I'm heading to Vegas for the entire week before AMVIV and will be towing my classic out there (while my wife takes a plane with the toddler). I'll have tons of room in a big van to haul parts/engines/subframes or even small parts if anyone is looking to buy any used parts. I have a bunch of stuff like subframes, engines (both used and newly rebuilt) disc brakes. Some of the stuff I'm more reluctant to part with than others, but if there's something you want or need send me an email and I'll let you know what I've got and how much I'd like for it. I'm not a business , just an obsessive individual with a bunch of stuff crowding his garage that I r-e-a-l-l-y should sell or do something with.

1 example: I've got a freshly rebuilt A+ 1275 +.040 with a 256 cam and a refreshed rod change A+ gearbox (new center oil pickup, layshaft and idler gear bearings) for $3500 and it comes with distributer, rebuilt HIF carb and alloy manifold and a new water pump and it's ready to drop in (I ran the engine in, adjusted timing and tuned the carb for that engine). If you've got a rod change tranny currently and you bring your mini with you, I may be convinced to install it for free while I'm there! If you have one, I'd consider your rebuildable core 1275 as a possible trade-in and take some $ off the price.

--Spank

hey spank do u have a HIF44 carb for sale?need one for my 81 998cc

HIF44 (1.75" aka HIF6) is waaay overcarbing a road 998. Maybe for a race unit that's running like 12:1 compression with a high-flow head and a big cam. You'll lose port velocity which equates to torque. a 1.5" (HIF38 aka HIF4) is plenty.

Either way, I don't really have any hif carbs available. I prefer to set them up and include them in the engines I build so I know a motor is not going to get burned up because of incorrect fuel mixture.

--Spank

Do you ever see replacement air filters for a single-carbed 1275? I'd like to get rid of the fugly plastic air cleaner in favor of a nice, clean K&N, but I never know which one to use. I'd LIKE to put a dual carb on my car, but I have no idea if it would be a help or a hindrance - my 1275 runs pretty well now, very smooth, but doesn't have much pep.

Here's the nasty-*** air cleaner that's on there now (stock on a 1992 1275):

K&N make replacement filters for that housing, I'm just not sure what their part number is. For the older stock filter box, it E-2601 but I don't know about that particular box. Might be same or E-3211 (as per minimania website). Look at the K&N website and click vehicle specifications and it'll give you an idea. The 2601 fits up to 93 Rover 1275 single carb.

A lot of people just put on a cone filter on which is 56-9330. Beware, though, that the fueling needs could change, moreso with a cone filter than with a replacement element.

Dual carbs are not really going to give you a noticeable benefit over a properly set up single 1.75. Honestly they're more for looks and coolness factor. They take twice as long or more to set up, and if not new and a matched set, it's 2 rebuild kits to start off with. Then it's twice as many needles to buy and it also takes longer to get the proper fuel mixture. Using an exhaust gas analyzer only tells you overall rich/lean and doesn't narrow it down to which carb is running rich or lean... could be bathing one pair of cylinders while roasting the other pair.

There's the potential for slightly more torque using duals, but not worth the difficulties of set up imho for a regular road mini.
--Spank

Cool... sounds like I should just stick with the single carb then - thanks. How do you detewrmine the needle that should be used? I've heard that I might need to swap it, but I'm not sure how one does that. This might be a job for a proper garage - I have a shop here in Ohio that works on British cars and who says they'll do work on the classic Minis, and seeing as how I don't have anything beyind basic hand tools, I'm thiking that I kmay just have them do the install and needle setup. I'll need to get the parts though.