I would like to give BIG THANKS to the METROPLEX MINIS CLUB for putting together a fantastic video for this DIY project:

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...80665043683682

I started the project at 11:30am EST and ran into my first problem at noon, but I refused to give up!

Although I had to take several breaks throughout the day due to heat & needing to eat, I finally had everything back together at 7pm-ish.

I'm fairly certain that the video features an "S"...I have a JustaCooper and I immediately noticed that I didn't have a lot of space on the passenger side.

I had no problems loosening & removing the bolts from the OEM swaybar, the endlinks, the strut towers, the bushing brackets or the subframe bolts that are located in the wheel well area.

I did, however, have BIG problems with the subframe bolts that aren't located in the wheel well area. Two heavy applications of WD40 and the use of a BFH (Big F'n Hammer, LOL) loosened up those #%&@! bolts!

I loosened the subframe bolt closest to the driver side and then decided NOT to completely remove the subframe bolt closest to the passenger side. I was able to remove the OEM swaybar and slide in the new H-Sport Comp. swaybar without any difficulty whatsoever. Best of all, because I hadn't completely removed the 4th subframe bolt, it was very easy for me to lift the subframe via the hammer-on-floorjack method to get the driver side subframe bolt reinstalled. Did the "newton meter-to-pounds foot" torque conversion and ONLY used my torque wrenches to properly set & check the torques.

I did have a slight variation to the removal & reinstallation of the bushing brackets--this method worked for me and maybe it will work for you, too!

I have a 2006 Cooper (October 2006 build date) and it was IMPOSSIBLE for me to get a socket, ratchet boxwrench OR monkeywrench onto the bolt nearest the front of the car until AFTER I had dropped the subframe. On my 2006, there's metal that sits so close to the bracket bolts that there truly wasn't any room to manuever any tools at all! By dropping the subframe (except for removing the last "inside" bolt on the passenger side) I had more than enough room to use the socket on that front bolt. When I reinstalled the bolt that's nearest the rear bumper, I actually used a pair of visegrips to hold the bushing bracket down so that I could get the bolt installed. Freed up my hands to concentrate on that pesky bolt! When it was time to reinstall the bushing brackets, I made sure to reinstall, tighten & torque to spec BEFORE the subframe was reinstalled, tightened & torqued to spec.

Took Schultze out for a test drive and had a BLAST! No squeaking and the change was definitely noticeable on my twisty test drive into Suffolk & back!
I did several "figure eights" using the parking lot islands at the local highschool...and the feel was fantastic!

Next on my list of DIY installations:

Megan Coilovers
H-Sport Rear Control Arms

I'm tired...sore...and sunburned...and I did chip a nail, but it's worth it!





I reinstalled the bushing bracket bolt that's closest to the front of the car--after applying Blue Loctite on the threads.