On my 08, the oil filter housing started leaking before the waterpump. Since it is located right next to the turbo oil line (where the line attaches to the block), it makes sense to replace the filter housing gasket when replacing the turbo oil line. It is a pretty good sized job, removing the heat shields and downpipe to get to that area.

Mike

 

Can't say with certainty, but every 55k miles would be my best guess. I don't see any material improvements with the new gasket I put on the oil filter housing. So, I'd put it in the same category as the turbo oil line fitting. Hopefully, the water pump housing going to metal makes some difference in seal life, somehow....

 

They said it was a "massive leak". I'm going through 1.5 quarts every 1200 miles if that gives you any kind of indication. They werent able to get it fixed that day and I'm still waiting for a estimate on how much they are gonna charge me to replace everything. My rear brakes started grinding pretty nasty yesterday as well. Its been a fun few months... walnut blasting....front wilwoods...valve cover....front endlinks... tires... headlight bulbs....serpentine belt...alignment. Just waiting to see whats next on the agenda.

 

Water pump just seemed like it was a small leak... a few drips on the half shaft. And I thought the water pump was replaced last year when I hit a animal... but that was the auxiliary water pump that was replaced. Just my luck lol. I never put the heat shields back on the car when I did the turbo oil line or the downpipe. I know I should've but hopefully it'll make it easier to do both the filter housing and water pump. Figured it was a good 5-6 hr job for the filter housing. Just waiting on them to contact me back about a quote. Seem to be taking their sweet *** time though. May also have a buddy of mine do the install of both as well. You dont really need any special tools or anything from what I saw... more time consuming than anything right?

 

The worst part is getting the heat shields off. Since you have a catless DP, there should be a bunch more room to get at stuff. With no heat shields, it should be a 2 hour job, maybe less. No special tools required. Just plan on an oil change because you are opening up coolant and oil passages right next to each other, and you can't guarantee that no coolant went into the oil.

I would inspect the valve cover as well, I have read that some guys had issues running without heat shields and the cover burned a hole in it, causing another oil leak.

My oil usage also went down when I replaced the valve cover, because they have improved the PCV system since our 08's were made.

Good luck,
Mike

 

Yeah I actually replaced the valve cover a few months ago. Today I was on my way to my parents place for our Thanksgiving and all of sudden the car started idling really really rough and started almost sounding like a Subaru. Could this be caused by the water pump going out? Shut the car off and waited maybe 10 minutes and restarted it and it seemed like it was having a hard time starting. It started but idles really really low...400 500 rpms at most.

 

Edit...using my torque pro app i have a p0302 p0300 and p0304 code referring to misfire in cylinder 2 and 4 and multiple misfires. Switched over 2 of the coil packs to see if it's a coil pack problem but still the same codes. Gonna try switching out the plugs and see what comes of it. I just replaced the plugs maybe 15k miles ago.

 

Another update.... I have called 5 of the big box "automotive" stores here in town. Not 1 of them has plugs that fit the car in stock. Pretty ridiculous if you ask me. Why does everything have to be so damn specialized? They are spark plugs for crying out loud.

 

I just saw this morning that someone selling through amazon has them for about $25/set. Not that it helps you today...

Mike

 

Wow! Thats an awesome deal! Were they brand new or used? I called advance auto parts again and they said they had some E3 spark plugs in stock for the car. So I got some. Went to put them in and they wouldnt even thread into the block. Wouldnt even fit the 12 point 14mm socket. Then I asked about just ordering the NGK 5992's and they could only order 1 of them total. Said they were back ordered. So I had to order Denso SXU22HCR11S plugs for the car. Would of just gotten the NGK's from Amazon but didnt really wanna wait till Thursday to get the plugs and not pay 30 bux for overnight shipping.

 

I just had my oil filter housing gasket and thermostat housing replaced at dealer for a quoted $1600. It appears to have done the trick. Seems that a remote oil filter connected to a permanent boss of some sort, and a metal thermostat housing, would have prevented the problem. Just over 61K on odometer on my '10 R56.

 

WOW! Yeah I just got off the phone with a local shop and they quoted me 961.xx to do the oil filter housing and water pump... oil change and coolant flush. This forum has taught me to never really go to the dealership for any kind of work as all they do is jacked up the prices. Plus the nearest dealership to me is 2.5 hrs away. But to give another update... got the denso SXU22HCR11S plugs from advance auto parts and now those wont even thread into the block. Too big for the 14mm socket and wont even begin to thread in. The NGK's fit perfectly. Guess Ill have to take these back and just tell them to forget it and order them from Amazon. Sucks cause the car is running like crap and cant really not be without a car for extended period of time.

 

That's a lot better than SkyWriter's price, almost $1000 more!

 

Thats a dealership for ya!

Finally got the plugs and installed them. The p0304 I was getting is no longer present but still have the p0302 code even after clearing it 2-3 times and going through whatever "duty cycle" the ECU would need to clear the code. Car idles a lot better but is still misfiring on cylinder 2. From the list I've found that could be related to the CEL... could be...

1. Plugs.... just changed. They looked extremely rough exceptionally on cylinder 2. Was pretty black. The rest of the plugs had a brown color to them. I replaced them before I got the car walnut blasted.

