You will love any Manic tune you get, but you will also get a strong addiction and start wanting to build towards your next stage. It's just kind of the nature of the beast.

As far as the whole BOV thing goes, if you keep the stock airbox and do the alta spring upgrade, you shouldn't get the loud "whoosh" like an aftermarket BOV. The sound GREATLY increases with an aftermarket pod filter, while there isn't really power to be made my going with a pod. So if you stick with the stock airbox (maybe an aftermarket panel filter) it will help keep the sound down.

 

You will be set and well with 1+ since yours is a JCW. Had a ride in a 1 and it was quite alot quicker and rev happy. Enjoy!

 

Yes I have the kn panel filter, forget to write that down on my mod list

 

How do the Manic Stage 2 and the JB + compare? Has anyone used either or can they be used together?

 

I'm guessing I have moved at least 75 customers from a JB+ to Manic tuning, including myself. Very noticeable difference and additional safety measures. Do not use them in tandem mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Any answers? I'd like to know as well as what power figures were had by the tune.

 

I have 26K with a stage 3 and 13K with a stage 4 on a stock clutch

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Stage 2 with IC and DP I have seen the same car go from 175whp to 235whp

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

Is it okay to have the Manic stage 2 tune without upgrading the intercooler? Would it harm the engine in any ways?

 

It's ideal to do and IC even on stage 1. You can get away with out an IC during winter, but I suggest getting one before summer

Fri, 10 Mar 2017 07:23:55 GMT

 

What's the worse thing that might happen without IC? I'm not mechanically knowledgeable and am very new to engine mods, so please forgive me of asking stupid questions.

 

The turbo creates a lot of heat and combine higher boost with kill power. The Mini has smart ECU and if the intake air temps get too high, the car will pull power, performance and may go into limp mode. A good intercooler will temp your higher intake temps down (IAT's) , so you can take advantage of the tune and put a smile on face

numposts

 

With only 2nd cat deleted and nothing else, would it be okay to run manic stage 2 tune on the n18 engine? Or would you recommend just going with stage 1?

 

I would do stage 1

<NWConcrete_nw_endpoint_resolver: 0x168712f0>

 

MarioKart,


I'm slowly building up to get the stage two. I will be selling my JB+ soon.
I have the exhaust on order, sprintbooster, +1 plugs and KnN drop in. Now I want to narrow down to DP and IC but the only question I have is, will you be able to get rid of any CEL if I go cat-less or aftermarket on the DP?
also can I run my sprintbooster in tandem with Manic 2 or throttle response is controlled in the stage 2 tune?

 

SIZMTR, Send me an email MarioPalza@gmail.com I will credit you $200 for your JB+ My downpipe won't trigger a CEL You can use the SB with Manic, no problem I like the Wagner Intercoolers Thanks Mario mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

No issues here. Been running it on Stage II for a month now. Luv it.

 

No it's not safe. Do yourself a favor and follow the recipe or don't do it at all. It's going to cost around $5,000 to do Stage II correctly.

 

$5k is on the high end. For stage 2 you need:

Tune and SPS switch ($800)

Intercooler ($600 for the Helix v2)
DP ( $600 for a high flow Akrapovic or $300 for a way motor motor work catless)
Spark plugs ($75)

Optional methanol kit ($1200 for the Aquamist HFS4)
Optional turbo upgrade ($2000 for a OEM JCW and incidentals)

Total $1775 to $5275

And install all the stuff yourself, it fairly straight forward.

 

$1,700 Keep dreaming. The specs require a 2.5 exhaust. Now if you want to slap in a DP and say you have a 2.5 exhaust that's your call. I changed the entire exhaust turbo back to 2.5, (Akrapovic DP [High flow + it's ceramic coated] + Scorpion Flex pipe (The flex pipe is the most restrictive part with the second cat and res out)+ VIP Mid Pipe and Borla S type pipes out. All T304SS tig welded 2.5 turbo back. The exhaust alone cost $1,700.

Also installed a Forge Recirculation valve
H&R lowering springs
Forge Boost tube - you forgot about that and it's required
23mm forged sway Bar (Great mod you'll feel right away)
Strut bar - Another great mod you'll feel right away
HP coils - People change the plugs but they forget about the coils.
Powerflex bushings
(Plugs - DO NOT BUY the double prong plugs from Way). You will have hesitation issues under full throttle.

Next up are:
New turbo (45mm)
New manifold (ported)
New brakes.

So I guess it all depends on your goals. If you can accomplish them within your budget then good for you. I followed the recipe with all the best parts and decided to do some other things. $5K is what it cost.

 

Mind giving out ur dyno results & exhaust sound clips/vids?

 

Planning to Dyno when I go to Stage III this summer and will post some exhaust clips then. Currently, my car sounds just like Kyle's exhaust in this clip:

 

Curious to those with the Stage 2 with an exhaust and catless dp, what decibel levels are you hitting?

Planning to order my tune, sps, and dp from Mario tomorrow or Friday but am wondering about the db levels. Here in OR we have a restriction to 91db. Just curious.



~Jon

 

You should be good, I have several customers near you with that same set up. If for some reason you find too loud, you could always add a $80 Vibrant oval resonator 1141. This will give you a much lower deeper tone

 

Right after I posted this I thought "I should've just text Mario" haha. Thanks buddy!