R50/53 Specs of a Mini Cooper Engine Jcw Long Block Oem R52 R53
#1
Specs of a Mini Cooper Engine Jcw Long Block Oem R52 R53
Looking for anyone that might know the exact specs of what goes into a "Mini Cooper Engine Jcw Long Block Oem R52 R53" remanufactured engine... What comes with it? JCW injectors, stock Rods and pistons? what exactly is on the rebuilt factory JCW engine... Trying to decide if I should swap a stock Cooper S (2003) with one of these and if so what comes with it - does the JCW Supercharger come as part of this - there does't seem to be a lot of detail on what is on the engine? Or do I go the rebuild route? with after market Head from RMW or the like?
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
#2
My understanding is there are only small differences. The block, bearings, pistons, etc being the same.
I'd be surprised if it came with it, the supercharger is the same but comes with a 10-11% pulley (to compare, here are lots of aftermarket in the 15-19% range) and the head has slightly larger exhaust valves. JCW does have the 380cc injectors, but I don't think that's part of a long block. I assume you wouldn't get the JCW tune either with the long block, so you would still want to pay someone for a tune.
I'd be surprised if it came with it, the supercharger is the same but comes with a 10-11% pulley (to compare, here are lots of aftermarket in the 15-19% range) and the head has slightly larger exhaust valves. JCW does have the 380cc injectors, but I don't think that's part of a long block. I assume you wouldn't get the JCW tune either with the long block, so you would still want to pay someone for a tune.
#3
David - Thanks for the points - still looking and trying to decide whether to rebuild from scratch or replace with refurbished JCW long block, or SneedSpeed rebuild engine... http://www.sneed4speed.com/mini-s-r5...k-race-engine/
Okeeton
Okeeton
#5
Issues with the engine turned out to be many as we started down the rebuild path. Cam is shot as are some of the rockers. A skirt on the number 3 piston was broken off and in the bottom of the oil pan. Exhaust valves in number 1 & 2 cycliners were not in good shape either...
So a rebuilt head/cam is on its way from Jan at RMW with new rods and pistons. A numbers of other things being updated or replaced as part of the project. I'm hoping to breath new life into my 12 yr old S. Hopefully reassembly begins this weekend.
Cheers and thanks for the interest David
So a rebuilt head/cam is on its way from Jan at RMW with new rods and pistons. A numbers of other things being updated or replaced as part of the project. I'm hoping to breath new life into my 12 yr old S. Hopefully reassembly begins this weekend.
Cheers and thanks for the interest David
#6
Two hard lessons from my rebuild project I will share:
1) Be careful around the oil sprayers (they spray oil under the piston skirt). The new ones are different than the original ones. So after damaging one, I had to buy a set of 4. (Note: They are shared with other BMW engines, so I found them cheaper from a BMW dealer).
2) The engine computer had adapted to its hard life - after rebuilding everything and firing it up, the exhaust manifold turned red from all the sudden improvements. So... Clear all your engine adaptations before starting up after your rebuild and watch it carefully during the first startup.
And a good suggestion I found along the way:
3) Pull the fuse for the fuel pump and release the pressure in the fuel system before trying to crank it (pulling the fuse is not enough, it will hold enough pressure to start, then die). Then, when you first start your rebuilt engine, let it crank a little bit to distribute oil and build oil pressure. Then put the fuse back and try to start it.
1) Be careful around the oil sprayers (they spray oil under the piston skirt). The new ones are different than the original ones. So after damaging one, I had to buy a set of 4. (Note: They are shared with other BMW engines, so I found them cheaper from a BMW dealer).
2) The engine computer had adapted to its hard life - after rebuilding everything and firing it up, the exhaust manifold turned red from all the sudden improvements. So... Clear all your engine adaptations before starting up after your rebuild and watch it carefully during the first startup.
And a good suggestion I found along the way:
3) Pull the fuse for the fuel pump and release the pressure in the fuel system before trying to crank it (pulling the fuse is not enough, it will hold enough pressure to start, then die). Then, when you first start your rebuilt engine, let it crank a little bit to distribute oil and build oil pressure. Then put the fuse back and try to start it.
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