07 MCS engine failure
#51
06-27-2011, 03:34 PM
My wife just had this problem on her 07 Cooper S one week ago.
The engine died when she just got off a highway and was waiting for a red light (very lucky otherwise it would be much more dangerous for her to control a powerless car on a busy interstate). She tried a couple of times but the car wouldn't start, so she called the road service and had the car towed 70 miles to the dealer in Baltimore, MD. We were very upset at that moment since our mini was 4 months or 1000 miles out of the factory warranty.
The next morning the dealer called my wife and told her the engine failed due to the vacuum pump, and quoted about $5K to fix the engine. However the dealer said they will talk to miniusa to see what miniusa could help.
Few hours later in the afternoon we heard from the dealer that miniusa would cover all the cost (including the $200 towing expense) and put a new engine in (instead of fixing the old one) based on “good will”. My wife picked up the car last Saturday and the dealer told her the new engine is covered under a 2 year/unlimited warranty.
I couldn't say we are not happy about the outcome - our 4.5-years-old out-of-warranty mini now had a brand new engine at zero cost to us. But I would prefer to have a reliable car from day 1. Our mini also had the tension/time chain issue back to 2009. We are planning to sell the mini next year.
What I learnt from this - it is better off putting the money in extended warranty than extended maintenance package.
The engine died when she just got off a highway and was waiting for a red light (very lucky otherwise it would be much more dangerous for her to control a powerless car on a busy interstate). She tried a couple of times but the car wouldn't start, so she called the road service and had the car towed 70 miles to the dealer in Baltimore, MD. We were very upset at that moment since our mini was 4 months or 1000 miles out of the factory warranty.
The next morning the dealer called my wife and told her the engine failed due to the vacuum pump, and quoted about $5K to fix the engine. However the dealer said they will talk to miniusa to see what miniusa could help.
Few hours later in the afternoon we heard from the dealer that miniusa would cover all the cost (including the $200 towing expense) and put a new engine in (instead of fixing the old one) based on “good will”. My wife picked up the car last Saturday and the dealer told her the new engine is covered under a 2 year/unlimited warranty.
I couldn't say we are not happy about the outcome - our 4.5-years-old out-of-warranty mini now had a brand new engine at zero cost to us. But I would prefer to have a reliable car from day 1. Our mini also had the tension/time chain issue back to 2009. We are planning to sell the mini next year.
What I learnt from this - it is better off putting the money in extended warranty than extended maintenance package.
In the end, your wife came out with no harm, and you weren't charged a penny for new engine. As you know, you basically got a brand new engine free of charge when MINIUSA had every right to deny one. I would say that's a pretty good deal. Oh, did I mention they covered everything for the first 4 years/50K miles...
You can't expect them to be as reliable as Civics. I knew that before buying mine but then the upside is I'm sure you (or wife)'ve enjoyed the car a lot more than, let say if you had gotten a Civic.
Seeing that this is your first post here on the forum, my advice to you is that, look for known problems of the car you own and trying doing maintenance before instead of rushing to the forums AFTER you have problems.
I bought mine used with 10K miles on it and yes, I've had a series of problems (power steering pump, leaking coolant reservoirs, engine mount leaks etc) even with fastidious maintenance but they were limited to the items that I can't really maintain.
#52
06-27-2011, 04:03 PM
#53
06-27-2011, 06:08 PM
Start a new thread when you want to change subject. Go to the main forum (In this case, stock issues...then find and click the "new thread" button to start your own well organized topic.
But, to answer your question, it is negative camber and set like that at the factory. It isn't squatting because it is broken....it is designed like that.
But, to answer your question, it is negative camber and set like that at the factory. It isn't squatting because it is broken....it is designed like that.
Last edited by HRM; 06-28-2011 at 02:54 AM.
#54
06-28-2011, 01:22 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Florence, Oregon
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My wife just had this problem on her 07 Cooper S one week ago.
