as you said - that's quite odd.
-1.3 in the rear is a good place to be for the street.
We like zero/neutral toe in the front and 1/8" total toe IN for the rear. It doesn't surprise me that the car feels more stable with your alignment - toe in for the rear contributes a lot to that, but you're likely losing a bit of crispness in the turn-in with your front settings.
http://www.smartracingproducts.com/p...e_settings.pdf (to read the chart, use the overall diameter of the wheel/tire at the bottom and line it up with the curves to convert to degrees)
If you're running 16's (according to your car specs you are), you need to figure in the overall diameter of the wheel and tire combination (according to Tire Rack's website, the 205/50R16 GS-D3 is 24.1"). It appears it's closer to 1/16" in for both of the fronts according to your scan? (left and right). Aren't both toe measurements positive? It appears he just put you back within spec for the fronts, rather than neutral (or 0 total toe). The rear looks like it's closer to 3/32" toe in, which is closer to 3/16" total toe in (3/32 on each side) instead of 1/8". They should have been able to nail the front and the rear better than that, IMHO. Is it a beating to chase 1/16"? Yes. Big deal, you're paying for it. I've chased it for 2 hours before... hah! Most techs get lazy - good techs will do exactly what you ask them to (e.g. Autoscope Motorsports here in Dallas).
Before, yes, the toe was out on one side and in on the other as you said - that's quite odd.
-1.3 in the rear is a good place to be for the street.
We like zero/neutral toe in the front and 1/8" total toe IN for the rear. It doesn't surprise me that the car feels more stable with your alignment - toe in for the rear contributes a lot to that, but you're likely losing a bit of crispness in the turn-in with your front settings.
Last edited by txwerks; Oct 13, 2008 at 08:11 PM.
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