2005 MCS last week the clutch went to the floor and wouldn't come up or allow me to get into a gear. Pumped a few times and got moving again and drove home clutchless which was fine except for having to weave through a four way stop with people thinking I was some idiot maniac! Reading here seemed like slave cylinder was likely culprit so replaced but still won't shift into gear. Have bled the thing repeatedly with a power bleeder and a friend pumping the clutch but no go. Thenslave definitely moves the clutch arm but it seems like just not far enough. I can turn off engine put in gear and start with clutch and brake depressed but the clutch is still slightly engaged. If I take my foot off the brake it starts moving. So, would this be a symptom of a bad master cylinder or is something wrong inside the clutch itself?

 

Did you depress the slave cylinder when you bled it ? The thing can be a royal PITA to bleed properly, and making sure it is full compressed and the bleed line is point up is critical to it working for you.

If you can fully confident that the system is bled properly, then you might be looking at a throw-out bearing or release fork.

Also, make sure the connection on top of the transmission, that connects the flex clutch line to the hard line going to the slave, is in good condition. Mine had became weak or something, and was causing bleeding issues.

 

I did have the cylinder compressed. I have bled it to death. The clutch still feels spongy. I went ahead and ordered the master just to be on the safe side. I figured if I end up replacing the entire clutch I'd replace it anyway so I'll replace it first and then see.

 

Have you arrived at a solution tjsadler? I too am fighting this infernal clutch thing.
Having just replaced my clutch and driven some 150-200 miles, I started noticing my shifter getting a bit hard to pull out of gear. Turns out I had a bit of a leak in the slave. I replaced the slave only to be fighting this thing for the past week now.

No way to drive the car, it won't go in gear when I depress the clutch. On the stands the wheels start to move when I depress and try to engage first gear, when I apply brakes the engine stalls. Not a safe or good way to test this baby.

I tried vacuum to pull the oil through the lines, pressure to push both from the bottom and or the top. Not working. Fluid even stopped coming through, I Finally have removed the master cylinder. How do you prime this darn thing? Fluid goes back and forth that's it. I'm frustrated!!! any help out there?

 

According to this thread, you need a special bleeding tool for the slave cylinder: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ect-steps.html.

 

With the slave attached, look at the clutch lever. Is it pointed slightly toward the engine, or slightly toward the slave (transmission side). if it's slightly toward the engine, I bet you have a blown T.O. bearing. If that's the case, stop driving or even testing the car immediately: bits of bearing can machine the inside of the bellhousing case, making your expensive problem really expensive.

 

I found out that there are about $6 worth of bearings that have gone bad that basically require a full clutch job. The slave cylinder pushes an arm that is attached to a shaft that then attaches inside the transmission to the fork. The bearings for that shaft are bad and it is basically pinching and binding instead of smoothly rotating. Bottom line is I'm replacing the clutch and all those parts.

 

Actually, I think it's more likely that the T.O. Bearing is not moving smoothly on what's called the guide tube, and not the actuator fork. Be sure to replace the guide tube when doing the job: it's about $26.

 

If you're just replacing the clutch with a stock one, Carolina Clutch has them for only $144.13: http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx.

If you did not do so previously, get the flywheel checked and turned if needed. If you have to buy a new one, you might as well get an aftermarket one. I recommend the Act Streelite Flywheel. It is made of steel instead of aluminum and weighs ~13.8 lbs. In my learnings, you don't want to go lower than ~50% of the weight of the stock one (which is 27 lbs.). You can get on here for about $370: http://www.importimageracing.com/act...-cooper-s.html.

If you opt for an aftermarket clutch, go Euro Sport Design: http://www.eurosportdesign.com/p-124...utch-kits.aspx. I recommend the Stage I Spec clutch kit for $310 It should accomodate a stock to Stage I MINI setup (15% pulley, exhaust, CAI, tune).

 

I have just replaced my clutch, All drove fine for approx 150-200 miles, now the silly thing won't let me disengauge. Seems I'll have to go to a shop, this is inbearable. I've replaced the master today, and with the new slave I feel it should work but to no avail. I have carefully done all that has been mentioned. but still no success. Bummer!

 

Guys, if you search on my name you will see I went round and round with this exact same issue. The fix is to replace the 2 plastic bearings the shift rod runs through and while your at it, replace the guide tube and throw-out bearing & I promise you it will be fixed!

