Is this something people (I) should look into AFTER getting things like a head, cam and tune? Or would this benefit the simple mods like intake, catback, and pulley? I plan to someday have a head, cam and Jan tune on the car. Just wondering at what point this would make a difference.

Here is what I run. The whole system cost me $550. I run a 50/50 mix and played around a lot with controls to find what works best for me. I can remove the system from the car in about two minutes which came in handy when the wife and I took a road trip and needed the space.

Longboard

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...eader_0111.jpg

550 dollars. Sold who makes yours?

liking the plug and play after initial installion, the whole loosing the trunk thing was killing the idea for me...
how many hours for the install?

If you try real hard you can have a permanent install that doesn't take up any trunk space.:wink:

From my research, W/M injection adds value at any point in time starting w/ a stock set-up. The more mods one has, perhaps the more "value" it has for a highly mod'ed car can take greater advantage of higher octane as well as need greater cooling.

Really liked where you place your pump...I followed your lead and that is where I have my pump installed:thumbsup:

You can do what big howie did
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...d.php?t=141375

But what can you fit in the boot of a mini? Not much:lol: , so I didn't mind loosing the space.
Also you have to think about the volume of your tank - I would go for at least a gallon (3.785L) tank, I think the coolingmist boot mount kit is 1.5 gallons, that way you are not filling it up all the time.
Try and find the space for a gallon tank anywhere other than the boot!:grin:

The washer tank is 3/4 of a gallon so it's not really that bad. There are other opportunities under the hood as well for a tank.
Hey, in the cabrio you need all the room you can get.:lol:

so glad i have a hardtop.
Though i do give you mucho points for getting that all to work.

Isn't it better to put it before intercooler?

I am going to mount the aquamist system but I can't decide what is better. Before or after IC?
Most of them said before it?

If you run a high percentage of Meth the internals of your IC may not be happy.

Randy
M7 Tuning

You should allow the IC to do its job and then help it out. So after the IC is a better choice.

Ya and also you stand a higher chance of puddling in the IC ?

I have been talking with SNOW PERFORMANCE.
From our discussions they say to spray in the air intake hose before the TB ... And to use there system that reads the MAF ...I am getting some conflicting info :confused:
Talk of SC type, nozle pattern, spool up ect ...

Would really like to do this once an right.

I have some "connections" and can get SNOW at a good price.

Anyone using a SNOW system in a MIMI ?
What model ? Or other info ?

I can tell you from experience with water/meth the MINI is a different beast. It doesn't always react the way others expect. The turbo guys don't get it because of the instant boost. They also not get the higher than expected IAT's (read small IC)and heat soak issues of the MINI.
I'm not saying Snow isn't right, but there hasn't been a lot of definitive data that I've seen. Listen to who you may and try at your own risk.

1+
Thumper460 (Mike) has the snow performance variable system and got some pretty good gains.
Send Mike a PM he will help you out as he knows what he is doing:thumbsup:

One thing to keep in mind is the water/meth is somewhat ECU specific. That is to say, each car and mods will act differently. Here's a few different scenarios;

1) Your car runs fine and you put W/M on it. You will probably see modest gains.

2) Your car has a less than optimal tune(could be stock, stock with mods, or improperly tuned). You will probably see bigger gains as the W/M acts as a band aid fixing the issues. It will richen it up and/or stop some pinging from advanced timing.

So on a properly tuned car, your gains will probably be less than a car that has minor ECU issues.

It's the same as the Suby,EVO, NSX guys are seeing. Put a W/M system on and the gains are small. Start dialing in a lot of timing and watch the numbers jump. But then you need other safeties on the car in case you clog a jet or run out.
I'm not trying to put down the gains that people have achieved, but you have to look at all of the pieces put together to see what added up to the gains. It's not as easy as bolting one on and getting the same number as the other guy.

"think thats sums up mini tuning all over " :thumbsup: :popcorn:

You know that part of the gain has to do with vaporization. If you can run a better pump then the surflow you will see higher nozzle psi and better gains. The weak link in most of these systems is the pump. Please guys before I get jumped on about this statement if you do not trust what I say try installing a pressure gauge in your system and watch it. Unfortunatley the better pumps run an average of $350 - 700. Not for the timid.

OK, assuming you are right. How vaporized? Minimum droplet size or complete change of state? What's an acceptable psi? Do you have any data showing pump psi/orifice size/vaporization rates to show where the vaporization sweet spot is?
It's just that the statement is sort of general, if your going to make the statement I'm sure the folks in this thread would like to be educated with the data. I would.

More info is always better.

:lol: ok but see so many have already got nice systems. I do not want to be the fly in the cake.


Most Nozzles (depending on who’s they are) work efficiently from about 40 psi so you could regulate your pressures 40 psi. Referenced to boost it would track manifold pressure 1:1 So the first thing you need is a good regulator to make all these systems work better.
You should formulate the nozzle by your pumps rating. So if you know what your pump is rated at you deduct 30 psi per 60cc nozzle size. Surflow pumps that snow and others sell are 150 + psi max but are pressure limited to 60 to 70 psi (controlled by internal bypass) That's why they can offer them so inexpensively. So when you start doing the math you will see that the size nozzle your are probably running is killing your total psi.


All of this is one reason among others that I just went the 4 nozzle direct port design and put out the $$ for a better quality pump. It is a night and day difference from any single nozzle system I have ever had. If you lived close I would help you build one.:nod:

No one I know of offers a direct port kit because of the cost.

I can’t tell you the specific’s you asked about: “Do you have any data showing pump psi/orifice size/vaporization rates to show where the vaporization sweet spot is?”

On my system I run 60cc nozzles per port at 55psi regulated to 120psi max adjustable. And my mix is manual 75/25 w/m

I am aware of the RBR pump and using their calculator. What is interesting is the statement about the internal bypass. The manufacturer claims that the pump is rated to 150psi, and it is run up against a 130psi deadhead switch. So, is the manufacturer lying? I don't know the answer, but since my system is hard plumbed and buried in the nose, I won't be finding out quickly. Only a test will tell.
I think th RBR is a fine pump, but it's capacity falls off fast with increased flows. If the pump curve doesn't fall off as fast for the Shuflo because of it's huge capacity, the two might be closer in performance that it might seem.
As I said, it won't happen tomorrow, but I'll find out.

I have a surflow 150 on a single system with a gauge and also the R&R. I also have three other new surflows for single systems I build for guys like yours. It is not that they are lying they are just doing the advertising game. max @ ... LOL When you get a chance throw a gauge in line and see what I am talking about. I have more stuff on my Mini LOL Ask Sid. LOL Now I just need a long downhill to go fast. LOL
PM sent

LOL