I bought a second pair of Wipec 5.5" driving lights for Fiona, and I was perusing the wiring diagram... It's weird!

1. They do not suggest using a fuse on the main 12V power wire from the battery. Really? Send UNFUSED power direct to the lamps? Now I'm starting to figure out why so many people say the wiring on their Mini fries!

2. There's no ground wire for the bulbs. Looks like the ground is supplied straight from the mounting nut. I guess they have the lamp ground soldered directly to the rivits holding the mounting bracket to the chrome lamp bowl... Well there IS only one wire to connect to each lamp this way, I guess...

I'll be driving the lights in 2 pairs, with each pair triggered form a relay. I'll use a separate fuse in-line on the 12V supply for each pair for max safety. The question is: what size fuse have you used to drive 2 55W lamps? Obviously the proper fuse will lead to the safest possible installation.

Also, is there any place under the bonnet to tap in to get the positive 12V, or must I run a wire back to the positive battery terminal in the boot? My 2006 has a handy positive terminal right next to the air filter for convenience - does the classic have something similar? Obviously I don't want to tap into one of the 4 fuses in the main fusebox, as the extra load from 4 driving lights will probably overdrive the existing fusing.

Thanks!

 

Fuse size per pair would be 10A, right?

55W lamps X2 = 110W/12V = 9.16A (10A).

Or am I multiplying and dividing the wrong values? Wattage/Voltage = Amperage, right?

 

The stock Wipec lamps that came on my classic had a ground wire, but the new ones I bought didn't, they are grounded thru the mount to the nut (bolt). I added a fuse just cuz, I think its a 10A.

My stock Wipec lamps are wired to the high beam switch, and the ones I added I ran a seperate relay.

Nik

 

That's right. Power = Voltage * Current

10A is probably in the ballpark. If a 10A fuse occasionally pops for whatever reason (extra 'inrush' current when first turning on the lights, inaccuracy in the reported wattage, etcetera), you can go with larger fuses, as long as the fuse will still blow before any damage is done to the wiring. I don't know what size wire came with the lights, but 14-gauge wire is good for about 17A, and 12-gauge wire is good for about 23A, so you could raise the fuse rating up to 15A or 20A, respectively.

As for the power source under the bonnet, I don't own a classic Mini, but every car I've ever owned has a heavy-gauge constant-power lead going to the starter, so you might check there.

BTW - "Fiona" is the name of my wife's MINI, too!

 

I ran power of the HOT (batt cable) side of the starter solenoid, thru fuses, to relays to lamps. I then ran switch power from the regular fuse block to switch to relay, to ground.

 

Make sure you stock up on this stuff to top off your battery. I think you're getting ready to use some up. If you run out, your car won't work anymore.

 

Hehehe... liquid smoke!

So the positive wire running to the starter solenoid is UNFUSED and runs directly back to the positive terminal on the battery? Obviously I'd prefer to use a switched source (that way if I accidentally leave the lights on when I walk away for the car they won't kill the battery), but as far as I know all of the switched power goes through the main fuse box. My concern is that the extra draw from the driving lamps might pop one of the 4 main fuses. But, my headlamps are not switched currently, so it's not like I don't have to check them as it is before walking away from the car.

Thanks!

 

use a relay and wire the switch current to the ignition or your headlamps.
Positive heavy guage wire to the relay can be use with a fuse if you choose, but if anything bad happens it'll only fry the relay.
Fuse to the switch wire is ideal since it's connected to the car's wiring and can protect other systems.

 

Riiiiiight... I forgot that I can use switched current for the triggering voltage - excellent idea! That way I can still direct-wire the actual lamp voltage to the battery wire - without triggering voltage to power the relay it will disconnect the 12V driving the lamps.

Thanks!

 

You can get unfused unswitched 12V from the left hand side (as you look at the block) of the fuse block, no. 1 fuse. There should be a spare spade lug there. As Minimad described, You can also get raw 12V from the starter solonoid.

 

Good to know... This is my final wiring diagram (assuming I use the starter solenoid connection). I don't know exactly what that looks like, though, so I might use the connection on the left of the fuse block as you say...



I did an installation How-to for my 2006's driving lamps - would people like to see one for the classic as well? If so I'll document the installation as I go.

 

And the relay contacts are rated for AT LEAST 20 amps? If not, I'd suggest a relay for each pair of lights. Just parallel the 86 lug. These relays are cheap - $3-$4 at Advance Auto. Be conservative.

 

I think they're rated for 40+ actually...