North American Motoring

North American Motoring (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/)
-   F55/F56 :: Hatch Talk (2014+) (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/f55-f56-hatch-talk-2014-428/)
-   -   F55/F56 Looked into Retrofitting Rear Fogs (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/f55-f56-hatch-talk-2014/274615-looked-into-retrofitting-rear-fogs.html)

superior detail_F56 02-10-2017 11:47 AM

I looked into purchasing all the needed stuff to wire this to the factory harness but decided to just hardwire them. There are already bulbs and a factory harness connected to them and all I did was cut the rear fog light harness and tap them into the lights on the rear plastic trim.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...da1be95b6e.png

hp79 02-10-2017 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by superior detail_F56 (Post 4279285)
I looked into purchasing all the needed stuff to wire this to the factory harness but decided to just hardwire them. There are already bulbs and a factory harness connected to them and all I did was cut the rear fog light harness and tap them into the lights on the rear plastic trim.
...

Awesome. Was it a lot of work? Where did you power it to and where did you tap power from?
I may want to do this too but I don't want the light to be too bright as it'll be on all the time.

superior detail_F56 02-10-2017 11:58 AM


Originally Posted by hp79 (Post 4279289)
Awesome. Was it a lot of work? Where did you power it to and where did you tap power from?
I may want to do this too but I don't want the light to be too bright as it'll be on all the time.

Honestly it is not brighter than the taillights! I removed the rear wheels to have room to work and then removed the rear inner plastics in the wheel wells. I cut the factory harness thats in place for the rear fog lights then tapped them into the harness for the lights on the rear black trim. Thats the cheap way to have functioning rear fog lights. You can also wire the lights to a separate switch if you'd like but thats another task. But just a matter of running wires.

hp79 02-10-2017 12:04 PM


Originally Posted by superior detail_F56 (Post 4279291)
Honestly it is not brighter than the taillights! I removed the rear wheels to have room to work and then removed the rear inner plastics in the wheel wells. I cut the factory harness thats in place for the rear fog lights then tapped them into the harness for the lights on the rear black trim. Thats the cheap way to have functioning rear fog lights. You can also wire the lights to a separate switch if you'd like but thats another task. But just a matter of running wires.

These are LED lights, and I'm wondering why there's even ICs (shown in the first page of this thread) where it shows the circuit board. So I'm thinking it's not just tap power and hook them up. Did you tap the power from and to the LED that's soldered on the board or can you just provide a 12V into the plug on the module itself and it'll light up?

superior detail_F56 02-10-2017 12:07 PM


Originally Posted by hp79 (Post 4279295)
These are LED lights, and I'm wondering why there's even ICs (shown in the first page of this thread) where it shows the circuit board. So I'm thinking it's not just tap power and hook them up. Did you tap the power from and to the LED that's soldered on the board or can you just provide a 12V into the plug on the module itself and it'll light up?

The bulbs are just standard halogens. No LEDS were in mine at least. No tapping was done to the circuit board. I tapped into an existing harness for POWER and GROUND. Just a matter of tapping two wires to (one for power and one to ground it out) and you are golden.

hp79 02-10-2017 12:09 PM


Originally Posted by superior detail_F56 (Post 4279297)
The bulbs are just standard halogens. No LEDS were in mine at least. No tapping was done to the circuit board. I tapped into an existing harness for POWER and GROUND. Just a matter of tapping two wires to (one for power and one to ground it out) and you are golden.

Oh.. I see. I thought all F56 had LED lights for the rear fog light.

superior detail_F56 02-10-2017 12:13 PM


Originally Posted by hp79 (Post 4279299)
Oh.. I see. I thought all F56 had LED lights for the rear fog light.

Mine didn't come with them but I was looking to add them in as it is an easy swap.

hp79 02-10-2017 12:19 PM


Originally Posted by superior detail_F56 (Post 4279300)
Mine didn't come with them but I was looking to add them in as it is an easy swap.

I don't really like the easy swap because it's actually just fooling the computer and using same energy. The computer in the car will check for load on the bulb and since LED bulbs have such little load compared to regular bulbs, it'll throw an error thinking the bulb has burnt out. That's why "canbus-LEDs" have a resistor added to the LED to fool the computer. Downside of this is that there's wasted power burned up as heat, so there's no gain in energy efficiency if you go this way. LED light plus all the extra heat coming from the resistor makes it almost as hot as a regular bulb. One of mine actually melted the soldering because the heat and broke into two pieces for the glovebox.

I tried tweaking the coding in E-SYS so that it doesn't check for brake lights, but wasn't successful at it so I switched back to normal bulbs.

