So I'm in the process of replacing the lighting with LEDs, but I ran into a couple of snags:

- How do you get to the front map lights? I managed to get the clear covers off, but can't figure out how to get to the bulb. I know it's probably something really simple and I'll smack myself in the head about, but right now I'm stumped.

- I must have ordered the wrong tail lights from superbright because they did not match up at all. The base was completely different. Guess I'll have to exchange them...

Also, I got lazy and didn't install the resistors...I get a nice little warning every time I start the car, but it is otherwise unobtrusive.

I also wish the side marker and interior lights were a bit brighter...

-The front map are easiest accessed from the back. You remove the first cover then remove the four T20 torx screws. This will release the main switch unit. If you have trouble with this, go to the Moving the Microhpone thread...if you haven't done that already. Disconnect the entire unit from it's wire harnesses. Remove the screws in the back and then you will see the twist locks that hold the bulbs. Take them out replace the bulbs and reverse the process 10-15 minutes tops.

-That sucks, they are really good about returns(trial and error for me :wink: ). Just fill out the form online and send them back.

- there is a multiple LED interior light that would take bit of modding but would work. Mine is bright enough for me.

Did you do the under door/puddle lights? I think those make the biggest difference.

This is the tail bulb I used:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...8-T.htm#photos
I think this will work too:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...115x-x45-T.htm
Here is the one to make the dome light brighter:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...base_specs.htm

They have new "Vehicle Bulb Finder" tool in the upper right corner of the Home page! It is accurate 100% from what I checked. I wish they had it 4 months ago!!

Thanks for the tip re: the map lights. I don't think I would have been adventurous enough to start unscrewing things without direction on my own.

I did do the puddle lights and I'm happiest with those. Took a bit of head scratching at first to figure out how to get to them, but once I figured it out, they easy to replace.

I did notice our car shows up in the bulb finder now (thank god) and I'm going to try the bulbs they recommend which seem like they'd be brighter. I'll order them and report back my findings. :thumbsup:

Really wish they sold some canbus bulbs so I wouldn't have to worry about resistors or coding... I bought some canbus bulbs for the front lights, above the fogs - no errors. Just a nice thing to have, albeit the bulbs were a little pricier.

Where did you find the canbus bulbs?

If you get the 45 towers and put them in please take a picture. I have my tails blacked out and I am thinking I may want to switch out from my 18's to be a bit brighter. I have some H3 cool whites on the way to put in my Blackmagics on the light bar in front. I think it's going to look really good.

Guy's, what are puddle lights? Geoffrey, you wrote me telling me the red puddle lights would look great with my light white w/ black roof and red interior, but I didn't know exactly what the puddle lights are.

The light in the bottom of the door that shines down to the ground so you can see where you are stepping when you get out of the car.

So if I were to look for puddle lights on superbright, what exactly would I look for for my CM? When I enter it on the bulb finder it doesn't give me the option for the puddle lights.

-Found the canbus bulbs on ebay. They are a lot more expensive, but they don't throw up any codes and don't require resistors.

-How are you getting rid of the codes currently?

-I will def be posting pictures once I get everything the way I like it.

Check the first post GeoffreyM put up. Superbrightleds has then listed as WLEDx5s. WLED-xHP5s might work too... I'm ordering them this time around to see the difference because they should be interchangeable between the WLEDx5s

Yup. It's the same bulb they spec for the side markers.

So my LEDs came in yesterday and I managed to get most of them installed. I re-did all the interior lights, the tail lights, side markers, reverse lights, front turn signals, license plate lights, and even the glove box light. Didn't get around to the fogs yet...not real easy to get to...the wheels get in the way..

Some observations so far:

-They are MUCH brighter than the LEDs I had before

-The new lights haven't given me any error codes yet, which is interesting...

-The tails and front turn signals flicker when the car starts up....don't know know what I can do to combat that

I've compiled a list of the bulbs I used below (copied from GeoffreyM). I got all of them from superbrightleds.com and used their vehicle bulb finder for the CM and GeoffreyM's original post to help pick the right bulbs.