 

Dual Mass flywheels should NOT be refaced (turned), but they can be re-used with a new clutch assembly provided there is no discolored spots (heat checking), grooves, or cracks. Just clean, deglaze by hand with 320 grit sand paper, and clean again with brake cleaner or alcohol before re-assembly. Sachs is a major manufacturer of clutch products, and their data sheet says "No" to re-facing a dual mass flywheel. See: http://www.understeer.com/pdf/dualmass.pdf. It is NOT just another stepped flywheel.

Aftermarket flywheels like the ACT can be an excellent choice, but when replacing a dual-mass flywheel, be careful "mixing & matching". Here is why:

• On a street vehicle, there needs to be some damping between the engine and transmission to smooth clutch engagement and reduce shock to the drivetrain. On cars with a dual-mass flywheel, this is accomplished with springs inside the plates of the flywheel, and the clutch disk is un-sprung.
• But if you choose a solid aftermarket flywheel like the ACT, you will need a clutch disk that has a "sprung hub" to complement the solid flywheel.
• They are available, but if you just buy a "clutch kit for a Mini", it will have a solid hub for use with the stock dual-mass (sprung) flywheel. If you are buying the flywheel & clutch set together, no problem. But if not, ask.

Valeo is mentioned in this thread, and they offer both a three-piece clutch set for the Mini, and a four-piece set that includes their replacement solid flywheel. The three-piece set has an un-sprung hub clutch for use with the stock flywheel, and the four-piece set has a sprung-hub clutch for use with their solid flywheel.

FYI:
Jeff at TSW told me that they were running the Valeo 4-piece set (clutch, pressure plate, solid flywheel & bearing) on their car, and they really liked it! It is slightly lighter than stock, but heavier than the ACT or other solid flywheels, and combo provided a very predictable engagement and "feel". When Way Motorworks bought TSW, it looks like he began offering the Valeo products too. (Valeo os one of Europe's largest suppliers of both OEM and aftermarket clutch products.)

 

Trickle X, thanks for the reminder. I believe I read your previous posts on that solution as well.

...

Mini Crazy, thanks for the advice on turning the flywheel, as well as the need for springs in the hub and/or a sprung hub. Looks like I was just lucky in ordering the clutch and flywheel I selected last year. I went back and verified through their description, so I should be good whenever I get around to replacing the stock clutch. I will do a manual inspection when I get home later to reverify.

For selecting a SPEC clutch: this page seems to show the differences between the various stages available: http://www.jscspeed.com/catalog/SPEC...r_S-190-1.html.

 

I think I have the same issue. I have a 2004 R50 and when I start the car there is a squeal/whine from the area near the slave cylinder and will not really engage the clutch. It seems to want to try and engage all the way at the floor. I have 108,000 miles on it and it's run like a champ since i bought it 8 years ago. Does it sound like the throwout bearing is shot? The slave and master cylinders don't look like there's been any leaking. Do I need to replace the 2 other bearings that Trickle mentioned? Should I replace the clutch flywheel and pressure plate as well? This happened to me right as I got to work today. Definitely a Monday. Thanks for any help.

 

At 108k the clutch is the likely cause. You will need a new kit which should have the TO bearing too. (valeo is often mentioned). Get the guide tube, but you may not need it as mine looked new but you can just sell it for the next guy to have in case.

 

Replaced my clutch this weekend along with the guide tube. Bearings came out once the trans was pulled away from the block. The throwout bearing was all over the place, but there weren't any issues otherwise. One thing that I'd like to point out is that the transmission is near impossible to remove completely. I ended up just pulling it far enough away from the block to get my hands and tools in there to swap everything out and get it torqued down and then just slid it back together. It runs great now, with the exception that my ABS and tire pressure light is on. I did change the brake pads while I was in there and need to get a new brake wear sensor and apparently figure out what's up with the wheel speed sensors. Other than that it went well. Thanks for the help.

 

So, I have an 06 MCS. Haven't really noticed b/c it's been like the frog in boil water. However, it seems as though the clutch is a bit stiffer that it SHOULD be. Doesn't pop out of gear, get stuck in gear or slip. Just a stiff clutch pedal.

My question...What's the problem? Clutch master cylinder or clutch itself?