Does the R56 use the same filters as the the R53 MCS? I have two left over.

 

OK Birdman,
You dropped a zinger, come on and back it up. Inquiring minds want to know.

 

No.

 

This was copied from Mobileone.com.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 fully synthetic motor oil is designed for today's longer service intervals. It provides guaranteed performance and protection for 15,000 miles or one year. Mobil 1 Extended Performance products with the Advanced SuperSyn System contain extra performance additives to help deliver outstanding engine protection.

 

Definitely different. Sorry...

 

What is this in response to?

If I used Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic (not realizing there was an "Extended Performance" version) I assume I need to change my oil more frequently.


Mobil 1 5W-30
"If you want total engine protection, excellent fuel economy and a product recommended for applications under warranty, you want Mobil 1®. The world's leading synthetic motor oil, it features a proprietary
SuperSyn anti-wear technology that provides performance beyond conventional motor oils. Technology that allows Mobil 1 to exceed the toughest standards of Japanese, European and U.S. car builders -- and to provide exceptional protection against engine wear, under normal or even the most extreme conditions."

 

The extended version has been out for over a year now.... That's what I use on my wife's 325i and my dad's MDX, and my ex-Z3. Good stuff. My dad's MDX still drives like new at 92000 miles.

I am saying I would feel OK if I changed my engine oil every 15000miles with Mobil 1 extended performance stuff but since my driving style calls for more attention and since I can afford it I will probably change mine every 7500miles after breakin oil change at 1200 miles.

 

I just hit 3k and I'm going to change it. I agree w/ YOs Dad! They are our engines, and we have to take care of them. Just think how hot that turbo gets...

 

There is so much confusion over Mobil 1, particularly since they went to a Group III base from the Group IV it use to be. You have Castro to thank for that. The "Extended" Mobil 1 is suppose to be what Mobil 1 use to be.

The Castrol 5W-30 that is rebranded by BMW is a European formulation. It is NOT the same as the Castrol 5W-30 that is on the store shelves in the United States. The same applies to Mobil 1 5W-30; a version sold in Europe carries BMW approval, while the version sold in the United States does not.

As a general rule US oils run toward the thin end of the viscosity range while European oils will run toward the thicker end. You could actually have a 5W-30 oil that is thicker than a 5W-40 oil because there is some overlap in the viscocity rating from one level to another.

The easiest thing is to use the BMW oil. If you want to use another oil, make sure it has BMW’s LL-01 or LL-04 approval on the bottle (small print, usually on the back). Mobil 1 0W-40 is the most common (suppose to be made in Europe), but there are others. If it doesn't have the LL-01/LL-04 rating, it should at least have ACEA A3 (not ACEA A1) rating.

 

aus, that's good info. I'd still use Castrol myself; mainly because the 07 MCS dipstick brace states "MINI recommends Castrol". :P

 

Castrol 5-quart jug sucks!!!! It doesn't pour smoothly like Mobil 1 5-qrt jug.

 

Help ! I'm confused about these numbers
Bought Castrol oil yesterday 'cause that's what it says in engine compartment . Bottle shows : LBL 00013-01-D , ACEA A1,A5,B1,B5
Did I buy the wrong oil ?
Another post says LL-01/LL-04 , ACEA A3

 

ACEA 5 is a higher rating than ACEA A3 ( blend). ACEA A4 (Synthetic) ACEA 5 (Extended Synthetic), so your oil has the best rating.

 

Thanks !

 

I save my extended version for romantic moments.
Oh yeah...the oil change. Did my first at 1800 miles DIY easy as pie and will be doing at 5k intervals

 

What does this mean:
ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5-04
That is what it says on the Mobil 1 bottle. Is that A1 or A5?

Picked up some MINI Full Synthetic Motor Oil at the dealer. It says ACEA A3/B3

 

Robin, that is probably an old bottle of oil that you got from the dealer, the new rating ACEA A5/B5 is the latest. I think it changed in 2004. If you want to get more info on ACEA (eureopean automotive manufactures association), GOOGLE "ACEA A5" and you will get a wealth of information.

 

Just perfomed an oil change on my mini cooper at 700 miles. I wanted to change the oil and filter now to remove any of the grit and metal left over from manufacturing and my hard initial break-in. Those inital 700 miles have been filled with lots of short bursts of hard acceleration (to seat the cylinder rings), spirited driving, and varied rpms (to wear all parts of the engine and drive train appropriately) 60% highway, 20% city, and 30% mountain passes.

I was pleased to find the oil to be very clear and clean, just the beginnings of amber discoloration. The filter was dirty and had been doing its job. Here is a photo of the filter as compared to a new one:



I randomly opened a pleat and photographed a metal chunk that was caught by the filter. There were many other pieces of metal like this. (the photo is over exposed to show you the detail; however, the color of the filter is more represented in the first photo).



Refilled the car with 4.3 qts of the recommended Castrol Fully Synthetic 5w-30.

So, my take is that i am happy to have flushed out any grit from the engine with the oil change (which was my main objective); however, the oil was very clean and and ready to server many many thousands of miles more.

 

Nice photos, the open weave filters that BMW uses really shows up the good job that it does, in your case a significant amount of material on the surface. I intend to change my oil/filter next weekend after 1400miles. I also have a magnetic drainplug on hand to change out. I will be using Castrol 5W- 30 synthetic.

 

Perhaps it means that the current rating is A1 and that it is A5 by 2004 standards.

 

I am interested in your magnetic drain plug. The oil plug that the mini has right now makes a huge mess. The moment you start to loosen the drain plug, the oil start to dribble out and with each turn it comes out at a faster and faster rate, with hot oil splattering down over your tools and hand. With the synthetic oil, rubber gloves, and steel tools, everything gets real slippery quickly, so you have trouble making the 10-12 turns necessary to get the plug out. Once the plug is out the oil really pours out of the engine.

The filter was not a mess at all. THe key is to take the filter cap off slowly to allow air to get into the cap, when it does, oil will drain out of the filter cap into the engine oil pan (you can hear it drain). No mess at all.

 

A magnetic oil plug will not make any difference to your oil drainage problems, you will still have a mess with either one.

 

Robin, I will not argue with you on that statement, it is really mindboggleing to interpret the specifications and what they really mean..

 

Ah ha. Now I get it. Ignore the manufacturer's recommendations all around. Don't follow the break-in procedure (never mind they designed and tested the engine for years) and then change the oil way sooner than ought to be necessary because you didn't follow the break-in procedure to begin with.

 

Notice the word "Perhaps"? I'm trying to figure out what "ACEA A1/B1, A5/B5-04" means. If you know, please explain.

BTW, a Google search on "ACEA A5" brought up lots of information on specific products, but very little enlightenment on what the designations mean.