The engine died when she just got off a highway and was waiting for a red light (very lucky otherwise it would be much more dangerous for her to control a powerless car on a busy interstate). She tried a couple of times but the car wouldn't start, so she called the road service and had the car towed 70 miles to the dealer in Baltimore, MD. We were very upset at that moment since our mini was 4 months or 1000 miles out of the factory warranty.
The next morning the dealer called my wife and told her the engine failed due to the vacuum pump, and quoted about $5K to fix the engine. However the dealer said they will talk to miniusa to see what miniusa could help.
Few hours later in the afternoon we heard from the dealer that miniusa would cover all the cost (including the $200 towing expense) and put a new engine in (instead of fixing the old one) based on “good will”. My wife picked up the car last Saturday and the dealer told her the new engine is covered under a 2 year/unlimited warranty.
I couldn't say we are not happy about the outcome - our 4.5-years-old out-of-warranty mini now had a brand new engine at zero cost to us. But I would prefer to have a reliable car from day 1. Our mini also had the tension/time chain issue back to 2009. We are planning to sell the mini next year.
What I learnt from this - it is better off putting the money in extended warranty than extended maintenance package.
The engine died when she just got off a highway and was waiting for a red light (very lucky otherwise it would be much more dangerous for her to control a powerless car on a busy interstate). She tried a couple of times but the car wouldn't start, so she called the road service and had the car towed 70 miles to the dealer in Baltimore, MD. We were very upset at that moment since our mini was 4 months or 1000 miles out of the factory warranty.
The next morning the dealer called my wife and told her the engine failed due to the vacuum pump, and quoted about $5K to fix the engine. However the dealer said they will talk to miniusa to see what miniusa could help.
Few hours later in the afternoon we heard from the dealer that miniusa would cover all the cost (including the $200 towing expense) and put a new engine in (instead of fixing the old one) based on “good will”. My wife picked up the car last Saturday and the dealer told her the new engine is covered under a 2 year/unlimited warranty.
I couldn't say we are not happy about the outcome - our 4.5-years-old out-of-warranty mini now had a brand new engine at zero cost to us. But I would prefer to have a reliable car from day 1. Our mini also had the tension/time chain issue back to 2009. We are planning to sell the mini next year.
What I learnt from this - it is better off putting the money in extended warranty than extended maintenance package.
Their take on this problem is that it's critical to maintain the sump oil level exactly between the marks. If it gets too low, the lubrication of the vacuum pump bearings is the first to go dry, the bearings drag, and the plastic camshaft will eventually snap at the variable valve gizmo, dropping it and the timing chain hardware into the sump. The engine is subsequently destroyed.
Plastic camshafts may be cheaper, but obviously don't have the rotational/twisting torque strength of steel.
Good news that MINI is picking up the tab for this design flaw. Hoping I'm not next in line ...
#55
06-29-2011, 09:17 AM
Since I own 2 '07 MCS, I've been watching this issue with much interest. According to the BMW press release on the R56 motor, the camshafts are made of "composite" material, vice metal. The vacuum pump is attached to the left end of the intake camshaft, the variable intake valve gizmo at the right end. I had one of my MCS in to the Portland, OR dealer yesterday to replace the hi pressure fuel pump, and discussed this post with the techs.
Their take on this problem is that it's critical to maintain the sump oil level exactly between the marks. If it gets too low, the lubrication of the vacuum pump bearings is the first to go dry, the bearings drag, and the plastic camshaft will eventually snap at the variable valve gizmo, dropping it and the timing chain hardware into the sump. The engine is subsequently destroyed.
Plastic camshafts may be cheaper, but obviously don't have the rotational/twisting torque strength of steel.
Good news that MINI is picking up the tab for this design flaw. Hoping I'm not next in line ...
Their take on this problem is that it's critical to maintain the sump oil level exactly between the marks. If it gets too low, the lubrication of the vacuum pump bearings is the first to go dry, the bearings drag, and the plastic camshaft will eventually snap at the variable valve gizmo, dropping it and the timing chain hardware into the sump. The engine is subsequently destroyed.
Plastic camshafts may be cheaper, but obviously don't have the rotational/twisting torque strength of steel.
Good news that MINI is picking up the tab for this design flaw. Hoping I'm not next in line ...
An explanation that makes sense. sense...can't
#56
06-30-2011, 07:04 PM
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Florence, Oregon
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just spent some quality time with the service reps at the Portland, OR MINI dealer, while picking up the spouse's '07 MCS and it's new HPFP. Starts and runs great!
They are seeing an increasing number of sheared intake camshafts with the resultant destroyed engine block. In every case, the oil level was way below the dipstick. We agreed the problem may be what the sales staff told new owners about the oil level and the "Conditions-Based Maintenance" alerting system. I was told (twice) to not add oil until the engine "called" for it. The service reps disagree, saying the "Low Oil" symbol will appear only when the sump level is down to only 1.5 quarts remaining, meaning it's 3.5 qts low! At that level, oil starvation of the vacuum pump bearings can occur. You will get a "Service" advisory when the optical sensor determines the oil has reached the end of it's service life.
Jarid and Joel asked me to pass the word - "Always, always, always check the oil level monthly, top up to mid-range on the dipstick as needed. Change the oil and filter once a year. Do not wait for the car to ask for oil service!".
The reps also agreed the camshaft itself is a poor design. It should have a engineered over-torque shear feature at the vacuum pump connection, instead of failing at the VANOS unit, which drops the timing chain hardware into the sump, with subsequent engine destruction.
By the way, Bentley has just announced they will be selling service manuals for the '07-11 MINIs, starting in September. $124.
They are seeing an increasing number of sheared intake camshafts with the resultant destroyed engine block. In every case, the oil level was way below the dipstick. We agreed the problem may be what the sales staff told new owners about the oil level and the "Conditions-Based Maintenance" alerting system. I was told (twice) to not add oil until the engine "called" for it. The service reps disagree, saying the "Low Oil" symbol will appear only when the sump level is down to only 1.5 quarts remaining, meaning it's 3.5 qts low! At that level, oil starvation of the vacuum pump bearings can occur. You will get a "Service" advisory when the optical sensor determines the oil has reached the end of it's service life.
Jarid and Joel asked me to pass the word - "Always, always, always check the oil level monthly, top up to mid-range on the dipstick as needed. Change the oil and filter once a year. Do not wait for the car to ask for oil service!".
The reps also agreed the camshaft itself is a poor design. It should have a engineered over-torque shear feature at the vacuum pump connection, instead of failing at the VANOS unit, which drops the timing chain hardware into the sump, with subsequent engine destruction.
By the way, Bentley has just announced they will be selling service manuals for the '07-11 MINIs, starting in September. $124.
#57
07-01-2011, 09:10 AM
since i own 2 '07 mcs, i've been watching this issue with much interest. According to the bmw press release on the r56 motor, the camshafts are made of "composite" material, vice metal. The vacuum pump is attached to the left end of the intake camshaft, the variable intake valve gizmo at the right end. I had one of my mcs in to the portland, or dealer yesterday to replace the hi pressure fuel pump, and discussed this post with the techs.
Their take on this problem is that it's critical to maintain the sump oil level exactly between the marks. If it gets too low, the lubrication of the vacuum pump bearings is the first to go dry, the bearings drag, and the plastic camshaft will eventually snap at the variable valve gizmo, dropping it and the timing chain hardware into the sump. The engine is subsequently destroyed.
Plastic camshafts may be cheaper, but obviously don't have the rotational/twisting torque strength of steel.
Good news that mini is picking up the tab for this design flaw. Hoping i'm not next in line ...
Their take on this problem is that it's critical to maintain the sump oil level exactly between the marks. If it gets too low, the lubrication of the vacuum pump bearings is the first to go dry, the bearings drag, and the plastic camshaft will eventually snap at the variable valve gizmo, dropping it and the timing chain hardware into the sump. The engine is subsequently destroyed.
Plastic camshafts may be cheaper, but obviously don't have the rotational/twisting torque strength of steel.
Good news that mini is picking up the tab for this design flaw. Hoping i'm not next in line ...
just spent some quality time with the service reps at the portland, or mini dealer, while picking up the spouse's '07 mcs and it's new hpfp. Starts and runs great!
They are seeing an increasing number of sheared intake camshafts with the resultant destroyed engine block. In every case, the oil level was way below the dipstick. We agreed the problem may be what the sales staff told new owners about the oil level and the "conditions-based maintenance" alerting system. I was told (twice) to not add oil until the engine "called" for it. The service reps disagree, saying the "low oil" symbol will appear only when the sump level is down to only 1.5 quarts remaining, meaning it's 3.5 qts low! At that level, oil starvation of the vacuum pump bearings can occur. You will get a "service" advisory when the optical sensor determines the oil has reached the end of it's service life.
Jarid and joel asked me to pass the word - "always, always, always check the oil level monthly, top up to mid-range on the dipstick as needed. Change the oil and filter once a year. do not wait for the car to ask for oil service!".
the reps also agreed the camshaft itself is a poor design. It should have a engineered over-torque shear feature at the vacuum pump connection, instead of failing at the vanos unit, which drops the timing chain hardware into the sump, with subsequent engine destruction.
By the way, bentley has just announced they will be selling service manuals for the '07-11 minis, starting in september. $124.
They are seeing an increasing number of sheared intake camshafts with the resultant destroyed engine block. In every case, the oil level was way below the dipstick. We agreed the problem may be what the sales staff told new owners about the oil level and the "conditions-based maintenance" alerting system. I was told (twice) to not add oil until the engine "called" for it. The service reps disagree, saying the "low oil" symbol will appear only when the sump level is down to only 1.5 quarts remaining, meaning it's 3.5 qts low! At that level, oil starvation of the vacuum pump bearings can occur. You will get a "service" advisory when the optical sensor determines the oil has reached the end of it's service life.
Jarid and joel asked me to pass the word - "always, always, always check the oil level monthly, top up to mid-range on the dipstick as needed. Change the oil and filter once a year. do not wait for the car to ask for oil service!".
the reps also agreed the camshaft itself is a poor design. It should have a engineered over-torque shear feature at the vacuum pump connection, instead of failing at the vanos unit, which drops the timing chain hardware into the sump, with subsequent engine destruction.
By the way, bentley has just announced they will be selling service manuals for the '07-11 minis, starting in september. $124.
The high pressure fuel pump is attached to the inlet camshaft, and in the case of the N14 engine, is the only camshaft with a vanos unit.
The N18 engine however has vanos control on the exhaust and inlet camshafts, and the vacuum pump is still attached to the exhaust camshaft on the N18 engine.
None of the camshafts either in the N14 or N18 engines are of poor design nor do they contain and plastic, they are composite steel billet, with hollow sections for lightness which reduces stress on the valvetrain components, allowing for smoother, faster and quieter operation!
As for the oil fed vacuum pump, if you allow your engine to run low of oil, and wait for the oil light to come on, and you've suffered a vacuum pump failure which does lead to engine damage, then surely you yourself are at fault, for lack of routinely checking your engines oil level.
#58
08-01-2011, 05:29 PM
Another 07 MCS Grenades
Well, my wife's 07 just blew with 54k miles on it. Very dissapointing... Someone posted that we should not expect it to last like a Honda. LOL Why not? The mini engine is not some wild performance monster. It is not some exotic super car engine. It is a volume production level product. Oh yeah, much like the Honda. My first Civic went to 280K before I sold it. My daily driver is an Accord with 180K. I have a Ford F350 dually truck that pulls my race trailer and it sees severe duty, running like a top with 150k. I absolutely run the snot out of my ZO6. When I drive my Spec Miata race car it is never under 4700 rpms for 40 minutes at a time. It takes a CONSTANT pounding and it is essentially a stock Miata engine. The Mini saw grocery getting duty. Modern car engines should last over 200k period end of story. I realise that the Mini drivers love their cars but engines blowing up somewhere between 30-60k miles, really?
I have owned many vehicles and many brands over the years but this circumstance takes the cake. WOW... I almost feel better
I have owned many vehicles and many brands over the years but this circumstance takes the cake. WOW... I almost feel better
#59
08-01-2011, 05:49 PM
Update on my 2007 MCS "Engine Failure"
My vacuum pump went (and the timing belt and subsequent engine damage) at 36K - repaired under warranty. They did not rebuild the entire engine - just replaced a few "bent valves" and head gasket.
At 49,300, I considered selling, but got a non-MINI extended warranty ($2,200 instead of $3,300), so went ahead and had car serviced (front breaks and oil change, new spark plugs).
Since then I have had to add FOUR QUARTS OF OIL - I am now at 52,300 miles - so using (internal combustion as there appear to be no leaks or oil on ground) one quart per 700-800 miles!!!
I have been checking and documenting "compulsively" (including posting video to YouTube).
I am going to contact MINI tomorrow - my position being that:
"My car is still under warranty (unlimited warranty on labor - have not checked parts warranty yet) from the repair done at 36,000 miles (head, cam, etc.) ".
I honestly think this ball should be in MINI's court (engine should not fall apart 16,000 miles/1 year after a repair). Obviously, as the total cost of the repair could be in the $5-9K range - I might meet with some resistance here too.
My back-up strategy would be to trade in my MCS (for a non-turbo MINI) - trying to negotiate top dollar in consideration of the engine troubles (or keeping my trap shut and laying the problem on them).
I do anticipate MINI trying to stonewall.
I have changed the oil every 7,500 miles, kept it topped up (as even slightly lower levels seem to lead to problems), and drive "sensibly".
Has anyone else on this thread had a similar history with advice/recommendations?
At 49,300, I considered selling, but got a non-MINI extended warranty ($2,200 instead of $3,300), so went ahead and had car serviced (front breaks and oil change, new spark plugs).
Since then I have had to add FOUR QUARTS OF OIL - I am now at 52,300 miles - so using (internal combustion as there appear to be no leaks or oil on ground) one quart per 700-800 miles!!!
I have been checking and documenting "compulsively" (including posting video to YouTube).
I am going to contact MINI tomorrow - my position being that:
"My car is still under warranty (unlimited warranty on labor - have not checked parts warranty yet) from the repair done at 36,000 miles (head, cam, etc.) ".
I honestly think this ball should be in MINI's court (engine should not fall apart 16,000 miles/1 year after a repair). Obviously, as the total cost of the repair could be in the $5-9K range - I might meet with some resistance here too.
My back-up strategy would be to trade in my MCS (for a non-turbo MINI) - trying to negotiate top dollar in consideration of the engine troubles (or keeping my trap shut and laying the problem on them).
I do anticipate MINI trying to stonewall.
I have changed the oil every 7,500 miles, kept it topped up (as even slightly lower levels seem to lead to problems), and drive "sensibly".
Has anyone else on this thread had a similar history with advice/recommendations?
Last edited by irishpunk; 08-08-2011 at 10:47 AM.
#60
08-01-2011, 07:10 PM
#64
08-11-2011, 05:04 PM
Well, I just heard from Mini USA and they are not going to help replace the engine on my wife's 07 Mini. It is has 54k miles on it. They said because I was the second owner they would off no help. I can say that is the last POS Mini I will own. Oh yeah, the BMW I have always been tempted to buy... No longer. The Mini is the biggest pile of ***** I have ever driven.
All I can say to the rest of you is that you better sell the car now or buy and extended warranty. I was considering buying a brand new engine for about 5k and put it in myself but with all the trouble I have had with this car I think it will sit beside the race shop next to my trailer as a good reminder to do my research on reliability before buying.
All I can say to the rest of you is that you better sell the car now or buy and extended warranty. I was considering buying a brand new engine for about 5k and put it in myself but with all the trouble I have had with this car I think it will sit beside the race shop next to my trailer as a good reminder to do my research on reliability before buying.
#65
08-12-2011, 02:47 AM
Well, I just heard from Mini USA and they are not going to help replace the engine on my wife's 07 Mini. It is has 54k miles on it. They said because I was the second owner they would off no help. I can say that is the last POS Mini I will own. Oh yeah, the BMW I have always been tempted to buy... No longer. The Mini is the biggest pile of ***** I have ever driven.
All I can say to the rest of you is that you better sell the car now or buy and extended warranty. I was considering buying a brand new engine for about 5k and put it in myself but with all the trouble I have had with this car I think it will sit beside the race shop next to my trailer as a good reminder to do my research on reliability before buying.
All I can say to the rest of you is that you better sell the car now or buy and extended warranty. I was considering buying a brand new engine for about 5k and put it in myself but with all the trouble I have had with this car I think it will sit beside the race shop next to my trailer as a good reminder to do my research on reliability before buying.
Parts are easily and readily available, surely that would be the best remedy!
#66
08-12-2011, 03:41 AM
Because the engine design would not be changed. IMO the engine design is flawed. I can't say what percentage of engines fail but it is an abnormally high number. So, if I repair the car it would be a ticking time bomb. Oh yeah, this Mini has been in the shop for numerous high pressure fuel pumps, over heating and timing belt issues. Not sure that I really want a family member driving such an unreliable car.
I could sell the car once fixed but I am not sure it is worth the effort for me. I have a ton of projects and the return on the money wouldn't be high enough to peak my interest. I may part the car out and see what I can get. Still not sure what I am going to do.
I could sell the car once fixed but I am not sure it is worth the effort for me. I have a ton of projects and the return on the money wouldn't be high enough to peak my interest. I may part the car out and see what I can get. Still not sure what I am going to do.
#67
08-12-2011, 04:02 AM
I can certainly understand your frustration, however there really is nothing wrong with the design of the engine itself, yes the early (like yours) versions did suffer from failings of the high pressure fuel pump, and yes there has been the issue of the timing chain, but what you say regarding the engines percentage failing as being quite high, you have to remember, that for the amount of engine units produced in comparison to the engines that actually fail, then it really is a negligible amount, also these engines, are not just fit into BMW MINI's, they are fitted into Peugeots and Citroens too.
Good luck with whatever you do.
Good luck with whatever you do.
#68
09-22-2011, 04:39 PM
2007 S with 58,000 miles- and my engine blew, just as described in this thread by oldMGguy and WPskier. Yes, my oil was low- I was following dealer's instructions, waiting for the computer prompt. Bad move on my part. It took nearly 4 months of haggling with my local dealer, MINIUSA and various insurance folks... but I did get a satisfactory outcome. MINI replaced the engine for free, and I am very grateful for that! IMHO, this is a serious design flaw. Look at it any way you will, but when a plastic piece on a vacuum pump can break and blow up the entire engine? Really, people- c'mon. Those of you who are not getting taken care of need to keep fighting. MINI will do what is right, but you will have to work them nearly to death.
#69
09-22-2011, 08:04 PM
2007 S with 58,000 miles- and my engine blew, just as described in this thread by oldMGguy and WPskier. Yes, my oil was low- I was following dealer's instructions, waiting for the computer prompt. Bad move on my part. It took nearly 4 months of haggling with my local dealer, MINIUSA and various insurance folks... but I did get a satisfactory outcome. MINI replaced the engine for free, and I am very grateful for that! IMHO, this is a serious design flaw. Look at it any way you will, but when a plastic piece on a vacuum pump can break and blow up the entire engine? Really, people- c'mon. Those of you who are not getting taken care of need to keep fighting. MINI will do what is right, but you will have to work them nearly to death.
The dealer wants you to wait for the computer to tell you WHEN to get the oil changed...not when to add oil. The owner is responsible for maintaing fluid levels between service intervals.
#70
09-22-2011, 10:11 PM
#71
12-09-2011, 08:50 AM
Design flaw?
The engines are not blowing up because they are low on oil. The engines are destructing because a plastic piece that costs less than a dollar will break with little provocation. Connecting that piece directly to the cam with no engineered protection is a major design flaw.
I love my Mini as much as anyone, but you apologists have got to stop "drinking the Kool-Aid" on this issue. There is absolutely no rationale for designing an engine so that a cheap piece of plastic can cause the whole thing to disintegrate; no rationale under any circumstance.
I love my Mini as much as anyone, but you apologists have got to stop "drinking the Kool-Aid" on this issue. There is absolutely no rationale for designing an engine so that a cheap piece of plastic can cause the whole thing to disintegrate; no rationale under any circumstance.
#72
12-09-2011, 09:06 AM
The engines are not blowing up because they are low on oil. The engines are destructing because a plastic piece that costs less than a dollar will break with little provocation. Connecting that piece directly to the cam with no engineered protection is a major design flaw.
I love my Mini as much as anyone, but you apologists have got to stop "drinking the Kool-Aid" on this issue. There is absolutely no rationale for designing an engine so that a cheap piece of plastic can cause the whole thing to disintegrate; no rationale under any circumstance.
I love my Mini as much as anyone, but you apologists have got to stop "drinking the Kool-Aid" on this issue. There is absolutely no rationale for designing an engine so that a cheap piece of plastic can cause the whole thing to disintegrate; no rationale under any circumstance.
#73
12-09-2011, 09:29 AM
The engines are not blowing up because they are low on oil. The engines are destructing because a plastic piece that costs less than a dollar will break with little provocation. Connecting that piece directly to the cam with no engineered protection is a major design flaw.
I love my Mini as much as anyone, but you apologists have got to stop "drinking the Kool-Aid" on this issue. There is absolutely no rationale for designing an engine so that a cheap piece of plastic can cause the whole thing to disintegrate; no rationale under any circumstance.
I love my Mini as much as anyone, but you apologists have got to stop "drinking the Kool-Aid" on this issue. There is absolutely no rationale for designing an engine so that a cheap piece of plastic can cause the whole thing to disintegrate; no rationale under any circumstance.
My Geo Metro convertible (1.0L 3-cyclinder) went 250,000km trouble free miles before I sold it - I almost always drove it at its MAXIMUM SPEED of 90 mph when on the highway (obviously faster downhill).
There is no excuse for NOT REMEDYING (either through repair or hassle-free reimbursement) the design of an engine that consumes 1L of oil every 800 miles, and has several (HPFP, timing belt tensioner) serious flaws related to the oil levels (if that is true) - and no excuse for routine MISINFORMATION and DENIAL and OBFUSCATION of owner's efforts - well there is one excuse: you make more money this way - SHAME on MINI/BMW!
#74
12-09-2011, 09:34 AM
Having said that - when my HPFP went and my car died for the second time (see my prior posts) after I prepared my case on social media (YouTube Video, Twitter account, etc.) I was treated extremely well by New Country MINI - and got what I consider to be a very good trade-in price (the only ethical action on my part - DO NOT LET YOUR FRIEND'S BUY A 2007 MCS!!!!) on my new 2012 BASE Cooper (and an unexpected here is another $500 off and an even lower 2.9% rate on your loan - when we already had a signed, confirmed deal).
#75
12-09-2011, 09:45 AM
Shame on them...Totally agree with you, but you can not possibly compare the efficiency/power of the N14 engine with the metro-crap. It's oranges to apples.
I am frustrated as well when a faulty part needs to be paid at my own expense, but hell, this is a 300bhp capable engine combined with high mpg when you are driving conservatively.
Think again...reasonably!
I am frustrated as well when a faulty part needs to be paid at my own expense, but hell, this is a 300bhp capable engine combined with high mpg when you are driving conservatively.
Think again...reasonably!