OIl pressure around 55-60psi: All the chain drive and guides and tensioner were replaced 8k ago. I thinks its lifter or possible cam lobe. I have a warranty so I want it to really blow. This way I will build a proper motor

I can add to the timing chain issues, and it appears ALL newer engines with the low profile gears and roller chains are wearing prematurely primarily due to the close tolerances involved and the fact that these really need a good FULL synthetic, and not the cheaper syn blends the dealers are using. Any amount of wear and issues arise, where the overhead cams in the past had a higher profile tooth pattern on the gears and could tolerate some slop. Also, if you look closely at the tensioners, the spring is not that strong as they rely on oil pressure to maintain proper tension...and they wear quite quickly when syn blend is used. Even a small amount of wear/open tolerances allows oil to bleed past and this allows them to jump a tooth or so much easier. Now, when the timing set is replaced, there is still the added wear to the followers and other valve train components so indi may be correct in it being valvetrain issue for him at this point. Cam lobe is rare now days, but can still happen.

Aside from this, these engines should go several hundred thousand miles no problem.

I hear you, but relying on warranties is risky. If it's a lifter, you'll hear a single tick per engine revolution, versus a clatter of timing equipment, or worn lobes. Typically a single lobe doesn't wear out but all of them do, so, single tick: lifter, multiple clatter: lobes (assuming that your timing chain, tensioner and rails are indeed good).

Agreed. Unless the bucket or follower fail. Good knowledge Helix!:thumbsup:

Thanks for your posts. I thought the bad stuff stayed in gas form and went thru the separator. Do you know how much water is in the mix on average?

The average can sold to address these issues is only between 15-30% effective, so most everything still passes through them no matter what you see caught.

As far as composition of what is trapped, with one of the few that do catch most of the contaminants, Water is always in greater amount when temps fall below 45* F. Look at your exhaust on a cold morning start-up...lots of water vapor is expelled out the exhaust (extreme pressure and temps during the combustion process release it from the air charge). Next, unburnt fuel due to cold start enrichment and the fact that gasoline does not burn very efficiently as a whole. The soot and carbon particles fall from suspension first, and that is where you see engine oil discolor. Sulfuric acid forms during the process and it and water generally turn to steam and condense under the cam/valve covers and inside the engine block with most accumulating in the oil. Fuel condenses as well into the oil and is the most difficult to separate where water will settle to the bottom of the oil pan as it sits (it first emulsifies with the oil to make the creamy colored gunk).

So, there is no real way to separate and remove them effectively once they mix....but if evacuated (removed) as soon as they enter, then they for the most part are not an issue.

Here is a sample analyzed by Blackstone Labs of what the RX systems catch:

Attachment 146840
Attachment 146841
Attachment 146842
Attachment 146843

Now the aluminum content is way high due to the sulfuric acid working on the aluminum engine and the can itself as it sits in it.

Hope this helped.

Thanks for posting, this is good information. For comparative as more people track the performance of their OCC. A lot of Aluminum, Sitting in the Aluminum canister eating away at it I have to agree.I would like to compare with a Stainless canister.

Stainless I suspect wont show this as it resist's corrosion, but it hurts nothing as this is in the separator. It also is not visible corrosion as we have cut them apart after 10 plus years and you can't see the effects the acid has, but a lab test will show.

How come there is no sulfur in the lab report?

Hey Tuner Boost, have you got your hands on a r56 n14 engine to install the rx can with the separator?

I was thinking about trying this one out.


http://www.burgertuning.com/BMW_335_oil_catch_can.html

Very interesting. It looks good, but as we know, looks aren't everything.

Well I took the bait and ordered it. I like the baffle system it has.
Now I need to find some good hoses.

Very nice looking, but in the testing it came in at just under 30% effectiveness allowing 70% of the oil and other compounds to pass through it. Once someone gets one and wants to do the test, let me know. Very easy to do to see just how much gets past it. As far as appearance, it looks killer!:thumbsup:

I'm a little confused, you said its 30/70 but if anyone gets one and wants to test it let you know?

Test it against the RX system.....install the base lowest priced RX can inline after that can in the link, run 1000-2000 miles and drain both, measure and see how much the can in the link caught and how much got pulled past it and caught by the RX can, then do the test in reverse to be fair and that will show you how well or how poorly any can works.