Minnie.the.Moocher 02-10-2017 05:42 PM


Originally Posted by superior detail_F56 (Post 4279291)
Honestly it is not brighter than the taillights! I removed the rear wheels to have room to work and then removed the rear inner plastics in the wheel wells. I cut the factory harness thats in place for the rear fog lights then tapped them into the harness for the lights on the rear black trim. Thats the cheap way to have functioning rear fog lights. You can also wire the lights to a separate switch if you'd like but thats another task. But just a matter of running wires.

Nice idea, is it obvious which wires to tap or does it require a bit of digging?

superior detail_F56 02-11-2017 07:10 AM


Originally Posted by Minnie.the.Moocher (Post 4279368)
Nice idea, is it obvious which wires to tap or does it require a bit of digging?

Its obvious. Just take the two wires from the rear fog and tap them into the two wires for the side lights on the rear trim. I believe they are black(ground) and brown (power)

pw1114 08-24-2017 10:19 PM


Originally Posted by spacecadet (Post 4025266)
As I just posted in the coding thread, you need to do the following - not just buying the switch, but also using e-sys to enable the feature in the body domain controller (BDC)




First, purchase the version of the light switch for your car that includes the rear fog switch and fit it.


Then, the following coding is required to make them work,


1) add option 5AA rear fogs to the VO (vehicle order)


then in the BDC, code the following :-


2) 3068, NSL_Verbaut = Verbaut


(This enables the BDC to sense the switch, if you just code this and try the lights, it just activates the symbol on the instrument cluster but does nothing else)




3)


3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_L_output = nsl_l
3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_L_Function = nebelschlusslicht
3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_R_output = nsl_l
3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_R_Function = nebelschlusslicht




These options enable the correct outputs on the BDC to activate the lights. You could choose to have only one light on if you wished




After doing all the above, you will have fully working rear fogs, confirming that both the wiring is already in place, and BMW rape your wallet for a $100 option that only needs probably an extra $1 in components in the switch module. They obviously have a very savvy marketing department who have figured out perceived value of such options like this that cost them next to nothing


BTW, the OP was asking about the light switch connector. It is three wires no matter what version/options you have. Power, ground, CANBUS. This is typical of multiplexed wiring used by BMW.

For my F54 Clubman, step 1 was not required. I only coded steps 2 and 3 to activate rear foglights left and right. Car has LED lighting package. Maybe newer cars don't need step 1, i don't know. I bought the light switch off eBay for 39 dollars shipped. So its cheap and easy.

I did the coding through Bimmercode app, not e-sys.

mkt3000 08-25-2017 06:55 AM


Originally Posted by pw1114 (Post 4324997)
For my F54 Clubman, step 1 was not required. I only coded steps 2 and 3 to activate rear foglights left and right. Car has LED lighting package. Maybe newer cars don't need step 1, i don't know. I bought the light switch off eBay for 39 dollars shipped. So its cheap and easy.

I did the coding through Bimmercode app, not e-sys.

Do you have the ebay link for the light switch?

pw1114 08-25-2017 10:32 AM


Originally Posted by mkt3000 (Post 4325032)
Do you have the ebay link for the light switch?

Just do an eBay search for 'mini f56 light switch' and save that search so that you get email notifications until one pops up with a price you're willing to pay for.

You can try making a 'best offer' on this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-F54-F55...cAAOSwhIFZmtmI

y2karmagedon 08-26-2017 05:58 PM

Does anyone have the instructions on how to pull the panel and remove the existing switch to install the new one prior to coding in the fogs?

TVPostSound 08-26-2017 10:03 PM


Originally Posted by y2karmagedon (Post 4325391)
Does anyone have the instructions on how to pull the panel and remove the existing switch to install the new one prior to coding in the fogs?

Yes. Just did mine. Real easy.
Remove the left panel, the one the door closes against. One screw.

Pull fairly hard on the panel under the steering wheel away from the dash until it releases.
There are 6 retainers.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=51_9610
But be careful of the switch wire so you don't rip it out.
Remove the wiring plug.
Take the panel with switch to a smooth surface like a table.
The switch is retained from the back of the panel by tabs.

TVPostSound 08-26-2017 10:08 PM

You do not have to add 5AA to the VO, not needed, also won't be a red flag when the VO list is scanned against BMW's VO sheet on your car.

Modes 08-27-2017 12:31 PM


Originally Posted by pw1114 (Post 4324997)
For my F54 Clubman, step 1 was not required. I only coded steps 2 and 3 to activate rear foglights left and right. Car has LED lighting package. Maybe newer cars don't need step 1, i don't know. I bought the light switch off eBay for 39 dollars shipped. So its cheap and easy.

I did the coding through Bimmercode app, not e-sys.

Any chance you have a step by step on the coding you did through Bimmercode app?

TVPostSound 08-27-2017 04:12 PM


Originally Posted by Modes (Post 4325513)
Any chance you have a step by step on the coding you did through Bimmercode app?

+1 on that, the dealer is going to upgrade my software, I wanted to try Bimmercode, but don't see it in the options.