2. Coil Pack.... switched over coil pack from cylinder 1 to cylinder 2 and still got the same p0302 code.

3. O2 Sensor.... how could this cause only cylinder 2 to misfire? Possible Cause?

4. Fuel Injector... can a fuel injector just fail mid drive? One minute its fine... then the next it fails? I've seafoamed the car a few times in the 2 years Ive had it... doesnt that clean the injectors? Also had the car walnut blasted back in August or September. Since this happened... I'm getting terrible MPG... off by at least 5mpg and a very strong gas smell. Car kinda sounds like a Subaru with that boxer rumble.

5. Poor Compression.... hoping to god this isnt it.

6. Burnt exhaust valve.... no idea how this can happen.

Any other ideas for me to consider? Its literally been 1 thing after the next the last few months. Getting very tiring.

 

What's your mileage DRoc7822?

 

79,500

 

Still trying to figure this out. The P0300 and P0304 codes returned today. The coil packs have been ruled out and so have the spark plugs. Bought a thing of the Chevron fuel injector cleaner stuff and threw it in the gas tank on the way home tonight to see if maybe that could help the problem. I'm still clinging to the possibility that hopefully its an injector that has failed. But not sure of how much truth could be to that.

I also uploaded a picture of the plugs that I took out of the car before putting the new set in. Plugs have anywhere from 15k to 17,500 miles on them.

Was also wondering if maybe this could be fuel pump related in anyway? In the 50k miles that Ive had the car... Ive never changed or needed to change the HPFP in the car. And I know these are a issue with the car. Dont really seem to be having any kind of stalling when I first start the car or anything.

Another thing is that the Check Engine Light started flashing today when the P0300 and P0304 codes came back. Will flash for a few seconds and then stop.

Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

For what its worth, I had a leak in the exact same spot. It was coming from the oil filter housing and oil cooler assembly. I replaced all those O-rings. It was a good time to replace the turbo oil feed and drain lines as well. I had done the oil pan separately as well, thats where I originally thought it had come from, but was wrong. Glad I did because I found pieces of the original timing guide in there from a previous dealership doing a terrible job.

You need to buy a scan gauge, they can now read the Fuel Rail Pressure (which will tell you if the HPFP is failing). I imagine with only 1 plug looking that rich, it's not the pump; that would show up across the entire bank. I suspect you just have carbon buildup and need to have the valves blasted clean. I just had it done and the car is worlds different and loads more responsive. The #2 intake runner was by far the dirtiest on my car, I think its probably the shortest run and therefore sucks the most sludge onto the valves. Seriously can't believe the difference, after 2 years and 35k miles I can finally kick back and rest until the timing chain, water pump or HPFP grenades....since EVERYTHING else that could fail has done so by now lol

 

Final update on this... Got a compression test done today and the news was not good. 0 to 40psi in cylinder 2. Guy said he was pretty confident that I have a burned exhaust valve. Looking at my options right now. Not a good day in the car world today.

 

Well, you don't have many options other than pull the head. If you don't fix it, your $10000 car is worth about $1500.

If you pull the head, then you can see if it truly is a valve. If it is, then you can repair it. If its a worn bore, broken piston land, or something similar, you are probably better off installing a new long block.

Sorry it has been a rough couple of months for you.

Mike

 

I'm a bit suspicious about 0 psi in cylinder #2, your never mentioned anything about rough idling or a rough running engine just an oil leak. I have seen broken valves before where just a small piece broke off the edge (like this) if it really is low compression.

 

Yeah I was just driving along on a back road going out to my parents for our Thanksgiving. Tried getting into boost a little bit. Really not into the car at all. Felt like it was struggling so I let off... and then thats when it started idling really rough. Got to my parents... and pulled the codes via the torque app and said misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 and multiple misfire.

Kinda been all over the map emotion wise with this. Relieved for some reason.... then sad... then confused on why now it decides to do it. A mere 2-3 months after my extended warranty expires. Very shitty situation across the board really. Like it was waiting for it to expire and then BAM!!!

Right now I'm prolly just gonna take everything I can off the car. Get a new/different engine sometime down the line. Get a beater to drive right now and see what happens.

 

And I just wanted to say a BIIIIIGGGGGG!!! thank you to mbwicz for all of your help since Ive had the car.

 

Curious to hear what some peoples opinions are on parting the entire car out? I still owe a good amount... north of over 10 grand on the car and the thought of spending another 4-5 grand on the car to then try and trade it in/sell it to only get kicked in the face again with the negative equity thats on the car doesnt really seem like something I wanna do. What would some of you guys do if you were in my situation?

 

I still think that you need to pull the head. You can pull the turbo and intake off, the tricky part is timing the cams. If it really is a bad valve, then get the head rebuilt and drive it. If the head is fine and you find scoring (or a bad piston) in one cylinder, then you are looking at $4k for a long block.

I really doubt that you would get more than about $4k for the car if you parted it out. I think that finding a burned valve would be the best news that you can have.

You may want to reach out to Way. I know that he has some MINI's that he has been parting out over the years, he may be able to give you some idea of the value of your car.

Mike