I agree. Must be a vacuum leak in a connection. The symptoms point to just that.

Wrench Monkey, can you take pics of your routing? Also, make sure the drain valve is closed or that will also be a large vacuum leak.

Let us know.

Car runs great think I posted a thanks for the info and energy on this thread :beer

I have the routing set up relatively identical to how you have it set up in the youtube video you did on an N14 engine. Unfortunately my engine bay isn't as clean as in that video from the carburetor cleaner spray I was using to try to find vacuum leak... damn nozzle broke and leaked everywhere. I used propane too and couldn't find vacuum leak anywhere. The valve cover is brand new, doesn't even have a thousand miles on it, the drain valve was closed, all the hoses well connected and tight, I had to tow it in to the dealer today so we will see what they come up with. I exhausted myself tirelessly troubleshooting every little detail that I possibly could and though I replaced some of the vacuum lines, double, triple and quadruple checked all my work, verified cylinder compression, tried reverting everything back to "factory" condition (which failed but then made me not angry at the OCC as much which is kind of a win..). In the end this is my conclusion: During the initial process of removing the intake and dicking around with the two vacuum related devices that attach to the underside of the intake I must have damaged or rendered one inoperable OR due to some kind of technowizardry involving the 1's and 0's of the electronics chose to put the car in limp mode while I was disassembling things and testing the fit of various electronic connectors before reassembly and despite everything being reconnected properly refuses to come out of "limp" mode. But frankly I don't know, or my car wouldn't be broke and at the dealership. The dealership has generally always done right by me but I'll be damned if I go as anything but a last resort. Just getting the car there has already got me out of over 100 bucks... there's no telling how much they'll rack up before things are fine again... and that doesn't even touch on the exhaust leak issue I just discovered (although it does give me a particularly good excuse to pull the trigger on a new downpipe... double edged sword I guess).

I'm curious what the dealership will say about the OCC though.. lol. I did try to give them as much of a pass down as I could, they certainly didn't seem surprised when I mentioned it

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...9ce5bf7b2f.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...1880b2a4b4.jpg

Looks clean what is the thing off the intake, mushroom looking?

Cool link, thks...

Gonna get a walnut blast on mine soon.

I noted this while doing an inspection on my car.

The hoses on the PCV side are being put under such vacuum they are doing this. Could someone give me some insight here, common sense tells me this isnt right.

When the engine is off the lines go back to normal

edit: *Seems nothing undue I might have hoses that arent spec for vacuum. Sucks I have to redo those lines but such is life

Yup! It appears you habve the "clean" and "dirty" sides run together (can never do this as you need clean coming in one portion of the crankcase, and dirty exiting the opposite). So when your at idle, the intake manifold vacuum is pulling far to much suction and since no fresh side any more to allow in the filter make up air to flush and replace the foul oil laden vapors being evacuated, you are collapsing the hoses and also pulling oil off the wrist pins which will damage them over time. You never want more than 14-15" of vacuum present in the crankcase or oil starvation is one result, seal failures another. Get me more detailed pictures of how each hose is run. If you look at the hoses when in boost, you would see these bulge from pressure then.

Get better pics of each routing and I can guide yu on how to correct it and route it properly.

It seems the hoses I'm using are not for any vacuum. I need pcv line or hose that has braided reinforcement.

The line routing despite the photos is quite clean, and compared to a few other installs and the instructions is correct. I'll take further pics.

I'm going to buy the specific hoses.

Thks

Long story short here...

I purchased and (eventually) installed one of the Rx OCCs. While my experience is that he looks to have a really good design for the internals of the Rx, the install setup became suspect recently.

I'm getting ready to trade in my Mini so I removed the OCC. When I did so there was a ton of residue inside the fitting coming off the clean side separator into the cold-side turbo inlet.That's the only clue I really need to see that too much **** is still getting into the air inlet stream.

I like the visuals of that trick with the balloons, btw.

I do see the need for an OCC on these cars but if I were to consider putting it back on I'd go with DonnieDarko's setup. Yes, it looks like it allows air from the OCC back in to the top of the engine, but that's only during idle or when letting off the throttle. During acceleration it will be evacuating. Since I don't sit at idle enough to worry about that, I wouldn't worry about that.