TVPostSound 08-27-2017 05:18 PM

OK, started to figure out Bimmercode.
But when it reads the existing coding, it shows things I don't have
enabled as enabled. Like starting without pressing brake, shows aktiv.
Others that are too boring to list.

Im not sure it properly reads my options.

pw1114 08-27-2017 06:17 PM


Originally Posted by TVPostSound (Post 4325560)
+1 on that, the dealer is going to upgrade my software, I wanted to try Bimmercode, but don't see it in the options.

Go to Headunit. Then Expert Mode. Then Steps 2 and 3.

TVPostSound 08-27-2017 08:01 PM


Originally Posted by pw1114 (Post 4325596)
Go to Headunit. Then Expert Mode. Then Steps 2 and 3.

Found it, not in head unit.

As I mentioned earlier, its showing coding that is incorrect when reading.
For instance tire temperature with TPMS shows inactive, when is is active. I had it coded by a guy with E-Sys.
Shows DRL in unknown.
Im afraid of what else it reads wrong, and recodes it wrong. I can't look at _every_ parameter.

pw1114 08-28-2017 12:16 AM


Originally Posted by TVPostSound (Post 4325619)
Found it, not in head unit.

As I mentioned earlier, its showing coding that is incorrect when reading.
For instance tire temperature with TPMS shows inactive, when is is active. I had it coded by a guy with E-Sys.
Shows DRL in unknown.
Im afraid of what else it reads wrong, and recodes it wrong. I can't look at _every_ parameter.

Sorry. You're right. It's BDC i think. I don't know why I said head unit.

TVPostSound 08-28-2017 08:22 AM


Originally Posted by pw1114 (Post 4325635)
Sorry. You're right. It's BDC i think. I don't know why I said head unit.

Right, but what do you think of it reading my existing coding incorrectly

pw1114 08-29-2017 06:07 PM


Originally Posted by TVPostSound (Post 4325733)
Right, but what do you think of it reading my existing coding incorrectly

Are you using the Vgate iCar 2 Wi-Fi OBD adapter?

TVPostSound 08-29-2017 06:57 PM


Originally Posted by pw1114 (Post 4326247)
Are you using the Vgate iCar 2 Wi-Fi OBD adapter?

Yup, only one that will work with Bimmercode.

Waiting for response from developer before I try to code.

TVPostSound 09-10-2017 04:09 PM


Originally Posted by spacecadet (Post 4025266)
As I just posted in the coding thread, you need to do the following - not just buying the switch, but also using e-sys to enable the feature in the body domain controller (BDC)





2) 3068, NSL_Verbaut = Verbaut




3)


3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_L_output = nsl_l
3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_L_Function = nebelschlusslicht
3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_R_output = nsl_l
3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_R_Function = nebelschlusslicht




These options enable the correct outputs on the BDC to activate the lights. You could choose to have only one light on if you wished



I believe line 3 is incorrect, should it not be this:


3064 Mapping_Nebelschlussl_R_output = nsl_r

David9962000 09-11-2017 08:13 PM

How do you install the euro switch? Do you pull on the panel?

TVPostSound 09-11-2017 08:15 PM

Pull the side panel first, one screw, then pull the under panel, 6 retainer clips.
Switch has tabs, one connector.

TVPostSound 09-15-2017 08:55 AM

Anyone else notice the latest Bimmercode update no longer sees the BDC.

All I get from the developer is the same response overtime I ask a question.
It will be fixed in the next revision. HA!!

EDIT

Due to the new mandatory recode by MINI, Stephan at Bimmercode needs to rewrite his software, as MINI made it harder to access.


EDIT

pw1114 09-15-2017 01:00 PM


Originally Posted by TVPostSound (Post 4330181)
Anyone else notice the latest Bimmercode update no longer sees the BDC.

All I get from the developer is the same response overtime I ask a question.
It will be fixed in the next revision. HA!!

EDIT

Due to the new mandatory recode by MINI, Stephan at Bimmercode needs to rewrite his software, as MINI made it harder to access.


EDIT

what is the new mandatory recode?

TVPostSound 09-15-2017 02:15 PM

Its an internal recall. Any MINI from 2013 to 2017 that goes into a dealer gets this:


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...d78ca3ec60.jpg

ECSTuning 09-18-2017 09:02 AM

Can you repost that a bit bigger, i cannot see all of it. Thanks for posting that up. :)

Minnie.the.Moocher 09-18-2017 09:11 AM

A cleaner version for older eyes : https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post4316695

TVPostSound 09-18-2017 09:33 AM


Originally Posted by ECSTuning (Post 4330776)
Can you repost that a bit bigger, i cannot see all of it. Thanks for posting that up. :)


You sound like my wife!!!

:eek2:


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:56 AM.


© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands