HELP!...Turbo Oil Feed line is leaking!
#277
Yea, its just a little burn off.
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#278
Yeah I had smoke as well when I was letting it idle flushing the coolant. Congrats on getting through it! I enjoyed doing this myself. Still no leaks so I must have sealed everything up ok. While bleeding the coolant though I noticed quite a bit drip down onto my garage floor. Quite more than I expected actually but after I closed the bleeder it hasn't leaked anymore.
#281
Did you torque the banjo bolts to the necessary spec and use new copper crush washers on both sides of the fitting? This is the first I have heard of a detroit tuned oil line becoming loose and leaking after install, especially at the connection to the engine.
#282
As was already asked; did you install 2 crush washers per banjo bolt, and did you also tighten the AN fittings enough?
Did you buy just the line, or the Super Kit? Many people have bought just the line thinking that their leak is going to be fixed, but it is actually the oil filter housing gasket that has failed, which leaks from the same area of the engine.
#283
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Spokane, Wa. it's not near Seattle
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i have not, i bought the line and the return line. yes, i did put the crush washers on and torqued it. i started commuting to work so my car is parked in the garage so i am going to take it apart again and double check everything. i may not have tightened the an fittings enough. not saying there is anything wrong with the line itself.
#284
i have not, i bought the line and the return line. yes, i did put the crush washers on and torqued it. i started commuting to work so my car is parked in the garage so i am going to take it apart again and double check everything. i may not have tightened the an fittings enough. not saying there is anything wrong with the line itself.
If you didn't get the super kit that includes the oil filter housing gasket I'd venture to guess that that is your leak and not the line, like I said earlier; many people mistake the filter housing gasket leak for the TOL.
Either way please keep us informed on what you find.
#285
Well i just bought my 2010 cooper s a week ago this coming tuesday she has a leak at the area of the engine banjoo fitting for the turbo feed and oil filter housing area i just cleaned it with brake clean and keeping an eye on it but im thinking in august taking a few days off from work and tackling this and getting the Detroit big kit for oil feed and return the other stuff for the down tube and the housing gaskets and getting the car rdy for winter with coolant and such
#286
Well i just bought my 2010 cooper s a week ago this coming tuesday she has a leak at the area of the engine banjoo fitting for the turbo feed and oil filter housing area i just cleaned it with brake clean and keeping an eye on it but im thinking in august taking a few days off from work and tackling this and getting the Detroit big kit for oil feed and return the other stuff for the down tube and the housing gaskets and getting the car rdy for winter with coolant and such
Do you have another car to drive for a couple days? I was able to get the project done in the evenings and not have to take time off from work. Also, if you do still intend on doing the repair yourself I highly recommend:
-DT super kit (comes with the oil filter housing gaskets and everything you need)
-10 MM ratcheting open wrench
-varying extensions to ratchet (including a super long one that would seem way unnecessary)
-right angle ratchet connector
#287
One thing I noticed w the down pipe off is that the wastgate valve sorta just lays pretty loose in the turbine. Is this normal w no vacuum on it? Going to check that it properly closes w 15lbs of vacuum before closing back up.
Thanks for any insight.
.
#288
The diverter door in the turbo gets loose and sloppy over time. I've read that this is not rebuildable. Others can comment on how you can confirm if they are good or not.
For me, the worst part of this job was removing the heat shields. Those 3 bolts that hold the top and bottom half together are a challenge. I've never taken the time to put the car in service mode, which I've heard helps.
Mike
For me, the worst part of this job was removing the heat shields. Those 3 bolts that hold the top and bottom half together are a challenge. I've never taken the time to put the car in service mode, which I've heard helps.
Mike
#289
The diverter door in the turbo gets loose and sloppy over time. I've read that this is not rebuildable. Others can comment on how you can confirm if they are good or not.
For me, the worst part of this job was removing the heat shields. Those 3 bolts that hold the top and bottom half together are a challenge. I've never taken the time to put the car in service mode, which I've heard helps.
Mike
For me, the worst part of this job was removing the heat shields. Those 3 bolts that hold the top and bottom half together are a challenge. I've never taken the time to put the car in service mode, which I've heard helps.
Mike
#290
Move the rad out and the core supports a little. I did it without moving those, it took some time and it was tight getting the DP off for the first time. I could not reach that one back bolt at first near the turbo brace on the engine block.
Watch not to cut your hands upon removal of the heat shields, wear gloves, they are sharp at the edges. Mine got beat up.
Watch not to cut your hands upon removal of the heat shields, wear gloves, they are sharp at the edges. Mine got beat up.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#291
#292
yep, knock out an oil change and coolant flush while you are at it, Also great to remove any coolant residue if you do that oil filter housing gaskets also, so you dont mix the two.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#293
For service mode, you unbolt the bumper and wheel arches, and loosen the subframe bolts that support the bumper. The bumper/radiator support will move forward 2-3 inches.
Most of the access is better from underneath the car. I think that about all that I did was remove the upper heat shield and the downpipe flange bolts from the top.
While you are in there, it is probably worth replacing the seals on the heat exchanger and oil filter housing, those have a history of leaking as well.
Mike
Most of the access is better from underneath the car. I think that about all that I did was remove the upper heat shield and the downpipe flange bolts from the top.
While you are in there, it is probably worth replacing the seals on the heat exchanger and oil filter housing, those have a history of leaking as well.
Mike
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