Navigation & Audio R56 speaker replacement how-to
#51
This thread gives fairly detailed instructions:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=95211
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=95211
#52
hk system
hi, i have a 03 s and my speakers are starting to vibrate horribly in the front doors. how do i replace them, meaning what is compatible with the hk system. someone has a pair of mb quart speakers for sale that i would love to install and they are 5.25" but are 4 ohm speakers. is it possible to use them when the original speakers are 2 ohm.
thanks,
confused about power
thanks,
confused about power
#54
hi, i have a 03 s and my speakers are starting to vibrate horribly in the front doors. how do i replace them, meaning what is compatible with the hk system. someone has a pair of mb quart speakers for sale that i would love to install and they are 5.25" but are 4 ohm speakers. is it possible to use them when the original speakers are 2 ohm.
thanks,
confused about power
thanks,
confused about power
Yes, you can use 4 ohm speakers instead of two ohm. Just don't try a 2 ohm speaker where there used to be a 4 ohm.
The same!
#55
#56
#58
Unless the amp is designed to work with a 2 ohm load you will draw more current through the amp than it can handle. The extra current will cause the amp to overheat and "meltdown".
Conversely a 4 ohm load on an amp designed to be able to handle a 2 ohm load will draw less current and the amp will run cooler.
#62
Amp installed!
I had a pro shop install a boston gt-40 amp in my MINI yesterday. Great news for those who like stealth installs - under the passenger seat carpet there is a large hole kinda like the one the tool box sits in in the boot. It normally has a large peice of styrofoam in it. The shop cut the carpet (neatly) and took out the foam. The amp which is 14" long fit easily in the hole! The amp does not sit any higher than the carpet was originally so that mean full movement range for the seat.
The amp is specced for 4x45w @ 4ohm. I had originally planned power both the front and back speakers off it. However, the shop recommended I bridge the amp and only power the fronts from it to get ~90wattsx2 since the frontspeakers are rated for about 100w rms (and leave the back 6x9's powered off the stock amp). Since I was already concerned that 45w wouldn't be enough I took his advice. I'm glad I did. When I went back to the shop about an hour before the install was finished I was reading through the owners manual for the amp. When bridged it is not 90x2 as I was expecting. It is 145w RMS x 2 @4ohm!! That is plenty power to get the speakers VERY loud without distortion. The focal speakers are known for being able to handle well above their rated power. I also had the shop install deflex pads behind the front 6" drivers - research them. They are worth it.
The install took the shop about 12 hours total over a couple days as they had to trace out all the stock wiring to figure out inputs/outputs at the hifi amp. They also installed an very nice speaker level to low RCA signal converter since the amp didn't have signal level inputs on it. Everything is very stealth. Just by looking you can't see any signs of an aftermarket stereo (except through the speaker grills!).
Now how does it sound? awesome! First it will get very loud without disortion, midbass is incredible and thumps very hard- maybe I should say it attacks! mids and highs just sound sweet. The music is very detailed - you can hear stuff you may not have heard before except on really good headphones. It doesn't fatigue your ears even after playing loud for quite awhile (edit: set the tweeters to -6 db in the crossover or your ears will bleed). I've listened to a range of music so far from classical to jazz to rock to Ministry. During the song "stigmata" by ministry there are a couple sections where the drummer goes off on a double bass drum - rapidly kicking the crap out of them. My jaw dropped when I heard it. You can hear some decent low bass but I still plan on adding a 10" sub and another amp to the boot to get the really lows louder.
The two subs I'm researching at the moment are the rockford fosgate f3sd210 and the boston acoustics G1 - both are shallow mount low air space subs. I'll probably mount it in a false floor to keep my storage space. Gut instinct tells me the BA would be the better choice just because I'm not a huge fan of RF. For the amp I'm thinking of the boston gt-20. It puts out 165w rms x 1 @4 ohm or 220 rms x1 @ 2ohm which should be sufficient. It's also small enough to mount hidden in the passenger side boot panel.
after researching it looks like I'm going to go with the Boston Acoustic 10" G1. It goes down to 24 hz and the sensitivity is a bit higher than the RF sub.
The amp is specced for 4x45w @ 4ohm. I had originally planned power both the front and back speakers off it. However, the shop recommended I bridge the amp and only power the fronts from it to get ~90wattsx2 since the frontspeakers are rated for about 100w rms (and leave the back 6x9's powered off the stock amp). Since I was already concerned that 45w wouldn't be enough I took his advice. I'm glad I did. When I went back to the shop about an hour before the install was finished I was reading through the owners manual for the amp. When bridged it is not 90x2 as I was expecting. It is 145w RMS x 2 @4ohm!! That is plenty power to get the speakers VERY loud without distortion. The focal speakers are known for being able to handle well above their rated power. I also had the shop install deflex pads behind the front 6" drivers - research them. They are worth it.
The install took the shop about 12 hours total over a couple days as they had to trace out all the stock wiring to figure out inputs/outputs at the hifi amp. They also installed an very nice speaker level to low RCA signal converter since the amp didn't have signal level inputs on it. Everything is very stealth. Just by looking you can't see any signs of an aftermarket stereo (except through the speaker grills!).
Now how does it sound? awesome! First it will get very loud without disortion, midbass is incredible and thumps very hard- maybe I should say it attacks! mids and highs just sound sweet. The music is very detailed - you can hear stuff you may not have heard before except on really good headphones. It doesn't fatigue your ears even after playing loud for quite awhile (edit: set the tweeters to -6 db in the crossover or your ears will bleed). I've listened to a range of music so far from classical to jazz to rock to Ministry. During the song "stigmata" by ministry there are a couple sections where the drummer goes off on a double bass drum - rapidly kicking the crap out of them. My jaw dropped when I heard it. You can hear some decent low bass but I still plan on adding a 10" sub and another amp to the boot to get the really lows louder.
The two subs I'm researching at the moment are the rockford fosgate f3sd210 and the boston acoustics G1 - both are shallow mount low air space subs. I'll probably mount it in a false floor to keep my storage space. Gut instinct tells me the BA would be the better choice just because I'm not a huge fan of RF. For the amp I'm thinking of the boston gt-20. It puts out 165w rms x 1 @4 ohm or 220 rms x1 @ 2ohm which should be sufficient. It's also small enough to mount hidden in the passenger side boot panel.
after researching it looks like I'm going to go with the Boston Acoustic 10" G1. It goes down to 24 hz and the sensitivity is a bit higher than the RF sub.
Last edited by MotorMouth; 05-31-2007 at 04:47 PM.
#63
You might also take a look at some of the subs at Elemental Designs. They make a new shallow mount sub that would work perfectly in a false floor application.
One question. On your install did they run new speaker wire into the door or did they just use the stock wiring? I'm interested in doing an install in my car in the hopefully not to distant future but have no idea how I would effectively run the wires into the doors.
Thanks.
One question. On your install did they run new speaker wire into the door or did they just use the stock wiring? I'm interested in doing an install in my car in the hopefully not to distant future but have no idea how I would effectively run the wires into the doors.
Thanks.
#64
I had a pro shop install a boston gt-40 amp in my MINI yesterday. Great news for those who like stealth installs - under the passenger seat carpet there is a large hole kinda like the one the tool box sits in in the boot. It normally has a large peice of styrofoam in it.
#65
speaker wires - new wire ran to tweeter. new wire ran to somewhere under dash to crossovers. stock wire from crossovers to mid/woofer in door. I didn't hook them up so I'm not sure exactly where they run.
nope, I don't have dsc. I'm the one who suggested DSC might have something to do with that box, remember?
I do/did have the HiFi. no nav system. custom white viper stripes =)
nope, I don't have dsc. I'm the one who suggested DSC might have something to do with that box, remember?
I do/did have the HiFi. no nav system. custom white viper stripes =)
Last edited by MotorMouth; 05-31-2007 at 11:18 PM.
#66
Very nice MM. I am finally getting to prep for my installation. Found out Mini/BMW does not sell or allow ordering a Service/Technical Reference Manual for the car. That sucks huge.
Going to make it a bit more difficult to do many of the things I want to do. Hehe, a bit more difficult is an understatement. I'll have to weigh the risks of breaking stuff against the vaule it might add now. What a pisser!
I have had a service manual for every new car I have ever owned and took it for granted I would be able to order one.
Going to make it a bit more difficult to do many of the things I want to do. Hehe, a bit more difficult is an understatement. I'll have to weigh the risks of breaking stuff against the vaule it might add now. What a pisser!
I have had a service manual for every new car I have ever owned and took it for granted I would be able to order one.
#68
#71
Has anyone figured out the wiring? What I'd like to do is replace the HiFi amp, but use the same wires that run to it. I figure I can take the line level input, hook it to a bigger amp (or a JL Cleansweep), run the output to the crossovers, and then run the crossover output back into the stock speaker loom.
#72
Has anyone figured out the wiring? What I'd like to do is replace the HiFi amp, but use the same wires that run to it. I figure I can take the line level input, hook it to a bigger amp (or a JL Cleansweep), run the output to the crossovers, and then run the crossover output back into the stock speaker loom.
sure someone does -
the pro shop I had install my level converter and amp.. also - mikeythemini (who is also a pro installer)
of course I paid them a pretty penny for the job and they kept the schematics. took them several hours to trace all the wiring.
good luck getting the pro's to give you the schematics. it's what keeps them in business.
#73
Last edited by oPossum; 06-15-2007 at 12:49 AM.
#74
#75
looks like pics from the bmw service manual. now if we just knew what all the color codes meant...
what does this let us do?