Drivetrain Oil catch can - yes or no? My head hurts...
Originally Posted by morknmini
What was the title of this thread? I wonder what MiniMelSF's conclusion is.
I am scheduled for installation of an Alta tomorrow, but may change my mind. I may yet get an OCC, but if I do, I will probably opt for one of the chrome ones offered on ebay and have my Audi mechanic hook it up for me.
The bottom line is, for what it will cost to have it installed (about $200 including the Alta can) I think I can live without it right now until I find out more.
Thanks to all who offered their 0.02. :smile:
I just changed my stock IC to an Alta. The inside of the stock ic was dry. The car has 24000 miles on it. Could it be that those who live in colder climates will see the gunk and those of us who enjoy the weather 12 months out of the year do not?
As the engine wears and more blowby gases are produced, a larger volume of oil mist filled gases will make it to the intake. With forced induction, such a thing is inevitable. That's why turbo owners relocate the crankcase intake to a separate crankcase filter. The PCV can only flow enough air to keep the crankcase vented at low throttle angles/high vacuum (it's a calibrated vacuum leak), and at high boost crankcase gases go backwards out the crankcase filter. If this filter is in your intake pipe then coating of the throttle body and intercooler will be a natural consequence.
Water is a normal combustion byproduct so steam is an expected component of crankcase blowby gases.
Water is a normal combustion byproduct so steam is an expected component of crankcase blowby gases.
Originally Posted by pyugala
I'm curious if it is necessary to clean the IC and other stuffs first before installing the CC (in order to monitor the build up oil film). What solvent do you use and how to do it properly?
Thanks
Thanks
I used Super Clean followed by brake cleaner..
I would clean it, and did mine regularly, regardless.
Have had an OCC on for just a few weeks so I'm waiting to see how well it works.
Obehave
What is Super clean is it like a degreaser? How do you dry it?
Thanks
What is Super clean is it like a degreaser? How do you dry it?
Thanks
Originally Posted by obehave
I used Super Clean followed by brake cleaner..
I would clean it, and did mine regularly, regardless.
Have had an OCC on for just a few weeks so I'm waiting to see how well it works.
I would clean it, and did mine regularly, regardless.
Have had an OCC on for just a few weeks so I'm waiting to see how well it works.
Since powerful detergents like Castrol Super Clean or dry cleaning solvents like brake cleaner are guaranteed to take off any special coatings in throttle bodies, etc, I bought a can of "coating safe" throttle body cleaner from Napa. I don't know if the IC has any coating but I wanted to be safe.
Of course once I had the IC off it was so clean inside that I didn't bother to use it...
Of course once I had the IC off it was so clean inside that I didn't bother to use it...
Originally Posted by pyugala
What is Super clean is it like a degreaser? How do you dry it?
Originally Posted by pyugala
Obehave
What is Super clean is it like a degreaser? How do you dry it?
Thanks
What is Super clean is it like a degreaser? How do you dry it?
Thanks
I dilute it 2:1.
As noted by BFG9000 it's a strong degreaser. I've used it since it was called Purple Stuff. Do not use it on paint.
But I've cleaned my OEM IC 3 times with it and no harm.
I chased it with brake cleaner since it evaporates faster.
Flush with water for a minute.
Stand it on end to drain.
What tiny bit of water that's left in it after 10 minutes or so won't hurt anything.
Honestly, dropping it in a bucket of Dawn and letting it soak would probably work just as well.
Another thing to consider when installing the catch can is the heat under the bonnet. My OCC is installed in the open space at the rear of the passenger's side of the engine compartment. The can is in fairly close proximity to the heat shield just above the header. This may be a potential problem area.
The plastic view tube on my car and several others that I know about has melted from the very high temperatures generated by the header and radiated into the engine compartment. Plastic is used because of its flexibility and ease of install/removal. A more temperature resistant substance such as some form of glass would be better. However, this could be problematic when inserting or removing the tube. Perhaps a fitting that doesn't require the entire tube receptacle to be turned could be used.
Anyone else with melted view tubes on their OCC? Any experience with glass view tubes? Thanks...
The plastic view tube on my car and several others that I know about has melted from the very high temperatures generated by the header and radiated into the engine compartment. Plastic is used because of its flexibility and ease of install/removal. A more temperature resistant substance such as some form of glass would be better. However, this could be problematic when inserting or removing the tube. Perhaps a fitting that doesn't require the entire tube receptacle to be turned could be used.
Anyone else with melted view tubes on their OCC? Any experience with glass view tubes? Thanks...
I have mine in the same location as Recoop as my car has the factory optional alarm system which resides in the spot where most people put the OCC. I had the same situation with the plastic sight tube melting. I removed it , capped off each hole with a brass pipe fitting and just planned on checking it periodically to empty as needed. This is where it got interesting. I have yet to find anything in the can but my intercooler is oil free and it used to be a real mess prior to the OCC install. What is happening in my car is that being it is in such a hot environment the captured oil is burning up and leaving a flakey residue. I have a self cleaning OCC
Randy
M7 Tuning
Randy
M7 Tuning
Originally Posted by BFG9000
As the engine wears and more blowby gases are produced, a larger volume of oil mist filled gases will make it to the intake. With forced induction, such a thing is inevitable. That's why turbo owners relocate the crankcase intake to a separate crankcase filter. The PCV can only flow enough air to keep the crankcase vented at low throttle angles/high vacuum (it's a calibrated vacuum leak), and at high boost crankcase gases go backwards out the crankcase filter. If this filter is in your intake pipe then coating of the throttle body and intercooler will be a natural consequence.
Water is a normal combustion byproduct so steam is an expected component of crankcase blowby gases.
Water is a normal combustion byproduct so steam is an expected component of crankcase blowby gases.
And with all due respect to those that would raise the issue of the small amount of oil fumes released into the air as a result of this: get real. We're talking about inconsequential amounts of material getting past the PCV filter relative to what's coming out of our tailpipes, and in any case it's not like those of us with supercharged / high performance engines are exactly in the running for "Environmentalist of the Year".
Originally Posted by maxmini
I have mine in the same location as Recoop as my car has the factory optional alarm system which resides in the spot where most people put the OCC. I had the same situation with the plastic sight tube melting. I removed it , capped off each hole with a brass pipe fitting and just planned on checking it periodically to empty as needed. This is where it got interesting. I have yet to find anything in the can but my intercooler is oil free and it used to be a real mess prior to the OCC install. What is happening in my car is that being it is in such a hot environment the captured oil is burning up and leaving a flakey residue. I have a self cleaning OCC
Randy
M7 Tuning
Randy
M7 Tuning
hose for OCC
Originally Posted by obehave
Mines located in a lower and cooler location.
Yes I replaced those rusty bolts