INTERIOR:
4-WLED-xHP5 your color(I went with natural white) for the puddle lights under each door
3-WLED-xHP5 your color (natural white, again) for the two foot wells in the front and the light in the boot
1-WLED-xHP5 your color (natural white) for the dome light
4-WLED-xHP5 white (natural white)for the map lights front and rear
1-3610-x4: 4 LED Festoon Bulb your color (surprise, natural white) for the glove box

EXTERIOR:
2-WLED-xHP5 amber for side markers
2-WLED-xHP5 your color (natural white) for the license plate
2-WLED-xHP5 white (I actually used some other ones for these I got off eBay, but might replace them with these) for the driving lights above the fogs
2-H11-xHP9 for the fogs (I'm going with yellow - I like the look)
2-1157-x45-T Amber - for the front turn signals
6-1156-R45-T Red 1156 - brakes, tails and turns (GeoffreyM's post called for 1157, but mine were all 1156 bases)
2-1156-x45-T (choose your color- there's warm white and cool white 1156) for reverse lights

All in all, they are a little more expensive, but I'm much happier with them. :thumbsup:

I'll try and get some pictures up when I can.

:thumbsup:
Don't fight the flicker. It's the test that the computer uses to check the bulbs.

So I put the fogs in and I hate them... the ones I ordered are not yellow as I was led to believe and they are not even close to bright enough to be of any use. Looks like I'll stick to incandescent bulbs for those.

Still can't get to the front map lights either... :-/

I didn't like the fogs either. I ended up doing PIAA's. Are you still not getting any errors on the tails and blinkers? If not it must be that the 45's pull enough to satisfy the computer. Can you post a pic of the 45's?

PS. The h3's don't fit the Hella BlackMagics. Too long. I guess I'll be switching them to PIAA's too.

Still no errors on the 45s... the HP5s for the license plate lights are throwing errors back though.

I'll see if I can get pics posted soon.

Bulb finder says they are H8's

Forget it then you click on it and it says replace with H11's

I used a piece of rubber tubing to remove the map lights, your local hardware store will carry it... I pushed the tubing onto the light and pulled it out.... I didn't realize the lights were twist locked in from the top...

I did the fogs today, and they need resistors (at least mine did, H11-WHP9-DRL from superbtight), I didn't love the look either so probably going another route (xenon match or real yellow). For those of you wanting to go this route I strongly recommend getting Hoen bulbs they are PIAA quality at almost 1/2 the price, and far superior to silverstars, etc.

http://www.hoen-usa.com/fog.htm

Fogs are very tough to get out btw, you need to unplug them first which is a real PITA (remembered this from the R56). Didn't remove wheel, but that would be the easiest way. Once you do change them it gets much easier as you can reset the bulb placement so they don't have to be unplugged first.

I did most of the interior LEDs yesterday (still need to do the front map light and trunk), looks amazing.

Also thinking about tackling the driving lights, but not sure how the LED bulbs will look in them (unlit) as the bulb is very prominent, or which bulb to use.

Thanks to everyone keeping this thread updated great info.

Did the rest of the interior today, except for the front map lights (went to do them but couldn't fined the smaller torx bit to get the last panel off, another day). Also did the side markers (nice to get the egg yokes out) almost broke the lenses off before I realized you can get them from the engine bay. Finally replaced the fog lights with xenon match, match the xenons perfect, although now the LED driving lights look too white.

Next I want to tackle the license plate lights, anyone know the best way to get them out, also do they need resisters or not?

They come out about the same as the puddle lights. A flat head screw driver works best. They do indeed require a resistor. I used 3m heavy duty double stick tape to put my resistors on. Directly on top of the light box that holds the bulb.

Ugh,I'll have to order them now. Guess I'll wait till I feel like doing the whole rear. Also not sure what I'm doing with the front turn signals yet (LEDs, Didems, or Silver visions), LED's look better lit, didems/silver visions look better when they are not.


BTW does anyone know what actual bulb is used for the front turn signal, it doesn't come up anywhere, but I'm thinking from this thread its a 7507?

It's an 1157 base or equivalent - two contacts and staggered bayonet pins.

Just to clarify this.. If I go for the PIAA or the HOEN for the Fogs it would just be a direct replacement of the bulbs.. no need for any resistors or ballasts to avoid the computer error messages..? Thanks for the input..

light mods
 

GREAT INFO GUYS, thank you for all the useful information. i really enjoy reading and following you guys on your countryman mods. please continue posting all your tricks you discover doing the mods. ya'll are very helpfull. by the way do the error codes clear themselves or is something like disconnecting the battery needed? love the galleries too, your countrymans keep getting better and better looking!!:nod:

Yea they are both halogen bulbs that are the correct voltage so will cause no problems.