JCW Code CC-ID29 HELP
#1
Code CC-ID29 HELP
HELP!! New to this. Recently bought 2010 JCW Cabrio. Was running fine, wound it up one day a got 1/2 CEL, but no loss of power. Had car to dealer, and diagnosed bad diverter valve. They had none in stock, so upon arriving home i ordered one. My supplier shipped the new superceded valve ( N18 ?). After installing this new valve, I find that I can run the engine up to 5-6K RPM if I am very light on the throttle, but as soon as I step right down on it, it starts to miss-fire right away. It also thru a #29 1/2 CEL code again.
As soon as the engine cools down again, I think I'll try the old valve again. I might also mention, that I removed the replacement valve after the first run, to make sure that it was properly sealed against the housing.
Any thoughts on this? Am at wits end.
As soon as the engine cools down again, I think I'll try the old valve again. I might also mention, that I removed the replacement valve after the first run, to make sure that it was properly sealed against the housing.
Any thoughts on this? Am at wits end.
#2
1/2 CELs are always frustrating because you have to have a code scanner that can read BMW specific codes instead of the normal P0 codes that someplace like Autozone can scan. Barring that, only dealers or independent BMW/MINI repair shops can read it.
As for the issue going on here, if the dealer initially traced it to be a bad diverter valve, and placed the revised design in (you still have a N14 motor, so it would have been the revised N14 diverter valve), and the issue persists, it would sound like something is off with the wastegate of the turbo.
Since they did diagnostic work, and the replacement part didn't fix the issue, I'd take it back into the dealer and say that you're having the same problem as before. It shouldn't cost anything extra as far as diagnostic fees go, and they'll be able to confirm if it's the same code, or something new this time.
As for the issue going on here, if the dealer initially traced it to be a bad diverter valve, and placed the revised design in (you still have a N14 motor, so it would have been the revised N14 diverter valve), and the issue persists, it would sound like something is off with the wastegate of the turbo.
Since they did diagnostic work, and the replacement part didn't fix the issue, I'd take it back into the dealer and say that you're having the same problem as before. It shouldn't cost anything extra as far as diagnostic fees go, and they'll be able to confirm if it's the same code, or something new this time.
#3
If they checked the turbo properly and the wastegate moved and held vacuum properly I would check vacuum hoses. Make sure they are not swollen from oil and or slip off easily. Pressure converter valve could be bad. I had a real head scratcher not long ago with a similar issue. I doubt the dealer won't charge diagnosis again because they didn't replace the part. But maybe they will waive the initial diagnosis. Call and find out.