Oh, I thought you had means of bench testing or something with the numbers you are throwing out... all good...
Yeah, I can see where your test could show which one catches more, as long as the driving is the same, weather conditions the same...etc..
I plan on running and exhaust evac, so this one really only needs to work at low rpms when the exhaust vac is low and intake vac is high...
RX looks and sounds like a nice can, I like how they did the challenge a year ago but a lot of the cans they tested against where older style, still can't beat the fact they want you to test it against your existing can using the series type test and switching them around........

A single lobe can wear down at anytime. It just takes a couple of small "pin holes" or nicks to start the wear through process in the hardening then it's a quick decent from there. As for diag through noise Its hard to say unless one has experience listening to these engines. My experience as a machinist was with BMW and Mercedes. Mini is new to me.
I did change my vent system in incorporate a second ball valve so I can control/cut off entirely vacuum to turbo inlet pipe when on the track.
All good fun in the learning.

Tuner Boost, thank you for one of the most informative threads I've ever read. I just emailed RX and asked if they make a kit for my 2010 MCS N14. If not, we need to come up with a "where to buy what" (parts list) to make one. I want to do this.

I've always suspected the factory design was poor and contributing to a portion of the oil burning, coking, etc. Your explanations make perfect sense. I have the JCW exhaust and my tips are black with soot. Like in the old days when you jetted a carb too rich.

I started looking at installing an OCC and came across this thread. Very interesting stuff.

Tuner Boost, one question I have is this;

What is the difference between the dual valve Rx Performance OCC sold on Apex-speed for $299 and the dual valve Rx Performance OCC sold on your website for Minis for $399?

Well, figured that one out. The Apex one is the OCC only, not the kit.

However, the kits on Jegs are $70-80 less than the ones on the Rx page. They just don't have kits for the Mini listed (of course, being more of a muscle car/V8 shop).

The Jegs kits come with a plastic clean side separator not the billet which is why they are cheaper.

So, I ordered my kit and it arrived a few days later, on a Wednesday.

Saturday morning I open it up and find a wealth of parts, most of which are not applicable to my 07 MCS. The clean side-separator does not fit the Mini. The OCC itself does not match that shown in their video. The mounting brackets also do not match. Looks like pretty much the only thing usable is the hoses and fittings. Outstanding.

I email Rx and three days later the response is that the problem would be forwarded to Tracy at Rx. Six days pass without it being addressed, so I send another email. Two more days and nothing. I also sent a PM to Tuner_Boost here with no response.

So now, here I am, having brought to their attention that the wrong kit was shipped 11 days ago and not getting any communication, let alone resolution. I'm reluctant to call because of the old "get it in writing" adage. (I also don't like to lose my temper over the phone when the inevitable placation of "we'll take care of it right away" is used. If it was going to be taken care of right away, take care of it right away without my needing to call you!)

Yikes, keep up posted....

sorry to hear , I know that sucks when you pull the trigger for the higher end and get this kind of customer service it really makes you think....

Keep us posted.

It's apparent you are of the younger generation thinking "everything" can be resolved via internet, FB, or the like means of communication. PLEASE pick up the phone and call them. You would be amazed of what can be accomplished and how quickly it can be accomplished by "talking" to someone. :thumbsup:

If only that was true, many of the newly working world have zero phone skills. Advantage to the written word is a paper trail, a must have !

If only that were true that I were even of the younger generation. How I wish.

No, this comes from real experience having people say one thing over the phone (or in person) and not actually doing anything. At which point it becomes an issue of "he-said/she-said" with neither side able to provide any proof via documentation.

Oh, and there is of course the very fact that they are operating over the internet in the first place.

The thing about the younger generation is, they are quickly out numbering us. And as much as I'd like to resist and speak to a person on a phone, they generally resist back and wish not to talk to a person, but through email. I am a car dealership service employee in the midwest, and I probably get 5-10 times the amount of emails as I do phone calls. And no that is not me exaggerating. Email is and has been the future of customer service. If I didn't answer an email within an hour or two I would probably get a stern talking to from the GM. If I didn't answer it in 6 days, I could be reprimanded should it become habitual. My point is, the days of "...pick of the phone and call them." Are no longer valid.