My routing seems ok. There are other threads on the intraweb about hoses doing this, heat and oil residue for lines that aren't made for vacuum wil collapse under closed vacuum. Don't know how I screwed up the routing. Thks for the input guys

But you still seem to have both the clean and dirty run together, this will allow excessive vacuum at idle. You still should have lines designed for vapor emissions, or better trans cooler line, but until you separate the clean and dirty like it was stock, then you have this no fresh incoming air issue.

Your choice, but other I see pics of have done the same thing.

I crossed the line as you suggested and no longer have the vacuum issue like before. Did little road trials and car drove clean and nothing undue. This thread is good but light on simple explanation lol here's a cyber beer for all the assistance

Good deal!! That is one of my flaws (one of many) is I am wired technically form all the years working in the industry and sometimes have a hard time explaining in laymen's terms (easy to understand). I see it all simply in my mind, but getting it typed out so it is easy for others to understated is not always easy for me.

Cheers!!

What we need is a picture of the Mini engine bay with flow arrows of the exact setup you're talking about. Not necessarily with the RX can, but with what most people are using.

I'd also like to see the same with (flow diagrams) of Indimaniacs setup because the exhaust pipes tell the story on that one. Looks like it works great.

Hahaaaa seriously next time I need some insight in atmospheric physics I'll repost 😜😜

See how it goes hopefully haven't naffed up anything

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.nor...171110da9d.jpg


Here is my set up

I installed a few days ago this system so far I have no complaints the car feels different but in a good way i dont want to say that I feel I have more power/hp because I dont have a dyno to measure it but definitely feels as if the car is breathing better or as if the engine is functioning better.
Thanks to TUNER BOOST FOR ALL HIS HELP!!!

So when there's pressure in the crank and the pass side PCV port in closed due to boost,
it looks like the pressure can only go out the "drivers" side inlet (according to one) but NOW A FULLY OPERATING outlet facilitated by the draw from the turbo so you have a nice direct passage for OIL to enter the induction system and spew oil into the: intake intake pipe, then turbo, then the inter cooler (causing thermal inefficiency) , then over the temp MAP sensor (good to give them a coating), over the throttle body (so it too can be coated and not allow the flap to seat properly), then over the second MAP sensor(keep on coating) and into the engine, passing over the valves causing more coking exacerbating a known problem problem and lowering the octane of the fuel in a motor prone to pre-ignition and detonation???
Are you all MAD???
Please just look at it logically. You have a oil can only working part time. When you need it most, under boost , its NOT DOING ANYTHING.
Oh lordy please help these misguided folks and, BTW I'm an atheist

Indi,

Can you post another pic of your setup with flow diagrams?

Occ
 

Here a variation used last year. I did experiment using boost pressure to inject into the oil dipstick tube which is the only area one can expect a benefit of fresh air into the crank case where its needed; down low allowing it flow up towards the VC to be evacuated.I do not have a pic of that setup.
All my proof is in the pudding; look at the exhaust pipes.Motor has 105K miles, the last 25K being brutalized.
It has worked properly for 2 1/2 years now. I just inspected my intake valves this week as the engine is apart now for rebuilding. Quite clean but not a 100% as there will always be some OIL DOWN THE GUIDES hitting the valves and CC vapors that just do no evacuate fully.

Could someone do a simple arrow denoted flow map of a mini engine on the of pcv side and intake manifold side
tia

Although not a difficult concept to grasp, it's not quite that simple of an explanation or at least getting folks to understand it!!
No worries though; "to each their own"

Apparently, you're having a conversation with someone that I can't see lol.

......, just putting the word out there so some can discern and compare notes.
The myths and BS get to be overwhelming.

I just want to see 2 points of dirty side to clean side. Thks for the other drawing but that plumbing doesn't make sense to me. That car is clearly tuned. Mine is stock in essence w/ some bits added. It's a forum just trying to get some info you guys going physics on it lol