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OK, so the JBE has a relay (I01068)that switches power to the amp. The $64K question is when does it turn power on and off?
May not be necessary to run a wire from pin 13 of the radio.
I've traced it a couple of times, and it looks like Pin 13 from the radio goes ends up at Pin 10 of the amplifier. Again, I'll have to get a multimeter out to verify; but if that's the case... it completes the requirements to put a differrent amp in place of the HiFi. Biggest question at that point would be: What's the effect of not having a component in the CAN bus? It looks like it runs in parallel, but I don't know if the system will be "looking" for the amp.
What's confusing me is that "The amplifier has a separate power supply. The amplifier is switched on by the RAD_ON signal from the ASK (> 8 V = ON / < 6 V = OFF)."
It does go to pin 10 of the amp. I missed that page. Here it is
The CAN bus is usually terminated in the harness (120 ohm resistor at each end), rather than in any module. Disconnecting the amp shouldn't cause the bus to become unstable. If the radio doesn't like it, maybe it could be recoded by the dealer.
Quote:
What's confusing me is that "The amplifier has a separate power supply. The amplifier is switched on by the RAD_ON signal from the ASK (> 8 V = ON / < 6 V = OFF)."
So while on the topic of trying to figure out the proper pins for amps... I don't have the Hi-Fi system seeing as I figured I would end up replacing most of the system eventually. I know that mikethemini does full system replacements over the pond, but I am trying to figure out how to do the same thing to my Mini. I've got it narrowed down to an amp in the place of the DSC foam block and speakers in the doors using the stock wires (not desired, but the only real way to do it). My only question is how to take off enough of the center console to get to the back side of the radio to tap into the connector or use one of Mike's special connectors? I know it is pretty involved, but that seems to be the only method for for getting a signal on the stock non-HiFi system correct? Any recommendations on where to look for removing the dash?
Thanks.
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2007 MCS Dark Silver/Black Roof, Automatic, Premium Package, Anthracite Headliner, Redwood Red Lounge Leather, White Turn Signals
That's kinda what I was worried about. I was hoping that someone had some input/experience on taking the dash apart to get to the connector on the back of the head unit.
I'll be set once I can get that figured out.
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2007 MCS Dark Silver/Black Roof, Automatic, Premium Package, Anthracite Headliner, Redwood Red Lounge Leather, White Turn Signals
MM,
I am looking to replace my speakers but i would like a little more endorsement from you. The HiFi setup sounds good to me. the problem is that i like loud music. And i like to drive with the roof open. I find that i need to keep the volume down because of the distortion in the higher frequencies. low frequency distortion is probably there as well but i cant detect it due to the wind noise.
My goal in replacing the speakers would be volume. Will the focals do that for me? i will be using the stock amp and capacitor on the tweeter as you had first done before the new amp.
eventually, i amy also tear apart the back so that i can get to the amp and i will disconnect the rear tweeter wires. (to keep the soundstage forward). it would be interesting to throw in some 6x9 midbass drivers....
thanks
(still waiting for skuzzy to give an opinion of the focals from the stock HiFi amp!)
You'll be happy with the front focals in place of the stock speakers. They go alot louder before distorting although there is distortion at the really high end (relative to stock) due to the amp running out of juice. The front focals will give more midbass by themselves than the complete hi-fi system including the 6x9's in the back.
The last I heard from skuzzy is that it sems to be monsoon season where he lives and hasn't stopped raining long enough for him to install them.
Although I have the focal 6x9s in the back running off the stock amp there may be a better choice since there are no highs going to the 6x9s. I read somewhere where someone used MDF to make a plate to cover the 6x9 hole and made a cutout for a 6" midbass driver. You might be able to do the same thing for a 7" (if you can find one). Look for one with a high db per watt level since the amp only pushs 40 watts to them (and distorts at that wattage).
If I didn't bridge my 4 channel amp to the front focals I would have had the amp powering the 6x9s also and I'm sure they'd rock a LOT more than they do. I think I like it more with twice the power going up front though.
The focals really shine with 100w+ per channel going to them.
thank you. I am also considering the less expensive JL audio 3 way set. and these http://www.theautophile.com/products...sNavFrame.html
for the rear. (i really wont be getting these due to price, availability and my fear of tearing apart the rear to get to them....
kookmyers - Since price seems to be somewhat of an issue for you; get into the tone menu and try turning the bass down a bit (-1 or 2), and fading a little to the rear (3 or 4). I think you'll be surprised how loud the HiFi can get (and still maintain decent punch). Bass takes a lot of wattage, but the highs are the first to really show the amp is clipping.
Adding better speakers will do a little for clarity, but not really volume. The HiFi amp still only makes so much power. If volume is what you're after (and the settings above don't work for you); you might consider upgrading the amp first. It's a whole lot harder to blow a mediocre speaker with a powerful amp than it is to blow a good speaker with a crappy amp.
Rule of thumb is:
Bigger amp if you want it loud,
Better speakers if you want it clear,
Both if you want it loud and clear.
Good advice.
I have stock speakers on my 2003 MC.
Right front bass/mid-range was blown by prior owner, probably by overdriving.
As I can find no affordable, precice (5 ohm?, what the devil?) 15 watt speaker, I tried a DIY: dismantled the unit, set on a vertical and sparingly RTV'd bass/mid-range paper cone to join together the rent.
Post install, still had minor scratch at higher amplitudes, but just re-biased to favor driver balance and some front fade, with -1 bass overall.