However, with that point being made. I would have called them long before now if I didn't get a response in a couple days. Because another fact is, some businesses either just don't understand this new generation, or they do not have the proper staff the handle the emails they do get. Perhaps they're too small, or too stretched. Either way the consumer gets the same result.

Sometimes, you have to do things the old fashion way. Grab that rotary phone and spin the dial :wink:

Please go to the site and call the support number. This is Tommy and I will get this straightened out. Sorry for the hassle and poor service, we have been in a transition and it has slowed things down in some areas.

RX, i was checking out your website and i didn`t see any catch can kit for an n14 engine or n18.
i`m saying this because i see another member of nam purchasing a catch can from you guys. Is there a kit for an n14?

I've read the entire thread. Lots of good info. Too bad the good stuff is expensive. It's a MINI so that's why.

The whole time I kept having the same thoughts as Step:

"I severely doubt any of the solids that leave the valve cover actually make it to the engine. That would be a monumental trip for anything other than a gas. I mean think about it..... through the intake, into the turbo past the intake baffle, through the intercooler, up the cold side pipe back down the other side, through the throttle body, up the intake manifold. It would be like the Oregon trail for oil."

How in the hell does oil travel through all of that and make it to the engine?

I like IndiManiac's setup but it's a shame that these cars have to be doctored that much because of a poor design from the factory.

We appreciate your interest here.

Thanks!

RX is correct. The CNC shop is waiting on a special collet to make the adapters for the N14 and then they will be on the way all!

Great, i hope they dont take too long since i have no occ on my r56 yet and i`m getting anxious.
Tuner Boost do you have another video that specify or explains more of the installation other than that overview video you posted it in other thread somewhere around here on nam?

Please post up a link to these kits when they are available. I am currently running a Saikou Michi OCC on my car 2009 JCW clubman but I am always looking to see what others are doing and pics of how well they perform. MY SM can extracted more oil and water from my system than the my previous OCC did in the prior 3 years it was installed. Results are more important than price to me!

Please post up a link to these kits when they are available. I am currently running a Saikou Michi OCC on my car 2009 JCW clubman but I am always looking to see what others are doing and pics of how well they perform. MY SM can extracted more oil and water from my system than the my previous OCC did in the prior 3 years it was installed. Results are more important than price to me!




Agreed on that..

These are near ready. Just ran the first batch of N14 adaptors at $20 each, so Tommy Liveoak is testing them to make sure no tweaks are needed, then will run full run of them for production.

Attachment 145732

Sub, the SM can is one of the better ones on the market..3 times as effective as most are, so your not doing bad. The real RX is unequaled, but I always give credit where it is due, and the SM is in the top 3-4 on the market in effectiveness.

Also, Member RX Performance Products is NOT affiliated with RX Performance Products any longer. They chose to align with a company copying the original RX I, the engineer that designed and patented and making them cheap in China (Plastic pieces, etc.). We made every effort to appeal to ethics and some honor, but the $ swayed them apparently. Just want all to know.

PM me direct for tech support, and were looking for a supporting vendor that wants to carry these so all can get them easily.

Thanks All!! And let your favorite NAM Supporting Vendor know you would like them to offer the true RX solution and have them contact me direct to set them up.

Also, for the hard core boosted members pushing the limits, we may release our RX Super Chiller system for low IAT temps in the future if there is enough demand. Here is a video teaser of it on a 600 plus RWHP supercharged Camaro:

Has anyone installed this on a r55 2010 S Clubman?
Any testimony to the ease of install?
Also the Larger ID/OD braided lines are desirable? Why 8 5/8 over 6 5/8?
Is everything included for total install?
Thks and sorry for all the questions :)

Tracy is right we aren't part of RX Performance Products, LLC any longer and we couldn't be happier about it. We do however have the rights to use the brand name and domain name as it pertains to the catch cans he sold the rights to. We are the only authorized master reseller of the RX brand. The new owners of the brand and it's products wanted nothing to do with the business RX Performance Products, LLC. No good business person would. The important thing is the products which now belong to Extreme Auto Products.

Anyway I'm sure Tracy will be kicked off of this forum shortly for starting trouble and outright selling products without being a paying sponsor.

He left with the adapters so until we have completed ours, which will be shortly, don't buy the RX system for the Mini. Sorry to put this mess out there but he left me no choice.

Tommy,
RXSW