Yes I replaced those rusty bolts

A clean OCC and a clean IC
Maybe it's not such a mystery...
I would bet that if one were to remove the plumbing to the OCC (intake path), and shoot some brake cleaner in it, oily residue would come-out. Before it gets to the OCC, it needs to first travel down this route, and I'm guessing that the interior walls, and fitting connections have some oil-like adhesion hiding there. In time, especially in the cooler months, it will work its way into the OCC. Just a guess...
My digital camera died a couple weeks back, but I took these with a crappy webcam...
I put some stainless steel wool at the bottom, and an unraveled 2 stainless steel lint trap material up on top to provide plenty of surface area for the crud to condense on...


And, I extended the intake hose within the can downward just to make sure the vapor doesn't just jump straight to the outlet without going through the material first... I also did away with the sight "glass" which is essentially aquarium airline. I put a brass plug on top, and a brass valve at the bottom. With a small cup, and a twist of the valve, I can see what comes-out...
Maybe it's not such a mystery...I would bet that if one were to remove the plumbing to the OCC (intake path), and shoot some brake cleaner in it, oily residue would come-out. Before it gets to the OCC, it needs to first travel down this route, and I'm guessing that the interior walls, and fitting connections have some oil-like adhesion hiding there. In time, especially in the cooler months, it will work its way into the OCC. Just a guess...
My digital camera died a couple weeks back, but I took these with a crappy webcam...
I put some stainless steel wool at the bottom, and an unraveled 2 stainless steel lint trap material up on top to provide plenty of surface area for the crud to condense on...
And, I extended the intake hose within the can downward just to make sure the vapor doesn't just jump straight to the outlet without going through the material first... I also did away with the sight "glass" which is essentially aquarium airline. I put a brass plug on top, and a brass valve at the bottom. With a small cup, and a twist of the valve, I can see what comes-out...
Tony,
I've been scouting around for some temperature tolerant clear tubing, but haven't found any yet. Since I really don't want to stop by a scientific or laboratory supply house, I entertained the same idea about the brass valve that you are using. Now that I see it has been successful on your car, I'll do the same for my new Cusco OCC. It's smaller than the GReddy unit, and does have some very nice fittings, including a thumb-tightened bolt for release of the can from the mounting bracket.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale...il_Catch_Tanks
Cheers,
I've been scouting around for some temperature tolerant clear tubing, but haven't found any yet. Since I really don't want to stop by a scientific or laboratory supply house, I entertained the same idea about the brass valve that you are using. Now that I see it has been successful on your car, I'll do the same for my new Cusco OCC. It's smaller than the GReddy unit, and does have some very nice fittings, including a thumb-tightened bolt for release of the can from the mounting bracket.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/sale...il_Catch_Tanks
Cheers,
Ok, I'll admit it - I caved. I was there, and the Alta catch can in it's nice red color was there, and Randy Webb was there (he had just put on my Alta 15% pulley) and I caved in and had him do the OCC too. I just didn't want to futz with having to wonder what size tubing, where to put it, how to make a bracket to hold it, etc.
Below is why I decided to do it. I had him take the IC off and this is a shot of the out-take side of the IC....
Below is why I decided to do it. I had him take the IC off and this is a shot of the out-take side of the IC....
Originally Posted by inimmini
Looks like you used the OEM type hose to connect your OCC. Can you tell me the ID/OD and type of hose so I can get the same? I want to make sure it doesn't collapse under the vacuum, and the OEM type hose seems much sturdier than the reinforced vinyl hose I've seen on other set-ups. Thanks! :smile:
The hose is Gates 3225 10mm (3/8ths) fuel line hose.
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