Oh yeah, stopped playing NIN and switched to Bach.
Cheapest fix I could live with, short of going to the dealer for an OEM replacement, if possible.
Look, it helped having served with the artillery, so this fix may not be for all.
O.K. I know nothing about a stereo system but I do know that my new Mini has poor quality sound from its standard stereo. So, I’m already looking into new speakers. I went to a recommended local shop here in Vegas and they suggested JBL or JL component speakers in the front and replacing the back speakers too. My question is this: Do I really need to replace the back speakers? The shop says I’ll be happier if I do but I just don’t know. The total cost for everything is $400.00(including tax) and without the upgraded back speakers its $185.00. Thanks in advance for the advice.[/FONT]
The total cost for everything is $400.00 (including tax) and without the upgraded back speakers its $185.00 ... Thanks in advance for the advice.
My parts-only cost for doing my own fronts (one pair each JL Audio TR400-CXi and TR650-CXi) was $168, and was a couple of hours of my labor total -- so $185 sounds very reasonable. A pair of good 6x9s for the rear will cost another $150-ish, so $400 total to have someone else do all six speakers sounds really reasonable, especially considering the labor hassle of having to remove almost everything behind the front seats to get to the two rear speakers.
I've been very happy with the huge improvement from "fronts-only-replacement" for a few weeks now ... but I WILL replace the rears eventually, once I get a full Saturday to do it the way I want it done (and that's just an engineer-thing ...)
BASIL: 2007 MCS BRG/B 6sp: various electronic and suspension enhancements, Whalen SM; less chrome, more black, WAYBETTER speakers, and tow hitch! ... Chicago MINI Motoring Club ... Milwaukee MINIs ... High Plains Motoring Society
I've been very happy with the huge improvement from "fronts-only-replacement" for a few weeks now ... but I WILL replace the rears eventually, once I get a full Saturday to do it the way I want it done (and that's just an engineer-thing ...)
Got my chance to finish the job and do the rear 6x9s ... WOW, again
I was scrounging in my basement and discovered a really nice pair of barely-used Boston RX87s: 40W four-ohm two-way 5x7s ... sooooo, I started thinking, and found a guy who sold me some "speaker-adapters" -- a pair of plastic rings to take my 5x7s up to the 6x9 holes (see the gallery)
THAT should hold me for quite a while now.
Thanks to all who contributed here -- you helped make it an easy three-hour job.
(and see http://www.mjmautoinnovations.com/ for the adaptors.)
BASIL: 2007 MCS BRG/B 6sp: various electronic and suspension enhancements, Whalen SM; less chrome, more black, WAYBETTER speakers, and tow hitch! ... Chicago MINI Motoring Club ... Milwaukee MINIs ... High Plains Motoring Society
can anyone tell me with the base system (non hifi) has all the speaker wires running along one side of the car.. or if they run along both sides of the car into the HU? If that is the case what is the easiest way to tap into the wires so that you can connect an 4ch amp to it?
Dose this apply to the stock boost systems front speakers too? if so that would be awesome, i would really like to replace the stock front two with higher end ones, anyone know if after market speakers will hook right up to the minis plugs for the speakers? if anyone has other pics that he left out that would be great, other than that great job.
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Alice "Cooper" - Picked up 5-28-08
MCSa Chili Red, Black Roof, Black stirpes, Premium package, Hi-Fi, 17" Crown spokes, Cold weather package, Lounge leather black, Rooster red color line, Piano black trim, Chrome line interior, Bluetooth, USB input.
MM,
You have a 2 amp system in the mini now. one amp under the passenger seat that is driving your front component speakers (with the aftermarket crossovers) and one in the right hand boot compartment for the subwoofer. I am wondering if your rear 6x9s are operational, and if so, how they get powered. I assume the front and the rear line level inputs are fed into the converter which would leave nothing for the factory amp. Did the installer split the signal?
this is probably already mentioned, but where are the front crossovers installed?
Does the sub box use the space that the tool kit is normally placed in?
thanks
MM,
You have a 2 amp system in the mini now. one amp under the passenger seat that is driving your front component speakers (with the aftermarket crossovers) and one in the right hand boot compartment for the subwoofer. I am wondering if your rear 6x9s are operational, and if so, how they get powered. I assume the front and the rear line level inputs are fed into the converter which would leave nothing for the factory amp. Did the installer split the signal?
this is probably already mentioned, but where are the front crossovers installed?
Does the sub box use the space that the tool kit is normally placed in?
thanks
The 6x9's in the back are being powered off the stock amp. The high-low converter feeding the amps is being fed from only the front speaker input to the stock amp.
The focal crossovers are mounted under the dash.
I keep the fader on my radio at about 4 bars to the front for a couple reasons. One is that I want to keep the sound stage up front. The other is at high volume with the fader in the middle the stock amp runs out of juice to feed the 6x9's and the SQ from them goes down. So the 6x9's are mainly just for a little rear fill and if I have passengers sitting in the back seat.
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Originally Posted by a96bimmerm3
The sub in the false floor looks pretty wicked, I couldn't imagine there being enough airspace down there for a decent sound though...
I'm not sure if "down there" meant in the back or under the seat.
The Boston G1 10" calls for a minimum of .5' airspace. The box I have has about .7'
now a false floor under the passenger seat would be extremely tight. Maybe could make one for a high quality 6" sub.
Laser Blue/White MCS delivered 3/8/07. Off lease 5/17/09.
Hybrid Mode
